Luweegy

The coil overs were to harsh for my liking.The DRM's are smoother ride.

AzDave47

The coilovers may have used too stiff a spring (change spring rates) or the shock part may have been adjusted too stiff for the street. When making suspension mods, you need to know enough and communicate that to the vendor so you can get a setup that really works for your tastes.

For some of us that have less knowledge, it is often better to go with a proven, non-adjustable component, like the DRM Bilsteins. I did that on one of my first SCCA Nationally competitive cars (Bilstein sports on a Datusn 510) and was pleased that I didn't have to play around with the suspension, but just drive it and get the driver working as well as the car.

GMuffley

I didn't go to a Chevy dealer, but it cost me $200 to have then installed.

Bedouin

Are the David Farmer torque specs still current for the '12-'13 GS & Z06?

Rear Shock Absorber Lower Mounting Nut 145 N·m 107 lb ft
Rear Shock Absorber Upper Mounting Bolts 30 N·m 22 lb ft

Front Shock Absorber Lower Mounting Nuts 28 N·m 21 lb ft
Front Shock Absorber Upper Mounting Nuts 26 N·m 19 lb ft

I'm also changing out brake rotors & wondering if his Caliper mounting specs are also curent;

Rear Brake Caliper Bolt (J56) 175 N·m 129 lb ft
Front Brake Caliper Bolt (J56) 175 N·m 129 lb ft

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1634366/C6Z06-Torque.pdf

AzDave47

They are good torque values. David does us a great service having these available.

hiznhrz

Thanks for the offer 383. I was only asking about the cost to install because I haven't been able to find the time to do it myself. If I were closer you'd be having company!

Bedouin

Couple items for people doing their own DRM Bilstien installs;

I spoke w/ DRM today to get an idea of how tight to torque the shock's upper bushing clamp bolts, & was told to compress the poly-bushings so they squeeze out to @ 1/8" from the outer edge of the upper & lower mounting cups (the cupped metal discs that are located above & below the poly bushings).

I noticed when pushing the rubber bump stops to the top of the shock shaft(s), they left a rubber-cement type substrate that could only be wiped off with light solvent. You want to remove that substrate to prevent it fouling the shock shaft seals.