[Z06] 1/4 mi. results NT05R.. Questions
02-12-2011, 08:05 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
1/4 mi. results NT05R.. Questions
Well I finally got to take the car to the track today and it was a blast! The air this morning was awesome and track was hooking good. This was my first time with this car at the track, and I have only been able to drive on these tires for about a week. Launching these cars is def a little tough to get used to.
But first run out, I was the very first car to go down the track. I left at about 2500 rpms just to get a feel for things. Tires hooked well and the car bogged, nailed all my shifts and pulled around to get my slip. Very first run and I busted out an 11.7 at 121 with a 2.0 60ft. My goal for this trip was just to get into the 11's so I was freaking stoked! I did shift into 4th right at the traps.
Next run was not so great, hotlapped right back into the lanes and pretty much got to go right again. I raised the launch rpm to about 2800 and the car bogged again. When I tryed to shift into 2nd the shifter wouldn't go in. So I missed 2nd, got it back in and pulled off a 12.6 at 119 with a 2.0 60 ft.
I let the car cool down for about half an hour or so and got right back into the lanes. I don't really know what my tire pressure was at because the gauge I brouht broke and the damn one on the car never reads the same as my gauges do. So Im guessing somewhere right around 24-25. Well I launched the at about 3100 rpm's and it bogged but took off and got all the shifts smooth and fast. Time slip said I ran a sweet 11.6 at 124 with a 1.90 60 ft. I didn't shift into 4th that run and guess thats why my mph was higher.
But I hotlapped right back around again, staged up to about 3500 rpm and the car bogged just a little and took off! And this time I had trouble going into third. Just felt like no matter how hard I pushed the shifter wouldn't go in again. Finally got it to go into third and busted out a 12.27 at 120 with a 1.8 60 ft. I wish 3rd would have went just to see what I would have ran.
But for the rest of my runs, I had nothing but issues with doing my burnout and launching. Car all of a sudden started wheel hopping when I was doing my burnout and did it some on my launch. So as soon as it did it on my launch I got out of it and then eased back into it. I tryed to mess around with the tire pressure but since my gauge broke I don't really know what it was. So one run it was too high and it spun bad, ran an 11.9 at 123. Next one wheel hopped after I let air out and it wouldn't shift right again got a 12.27 at 119 again lol.
Last run of the day, let the car cooled for about an hour and gave it one more shot. Car wheel hopped horribly and busted out an 11.9 at 124.
All in all I was happy with how the day went and how the tires did. I'm sure as soon as I figure out why the car is wheel hopping I will be very happy with them.
I do have some questions:
1st: Why were the clutch and hydraulics acting up like they were when I hotlapped? Obviously because they were hot but what is the culprit behind this issue? What can I do to remedy this problem?
2nd: What would make the car start to wheel hop after it had been running smooth and doing a good burnout all of a sudden? Same questions with this, what is the culprit and how can I fix it?
Thank you for all that respond! I have put a copy of my 11.6 run, please look it over and let me know what yall think and what I can improve on.
Daniel
But first run out, I was the very first car to go down the track. I left at about 2500 rpms just to get a feel for things. Tires hooked well and the car bogged, nailed all my shifts and pulled around to get my slip. Very first run and I busted out an 11.7 at 121 with a 2.0 60ft. My goal for this trip was just to get into the 11's so I was freaking stoked! I did shift into 4th right at the traps.
Next run was not so great, hotlapped right back into the lanes and pretty much got to go right again. I raised the launch rpm to about 2800 and the car bogged again. When I tryed to shift into 2nd the shifter wouldn't go in. So I missed 2nd, got it back in and pulled off a 12.6 at 119 with a 2.0 60 ft.
I let the car cool down for about half an hour or so and got right back into the lanes. I don't really know what my tire pressure was at because the gauge I brouht broke and the damn one on the car never reads the same as my gauges do. So Im guessing somewhere right around 24-25. Well I launched the at about 3100 rpm's and it bogged but took off and got all the shifts smooth and fast. Time slip said I ran a sweet 11.6 at 124 with a 1.90 60 ft. I didn't shift into 4th that run and guess thats why my mph was higher.
But I hotlapped right back around again, staged up to about 3500 rpm and the car bogged just a little and took off! And this time I had trouble going into third. Just felt like no matter how hard I pushed the shifter wouldn't go in again. Finally got it to go into third and busted out a 12.27 at 120 with a 1.8 60 ft. I wish 3rd would have went just to see what I would have ran.
But for the rest of my runs, I had nothing but issues with doing my burnout and launching. Car all of a sudden started wheel hopping when I was doing my burnout and did it some on my launch. So as soon as it did it on my launch I got out of it and then eased back into it. I tryed to mess around with the tire pressure but since my gauge broke I don't really know what it was. So one run it was too high and it spun bad, ran an 11.9 at 123. Next one wheel hopped after I let air out and it wouldn't shift right again got a 12.27 at 119 again lol.
Last run of the day, let the car cooled for about an hour and gave it one more shot. Car wheel hopped horribly and busted out an 11.9 at 124.
All in all I was happy with how the day went and how the tires did. I'm sure as soon as I figure out why the car is wheel hopping I will be very happy with them.
I do have some questions:
1st: Why were the clutch and hydraulics acting up like they were when I hotlapped? Obviously because they were hot but what is the culprit behind this issue? What can I do to remedy this problem?
2nd: What would make the car start to wheel hop after it had been running smooth and doing a good burnout all of a sudden? Same questions with this, what is the culprit and how can I fix it?
Thank you for all that respond! I have put a copy of my 11.6 run, please look it over and let me know what yall think and what I can improve on.
Daniel
Last edited by 68birdls1; 02-12-2011 at 08:29 PM.
02-12-2011, 08:14 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jun 2010
Location: Phoenix Arizona
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The clutch issue is a common problem, my car had the same issue last night. It gets too hot. Look at Rangers website for information on how to prevent those issues, he knows his ****!
Good times though, glad you have fun!
Good times though, glad you have fun!
02-12-2011, 08:29 PM
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
I have read Rangers page many times and I had fresh clutch fluid in the car when I went to the track 
I change it probably about every month as well
Also the only mods are killer bee II and bee hive
I change it probably about every month as wellAlso the only mods are killer bee II and bee hive
Last edited by 68birdls1; 02-12-2011 at 09:00 PM.
02-13-2011, 07:04 PM
#4
Race Director
Member Since: Aug 2000
Location: Central Florida
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Some comments.
I suspect there's a combination of factors at work that are producing the issues your car visited upon you. The good news is they are driver-induced and correctable with technique adjustments.
(1) You want to always know what the front and rear tire pressures are. No guessing. No borrowing a gauge from someone. Own a good gauge, take it to the track and check/adjust the psi before every pass (singles) or series (hot-lapping). The reason is tire pressure creeps upward and gets uneven side-to-side. So fronts are kept at 40 hot and rears at the highest psi that will hook properly. If the rear psi is too high, wheel hop ensues. If the rears are too low, the clutch produces more heat than necessary and ET/trap suffer from increased rolling resistance.
(2) With a drag radial, an incorrectly done burnout seriously overheats the clutch. Same with a launch with anything but a fast clutch release. Read the last part of post-1 of the Clutch pedal Issue sticky thread, it covers the driver-errors that cause pedal issues. Some of those were in play here.
Link to the burnout page at my website is in my signature. Wheel hop cannot occur during a correctly performed burnout. Proper amount of water on the rears, right starting point for the spin, correct rpm and clutch release, and fast application/release of the brakes, all combine to make for a predictable tire tackiness without fanfare, wheel hop or heating of the clutch friction surfaces. This may take practice away from the track.
(3) Clutch fluid should be pristinely clean (and dry) before making pass #1 and should be changed between passes if it takes on a dark color from accumulated clutch dust. Generally I change the reservoir 1-2-3 times (depending on color) after 3-4 passes on DRs and 5-6 passes on stock tires.
(4) Missed shifts should be very rare. Remediation involves:
(a) clean clutch fluid
(B) not overheating the clutch
(c) correct hand position on the shifter
(d) garage shifting drills to embed muscle memory. See the link in my signature to the page on improved shifting.
The road to faster times always involves eliminating individual mistakes that cumulatively have a large adverse impact. Now you know the cause of some of the issues. Eliminating those will reveal others. That's because fast driving is always a work in progress.
Ranger
I suspect there's a combination of factors at work that are producing the issues your car visited upon you. The good news is they are driver-induced and correctable with technique adjustments.
(1) You want to always know what the front and rear tire pressures are. No guessing. No borrowing a gauge from someone. Own a good gauge, take it to the track and check/adjust the psi before every pass (singles) or series (hot-lapping). The reason is tire pressure creeps upward and gets uneven side-to-side. So fronts are kept at 40 hot and rears at the highest psi that will hook properly. If the rear psi is too high, wheel hop ensues. If the rears are too low, the clutch produces more heat than necessary and ET/trap suffer from increased rolling resistance.
(2) With a drag radial, an incorrectly done burnout seriously overheats the clutch. Same with a launch with anything but a fast clutch release. Read the last part of post-1 of the Clutch pedal Issue sticky thread, it covers the driver-errors that cause pedal issues. Some of those were in play here.
Link to the burnout page at my website is in my signature. Wheel hop cannot occur during a correctly performed burnout. Proper amount of water on the rears, right starting point for the spin, correct rpm and clutch release, and fast application/release of the brakes, all combine to make for a predictable tire tackiness without fanfare, wheel hop or heating of the clutch friction surfaces. This may take practice away from the track.
(3) Clutch fluid should be pristinely clean (and dry) before making pass #1 and should be changed between passes if it takes on a dark color from accumulated clutch dust. Generally I change the reservoir 1-2-3 times (depending on color) after 3-4 passes on DRs and 5-6 passes on stock tires.
(4) Missed shifts should be very rare. Remediation involves:
(a) clean clutch fluid
(B) not overheating the clutch
(c) correct hand position on the shifter
(d) garage shifting drills to embed muscle memory. See the link in my signature to the page on improved shifting.
The road to faster times always involves eliminating individual mistakes that cumulatively have a large adverse impact. Now you know the cause of some of the issues. Eliminating those will reveal others. That's because fast driving is always a work in progress.
Ranger
