[Z06] Car storage tips for winter...
10-24-2010, 06:35 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Car storage tips for winter...
Well winter is right around the corner, im bringing my car to my parents summer home where i have a garage to store it in (i dont have a garage for it home) What trickle charger does everyone recomend? and also what other tips do you guys do before you put the car away? It will be in storage from dec 1st-March.
10-24-2010, 07:16 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
10-25-2010, 05:17 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
I always just remove the battery for the winter - have never used a trickle charger. I've done this for 4 seasons now and still have the original battery. Just leave her set for the winter, don't try to start it every once in a while.
You may also want to throw some dryer sheets in the cabin keep mice away.
You may also want to throw some dryer sheets in the cabin keep mice away.
10-25-2010, 05:25 PM
#5
Team Owner
I always just remove the battery for the winter - have never used a trickle charger. I've done this for 4 seasons now and still have the original battery. Just leave her set for the winter, don't try to start it every once in a while.
You may also want to throw some dryer sheets in the cabin keep mice away.
You may also want to throw some dryer sheets in the cabin keep mice away.
10-25-2010, 07:47 PM
#6
Instructor
Member Since: Aug 2002
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DO NOT use a "trickle charger". They will overcharge and smoke a battery in no time. Use a float charger such as a 'Battery Tender' or CTEK. They are designed to keep the battery at full charge without cooking them.
Change oil and filter, fill fuel tank (stabilizer optional), over inflate tires a bit, cover (optional) and kiss her goodnight.
Change oil and filter, fill fuel tank (stabilizer optional), over inflate tires a bit, cover (optional) and kiss her goodnight.
10-25-2010, 08:10 PM
#7
_"SCOTT"_
DO NOT use a "trickle charger". They will overcharge and smoke a
battery in no time. Use a float charger such as a 'Battery Tender'
or CTEK. They are designed to keep the battery at full charge without
cooking them.
Change oil and filter.
Fill fuel tank (stabilizer optional).
Over inflate tires a bit.
Cover (optional) and kiss her goodnight.
battery in no time. Use a float charger such as a 'Battery Tender'
or CTEK. They are designed to keep the battery at full charge without
cooking them.
Change oil and filter.
Fill fuel tank (stabilizer optional).
Over inflate tires a bit.
Cover (optional) and kiss her goodnight.
...This covers it.
10-25-2010, 08:17 PM
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
Ctek ordered today... Oil and filter was just changed over the weekend.. So it looks like im good to go.. Going to drive her a little more over the next 2-3 weeks then its to sleep she goes 
10-25-2010, 08:24 PM
#9
I always just remove the battery for the winter - have never used a trickle charger. I've done this for 4 seasons now and still have the original battery. Just leave her set for the winter, don't try to start it every once in a while.
You may also want to throw some dryer sheets in the cabin keep mice away.
You may also want to throw some dryer sheets in the cabin keep mice away.
Some people will start up their cars ever 2-3 weeks and let it run for a 1/2 hour or so and even drive it up and down the driveway.
10-25-2010, 08:28 PM
#10
Is it best to fill the tank to prevent condesation? I always run it almost all the way out and stabile it before my last ride to make sure all the gas has some in it. Stabile only works for up to 4mo so by the time I take out the car 6mo later I dont have a full tank of bad fuel. I then fill it up before the first ride and add isopropoline. Is my thinking wrong?
10-25-2010, 09:09 PM
#11
Instructor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: South Bend Indiana
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http://s1086.photobucket.com/albums/...6.jpg&newest=1
http://s1086.photobucket.com/albums/...5.jpg&newest=1
http://s1086.photobucket.com/albums/...t=DSC_1043.jpg
Another nice trick to protect your car from vapor/moisture from the concrete slab (or worse yet, soil), lay a minimum 10'x18' x .04 mil visqueen (plastic) sheet on the slab. Pull your car up onto the visqueen sheet.
Open a car door and pull the visqueen up onto the door sill, close the door and trap the visqueen. Now open the other door, pull the visqueen and close the door.
Put your car cover on, now go around the car, pull the the visqueen up under the elastic band of the cover at the front, wheel wells and back end.
In a few minutes your done! The car is in a cocoon that protects it from moisture and mice.
If you're really ****, cut carpet into 16"x6" squares, drive the Vette onto the visqueen but hold short 8", put the carpet snug under the front of each tire, and drive up the last 8"
The tires are now isolated from the concrete and have a yielding material between the tire and a hard slab. Mitigates the flat spotting. Can't hurt.
The BreeZe
http://s1086.photobucket.com/albums/...5.jpg&newest=1
http://s1086.photobucket.com/albums/...t=DSC_1043.jpg
Another nice trick to protect your car from vapor/moisture from the concrete slab (or worse yet, soil), lay a minimum 10'x18' x .04 mil visqueen (plastic) sheet on the slab. Pull your car up onto the visqueen sheet.
Open a car door and pull the visqueen up onto the door sill, close the door and trap the visqueen. Now open the other door, pull the visqueen and close the door.
Put your car cover on, now go around the car, pull the the visqueen up under the elastic band of the cover at the front, wheel wells and back end.
In a few minutes your done! The car is in a cocoon that protects it from moisture and mice.
If you're really ****, cut carpet into 16"x6" squares, drive the Vette onto the visqueen but hold short 8", put the carpet snug under the front of each tire, and drive up the last 8"
The tires are now isolated from the concrete and have a yielding material between the tire and a hard slab. Mitigates the flat spotting. Can't hurt.
The BreeZe
Last edited by The BreeZe; 10-25-2010 at 09:15 PM.
10-25-2010, 09:22 PM
#12
_"SCOTT"_
Is it best to fill the tank to prevent condesation?
I always run it almost all the way out and stabile it before my last ride to make sure all the gas has some in it. Stabile only works for up to 4mo 
so by the time I take out the car 6mo later I dont have a full tank of bad fuel. I then fill it up before the first ride and add isopropoline. Is my thinking wrong?
I always run it almost all the way out and stabile it before my last ride to make sure all the gas has some in it. Stabile only works for up to 4mo so by the time I take out the car 6mo later I dont have a full tank of bad fuel. I then fill it up before the first ride and add isopropoline. Is my thinking wrong?You're absolutely correct to fill the gas tank full and add STA-BIL as an additive if it's going to sit for several months. Untreated pump fuel will start to degrade 4-6 months from purchase. Make sure to add the fuel stabilizer at the pump before filling and drive it a few miles to allow the stabilizer to circulate completely through the fuel system.
No need to start it during the winter unless you're going to run it hot enough to burn off any condensation you may create starting it in cold conditions. It's really not necessary to cold start it as this will do more harm than good, just let it hibernate and you'll be good to go in the spring.
10-25-2010, 09:26 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
Make sure to add the fuel stabilizer at the pump before filling and drive it a few miles to allow the stabilizer to circulate completely through the fuel system.
No need to start it during the winter unless you're going to run it hot enough to burn off any condensation you may create starting it in cold conditions. It's really not necessary to cold start it as this will do more harm than good, just let it hibernate and you'll be good to go in the spring.
No need to start it during the winter unless you're going to run it hot enough to burn off any condensation you may create starting it in cold conditions. It's really not necessary to cold start it as this will do more harm than good, just let it hibernate and you'll be good to go in the spring.
10-25-2010, 10:12 PM
#14
Instructor
Is it best to fill the tank to prevent condesation? I always run it almost all the way out and stabile it before my last ride to make sure all the gas has some in it. Stabile only works for up to 4mo so by the time I take out the car 6mo later I dont have a full tank of bad fuel. I then fill it up before the first ride and add isopropoline. Is my thinking wrong?
I haven't read through all the posts so this might be covered already.....yes fill the tank to prevent condensation. I use Seafoam, add it at the gas station so whatever stabilizer you use gets all the way through the system.
Personally, I don't believe in starting it up from time to time just for the sake of starting it up. Sure you'll get the engine oil hot, but you'll never get all the fluids in the car up to operating temp to burn off any condensation. It's on a battery tender, so no worries there. I think it's best just to let her sleep.
I also change the oil and filter, and add just a couple psi to the tires. Give her a good detailing, and cover her.
10-26-2010, 12:14 AM
#15
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
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When I used to store my boat and Vettes I would also throw in a can of dry gas to absorb moisture. However, best way to store any car is to drive it. They weren't designed to sit around. In the Tom's River area you have mild winters anyways so why bother storing the car? The few days there is any snow just don't drive the car. Snow is nothing more than frozen rain.
Bill
Bill
10-26-2010, 01:13 AM
#16
Melting Slicks
When I used to store my boat and Vettes I would also throw in a can of dry gas to absorb moisture. However, best way to store any car is to drive it. They weren't designed to sit around. In the Tom's River area you have mild winters anyways so why bother storing the car? The few days there is any snow just don't drive the car. Snow is nothing more than frozen rain.
Bill
Bill
BTW Bill, I think we met at the local weekly carshow @ Barnes & Noble's over summer, could be wrong tho.
10-26-2010, 10:21 AM
#18
Premium Supporting Vendor
Why let fresh oil sit in the engine all winter gathering moisture? Change the oil when you take it out of storage, not when you put in in.
The people that start their cars every 2-3 weeks are just wearing out their engines faster by cold starting them. Most engine wear occurs at startup (excluding racing). The best thing to do is just let it sit until spring. What is better, one cold start waiting for oil to circulate through the engine, or 15? They're also heating and cooling the parts, introducing condensation into the oil without getting it up to the temperature to evaporate the condensation.
The people that start their cars every 2-3 weeks are just wearing out their engines faster by cold starting them. Most engine wear occurs at startup (excluding racing). The best thing to do is just let it sit until spring. What is better, one cold start waiting for oil to circulate through the engine, or 15? They're also heating and cooling the parts, introducing condensation into the oil without getting it up to the temperature to evaporate the condensation.
10-26-2010, 01:09 PM
#19
Racer
10-26-2010, 01:23 PM
#20
Race Director
The people that start their cars every 2-3 weeks are just wearing out their engines faster by cold starting them. Most engine wear occurs at startup (excluding racing). The best thing to do is just let it sit until spring. What is better, one cold start waiting for oil to circulate through the engine, or 15? They're also heating and cooling the parts, introducing condensation into the oil without getting it up to the temperature to evaporate the condensation.
better to let it sit
FYI, STA-BIL keeps stored fuel fresh for 12 months.
You're absolutely correct to fill the gas tank full and add STA-BIL as an additive if it's going to sit for several months. Untreated pump fuel will start to degrade 4-6 months from purchase. Make sure to add the fuel stabilizer at the pump before filling and drive it a few miles to allow the stabilizer to circulate completely through the fuel system.
No need to start it during the winter unless you're going to run it hot enough to burn off any condensation you may create starting it in cold conditions. It's really not necessary to cold start it as this will do more harm than good, just let it hibernate and you'll be good to go in the spring.
You're absolutely correct to fill the gas tank full and add STA-BIL as an additive if it's going to sit for several months. Untreated pump fuel will start to degrade 4-6 months from purchase. Make sure to add the fuel stabilizer at the pump before filling and drive it a few miles to allow the stabilizer to circulate completely through the fuel system.
No need to start it during the winter unless you're going to run it hot enough to burn off any condensation you may create starting it in cold conditions. It's really not necessary to cold start it as this will do more harm than good, just let it hibernate and you'll be good to go in the spring.
DO NOT use a "trickle charger". They will overcharge and smoke a battery in no time. Use a float charger such as a 'Battery Tender' or CTEK. They are designed to keep the battery at full charge without cooking them.
Change oil and filter, fill fuel tank (stabilizer optional), over inflate tires a bit, cover (optional) and kiss her goodnight.
Change oil and filter, fill fuel tank (stabilizer optional), over inflate tires a bit, cover (optional) and kiss her goodnight.
NEVER use a Trickle charger for storage.I've been storing cars for over 10 years and followed the above info and a few other minor tips (for keeping rodents away from nesting in the engine bay) and never had any problems whatsoever.