topmover

There has been lots of talk of rotor and pad wear on this forum in recent weeks. In ten track days Im now on my third set of pads and second set of front rotors. I love the brakes and dont want to go to steel however the wear rate is much worse than I certainly expected.

If I were more computer savy Id post a couple videos running with PCA last weekend.

sammyv

Thanks for sharing the imfo! Can you give us some idea what rotors and pads cost you?

topmover

I have not shopped very hard but Richiez06 who follows these threads seems to give good pricing and excellant service. Hopefully as more people start wearing these things out the pricing will come down some.

jvp

How are you determining that you've worn the rotors out? Are you weighing or mic'ing them?

jas

range96

Your wear seems to be more severe than what we've been experiencing. Why the need for new front rotors?

Do you run with PTM? Which mode? Which track?

Curious to know details.

QUIKAG

Definitely seems to be excessive wear for some reason.

Tonycan

Seems like something else going on here with the rotors. Even under the conditions you describe, they still should have a lot of life left. I and the second owner of my 430 put several thousand track miles on the car and the rotors still had a lot of life left after a total o fover 20,000 miles (street and track) on the odometer. Changed pads a couple of times, but that was it.

Also, since you've changed pads several times, did your pad wear sensor come on in time, or did you change them out before that?

slacker1201

That seems extremely excessive! It would be nice to get some more information on the duration of track times and other vital info.

RichieRichZ06

Rotors are $1,299 each, front pads are $535 and rears are $395. I sell a ton of these and we do not make much on them at those prices. Retail is $1,712, $893 and $662 respectively.

RICH

Tonycan

If you sell a ton of rotors, which I do not doubt your word, then there is something drastically wrong with this rotor design/cc compound--whatever. That just shouldn't happen, IMO. I can see it in a pure 10/10ths racing environment, but not on a ZR1 with occasional track time.

RichieRichZ06

I should clarify... I mostly sell them as an upgrade to Z06 customers wanting ZR1/Z07 brakes. We've sold a quite a few of those packages, which include front and rear rotors. I've only sold about 6 replacement rotors to ZR1 owners that have worn them out. 4 rears and 2 fronts to date.

Tonycan

Thanks. I feel better already.

Question: When someone upgrades to the ZR1 brakes, is it a simple switchover, or do you have to make other changes? The reason I ask is I had a 430 with CC brakes, sold it and later bought another one from a friend without the CC brakes. I missed them, and wanted to upgrade to the CC brakes on that car. The Ferrari service manager told me is was not possible to just change out the brakes. He said there were other differences between the two systems, such as size of the brake reservoir and computer electronics that controlled the tc and abs. In other words, it was not possible, or would be prohibitively expensive. Just curious.

Lasco001

I've found that should be replaced after 3 pads the rotors.
We have found that the rotors are then no longer have a smooth surface and the weight is on the limit.
We have also tested Race pads Ferrari F430 Scuderia / Challange
This work on the ZR1 on the toughest race track (Motodromo Monza) perfectly.

An additional ventilation is very important!

PS: I have steel rotors!
Unfortunately I can not use images

From Switzerland
Cölestin

RichieRichZ06

It is a direct bolt on kit. The master cyl is the same for all 2009 and up C6's so the ZR1/Z07 is no different in that respect. The only items that is not compatable are the stock C6 or C6Z wheels. They will not clear the front calipers. TC/ABS/AH will all function normal and there will be no issues there.

topmover

sorry for the delay I was out in the gulf all day yesterday. I will try to answer all the questions.

The fronts became abrasive and were taking little chuncks out of the pads after 8 days.

Sofar my ZR1 only has run at Summit Point Main and Sheandoah. I run with a number of clubs and my track times are normally 20-25 mins.

I do both the street and track pad brandish.........lasting only 3 days makes the street brandish a huge pain.

At least some rivets have been visable during every pad change and I have yet to have a sensor indicate a worn pad.

topmover

Forgot to answer what mode.... sport 3 when Im really driving to the max I do get some intervention on certain corners. I should probably run 4.

jvp

For what it's worth, that's a sign that the pad material is finally toast and needs to be changed. It's not a sign of the rotors needing swapping. The rotors are to be swapped if A)they're damaged somehow (see my old thread), or B)they fail to meet the thickness and/or mass specifications.

You're certainly free to swap rotors all you like, it's your car. I'd recommend getting them mic'd and weighed next time before you swap them.

jas

Steve Snake Driver

If memory serves me, during discussion at Spring Mountain on modes, the default mode (starting car with none of the traction modes selected or buttons pressed afterward) is equivalent to a setting somewhere between 3 and 4.

jvp

Not even close. Without pushing any of the buttons, the system is full on, including the very-intrusive traction control, and the yaw control in it's "conservative" mode.

jas

range96

When we talk about the different program modes we need to identify the MY. According to info from SM, the programming was changed significantly for the default mode in MY2010. It is a lot more "forgiving" than on the 2009 cars (for Traction Control and Active Handling).