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Questions about Aviaid and Lingenfelter 9 qt dry sump combo.

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Old 02-13-2011, 05:23 AM   #1
The Jake
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Default Questions about Aviaid and Lingenfelter 9 qt dry sump combo.

I would like to do the Lingenfelter 9 qt dry sump tank to my Z06. But at the same time I would like to do the Aviaid Dry Sump Tank Insert and Oil Pan Insert and Windage Tray.

My main concern is about the Aviaid Dry Sump Tank Insert and the modded 9qt Lingenfelter Tank. Will these work together properly? The Aviaid Tank Insert has the circle metal pieces that seem to either be there to center the Tank Insert to the Tank body or to actually form a kind of seal to the Tank Body and separate the oil in levels or steps. I don't know what better way to explain what I have in my head right now. lol

If you look at the Lingefelter modded Tank here, you can see the tank is no longer cylinder shaped.

http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...egory_Code=C54


The Aviaid pieces can be viewed here on page 2. They are numbered as steps 1 and 2.

http://aviaid.com/pdfs/153-boltin_dr...6_corvette.pdf

If both the Lingenfelter Tank and Aviaid Tank Insert do not work properly together then I guess my next question would be whats better? A higher capacity of oil in the Dry Sump System from the modded Lingenfelter Tank? Or the improved air and oil separation along with improved oil control capability's of the Aviaid Tank Insert piece.

^^^ My guess here would be the later as I see it almost pointless to add more oil into a system that cant properly control the original amount of oil in it in the first place. Kind of like adding a bunch of power to a car that already has to much of it and cant put it down to the ground, right?

Am I wrong in my view of this?

Thanks in advance for any input.
-Alex.

Last edited by The Jake; 02-16-2011 at 05:52 AM.
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Old 02-14-2011, 12:21 AM   #2
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No one has anything to say about this? lol
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Old 02-14-2011, 10:28 PM   #3
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Still nothing from anyone?
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Old 02-14-2011, 10:31 PM   #4
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My understanding is that if you do the Aviaid Dry Sump Tank Insert and Oil Pan Insert and Windage Tray no need for the larger tank. Much smarter people than me can chime in however with their expertise.
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:47 PM   #5
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i have the tank insert, and the ling tank. both work well and have not had any issues, had them on for 1.5 track summers and no oiling issues.
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:19 AM   #6
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Jake, maybe your concern is regarding the shape of the Ling tank, as you mentioned that it appears no longer cylindrically shaped.

However, the modified Ling tank is done by welding that boxy section to a standard oil tank and access to the extra capacity is by several holes drilled into the side of the tank. In other words, the interior of the Ling tank is identical to the standard Z06 tank with the exception of the additional holes. Therefore, it is still a cylinder and the Aviaid baffle is a good fit. I just completed the install with the Ling tank and Aviaid baffle this weekend and it makes sense.

Hope that helps.......
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Old 02-15-2011, 01:21 PM   #7
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"cylindrically shaped". As hard as I tried I couldn't think of those two words (Or versions of them) the other night when I posted my questions. lol It was late..

But thanks to all of you and your input. I have heard exactly what I needed to hear and will be combining both the tank insert and modded tank shortly. Doing these simple upgrades seems like cheap insurance when tracking the Z06 on R-comp tires.

Thanks.
-Alex.
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:25 PM   #8
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Inside of Lingenfelter 9 qt dry sump tank bottom half below.
You can see the four holes drilled in the side to allow oil to flow from the "add on" tank to the main tank. Three at the bottom and one at the top to vent the add on tank.
Aviaid Dry Sump Tank Insert fits fine.
If you use the Aviaid Oil Pan Insert and Windage Tray and want to retain the stock windage tray you will need to modify it.
Also the Katech LS7 oil pump upgrades the scavenge side of the oil pump which is another weak link in the oiling system.
Good luck with you project.





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Old 02-15-2011, 03:15 PM   #9
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Alex, a couple of tips when doing the Ling tank......

The instructions direct you to take off the oil temp sensor before you remove the tank from the car. Since it is on the back side of the tank, you can forget about the open hole when lowering the tank and spill residual oil. If you can, leave it in until you have the tank out. However, if you are concerned about damaging the sensor, go ahead and take it out first.

The second tip is when you reassemble the tank and instructions direct you to install the in/out lines with the new seals. The instructions talk about ensuring that the rubber side of the seals face the tank. This is because one side of the seal is metal and the other is rubber. However, GM has apparently changed the seal so now both sides are rubber so it makes no difference how the seal is installed. I puzzled over this one for a bit and cleared it up with a call to Lingenfelter.

Lastly, the filter at the bottom of the tank that needs to be removed from the original tank and installed in the Ling tank is very fragile (and apparently expensive). I found that if you wiggle it in addition to the twisting and pushing in the instructions it comes out easier.

Good luck with your project.
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:38 PM   #10
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I also have LF tank and Aviaid and have had no problems for the last 2 years. Personally I decided to not do the Aviaid stock pan baffles. If I go to the next step I would buy the ARE pan and external oil filter. Just my .02 JD
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Old 02-16-2011, 06:02 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wstaab View Post
Inside of Lingenfelter 9 qt dry sump tank bottom half below.
You can see the four holes drilled in the side to allow oil to flow from the "add on" tank to the main tank. Three at the bottom and one at the top to vent the add on tank.
Aviaid Dry Sump Tank Insert fits fine.
If you use the Aviaid Oil Pan Insert and Windage Tray and want to retain the stock windage tray you will need to modify it.
Also the Katech LS7 oil pump upgrades the scavenge side of the oil pump which is another weak link in the oiling system.
Good luck with you project.
Thank you for all of your details and pics! I had heard about the oil pump having its own set of issues as far as oil scavenge. I tried looking at the price for one of the upgraded pumps from Katech but no price was listed.

Also, with the way you put your stock windage tray over the Aviaid windage tray, wouldn't that hurt the performance of the Aviaid piece?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDIllon View Post
I also have LF tank and Aviaid and have had no problems for the last 2 years. Personally I decided to not do the Aviaid stock pan baffles. If I go to the next step I would buy the ARE pan and external oil filter. Just my .02 JD
So are you saying just to do the upgraded tank and the tank insert and not the oil pan insert and windage tray? I understand you have no problems with your car, but do you track it? If so, on what kind of tires? I have heard so many stories of these engines starving for oil under hard track use with sticky rubber that I want to do all I can do to fix the factory dry sump systems short comings. I would really have to spin a bearing on my car.. =\

Quote:
Originally Posted by harrydirty View Post
Alex, a couple of tips when doing the Ling tank......

The instructions direct you to take off the oil temp sensor before you remove the tank from the car. Since it is on the back side of the tank, you can forget about the open hole when lowering the tank and spill residual oil. If you can, leave it in until you have the tank out. However, if you are concerned about damaging the sensor, go ahead and take it out first.

The second tip is when you reassemble the tank and instructions direct you to install the in/out lines with the new seals. The instructions talk about ensuring that the rubber side of the seals face the tank. This is because one side of the seal is metal and the other is rubber. However, GM has apparently changed the seal so now both sides are rubber so it makes no difference how the seal is installed. I puzzled over this one for a bit and cleared it up with a call to Lingenfelter.

Lastly, the filter at the bottom of the tank that needs to be removed from the original tank and installed in the Ling tank is very fragile (and apparently expensive). I found that if you wiggle it in addition to the twisting and pushing in the instructions it comes out easier.

Good luck with your project.
Thank you for the tips. I will put them to goo use very soon. lol

Last edited by The Jake; 02-16-2011 at 06:10 AM.
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Old 02-16-2011, 03:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Jake View Post
Thank you for all of your details and pics! I had heard about the oil pump having its own set of issues as far as oil scavenge. I tried looking at the price for one of the upgraded pumps from Katech but no price was listed.
$718.99
-$269 core deposit upon return of a good pump
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Old 02-16-2011, 03:19 PM   #13
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Got it! Im guessing you have pumps ready to go with no turn around time, correct?

Thanks.
-Alex.
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Old 02-16-2011, 03:49 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Jake View Post
Got it! Im guessing you have pumps ready to go with no turn around time, correct?

Thanks.
-Alex.
Unfortunately they're on backorder with no promise date right now. You might want to try one of our dealers:
Scoggin Dickey
Thunder Racing
Quality Motorsports
LG Motorsports

There is a longer list of dealers on our website, but I can't recall anybody else stocking the pumps besides Breathless Performance and Golen Engines, but they are out of stock also.
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