b4i4getit

The clutch engagement point is supposed to be in the bottom 1/3 of travel. At what point should the clutch disengage when you push it in ? It seems like I have to push mine right to the very bottom. Is this the way it should be ?

427PWRD

Mine "used to" engage towards the bottom, but now it seems I have to lift it up passed the halfway point before it engages. Any comments on that?

Turbooo2u

My girlfriend said the same thing about my Z compared to her 09' coupe. Regardless, I think the clutch action is way too light.

427PWRD

My clutch only has about 1,000 miles on it, and I just started daily driving it, so I've noticed the engagement is higher. It drives fine, but I notice everything...

Ranger

The clutch engagement point should be in the center third of travel. If it's not there on your car, then you likely have air in the hydraulics.

You can disgorge air from the hydraulics by following the protocol in the clutch-care sticky atop this board.

Remember protocol pedal pumps should be full-top-foot-off-the-pedal to full-bottom to full-top-foot-off-the-pedal.

Ranger

scootguy58

I just noticed recently that I am up past the middle all of a sudden....48,000+ miles

Unreal

Mine is right at the very top. I think I need to adjust it this afternoon. I have a tick adjustable master. Not sure if I need to lengthen or shorten the rod.

u1arunit

You would need to shorten the rod.

b4i4getit

I guess my post was not clear. I am talking about disengagement - when the engine and transmission are not connected. I have to push down right to the very bottom to disengage. Seems I have driven other cars that this was not the case. Is this normal for the Z06 to have to push the clutch in right to the very bottom of travel before you can shift to the next gear ?

Gary '09 C6

engagement point seems way too low (for any car with a manual) IMO...
you may have a failure of the slave cylinder

I had a similar problem once with my Porsche 928S...

Ranger

As background, suggest OP read the explanation of "how the clutch hydraulics work" laid out in a separate section of post-1 here.

While there, watch the video at: 4:40. The clip shows that the total movement of the master cylinder rod attached to the clutch pedal is just one inch in and one inch out. The long travel of the clutch pedal is about geometry, setting up that "one inch."

The location of that "one inch" should be the same for disengagement and engagement.

That's easy to test for in a parking lot. Omit the throttle. Just release the clutch at idle; note the engagement point. Then with the car moving, slowly depress the clutch and you should detect the disengagement point.

That "one inch" should be in the center-third of pedal travel. If it's not (OP reports it's near the floor), then the first thing to check for is air in the hydraulics. Trapped air can usually be disgorged harmlessly into the reservoir by repeated pumps of the clutch pedal full-top-foot-off-the-pedal to full bottom back to full-top-foot-off-the-pedal. Do 20 reps and then check the reservoir for tiny bubbles of disgorged air. Repeat until the engagement/disengagement point return to the middle-third of pedal travel.

I'm a believer in self-help, eliminating the easy fixes before turning to the big $$$ steps.

Finally a couple questions to the OP.

Is the clutch fluid clean?
Has any change been made to the clutch or clutch hydraulics since the car was built?

Ranger

b4i4getit

Thanks Ranger for the detailed reply. I was not aware that engagement and disengagement would be at exactly the same point. I tried what you suggested and it appears that my perception might be off a bit. It engages and disengages in the top third. I am so used to putting it all the way to the bottom due to habits from a previous vehicle. Can any harm be done by pushing the pedal all the way down to disengage even if not necessary ?

Ranger

You missed two questions.

If the engagement point is not in the center-third of travel, then you likely have air in the hydraulics. That condition needs correction.

No harm comes from pushing the clutch pedal to the floor. That's the position required to start the car.

In my garage shifting drills and at the track, my stroke of the clutch pedal is full, nearly to the floor. I don't try to minimize clutch pedal travel; rather I seek to ensure full disengagement of the clutch during every shift. That engrained habit, embedded in muscle memory via drills, is the main contributor to my total avoidance of tranny issues in ten years at the drag strip.

Ranger