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[Z06] NACA duct removal......

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Old 04-20-2012, 11:38 PM
  #21  
whatcop?
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Originally Posted by Stage Runner
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I think he means the "wall" behind the NACA duct. There are two different things going on in this thread.

1) People asking about removing the NACA bezel which is the front outer piece/ornamental piece

2) People referring to actually opening the duct up so the air-filter can breathe.
Old 04-21-2012, 01:21 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Halltech
Jim Painter is correct. The factory researched the amount of airflow allowed by NACA duct and unless you have our Beehive or in the case of the stock setup, a vented hood, you will likely see the hood ripped off the car at around 200 mph. Lift is a real problem without the Beehive.

Guess where the airflow from the NACA duct ends up with the Beehive onboard?
Jim

Any real life data between standard NACA duct and opened up one? And if using your beehive, there wouldnt be any need for the vented hood?
Old 04-23-2012, 03:04 PM
  #23  
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I guess no real life data
Old 04-23-2012, 03:28 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by HNK
Jim

Any real life data between standard NACA duct and opened up one? And if using your beehive, there wouldnt be any need for the vented hood?
No data. I can tell you that our IAT's are ambient all the time. Our water temps are 167F to 172F all the time with our hood, and that is with 13:1 comp. ratio and E85.

No surging.
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:22 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by HNK
Jim

Any real life data between standard NACA duct and opened up one? And if using your beehive, there wouldnt be any need for the vented hood?
The purpose of the vented hood is to reduce up lift or increase down force by allowing air that comes in the front for cooling and firing to escape. This air getting out easier also improves cooling and pushes down on the vented hood. If you put more air in without a vented hood then the lift will increase but the increase depends on the amount of air in and how easy that extra air gets out. I don't think it would be worth the time an A/B test when Jim Hall has a very good solution.

Jim
Old 04-23-2012, 11:41 PM
  #26  
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Agreed, I knew the function of the vented hood and its benefits. I wanted more data on opening the NACA duct. The idea of having unrestricted/direct air flow to the filter is great but would have been nice to have actual data. Probably difficult to measure though.

Jim i remember seeing pictures of how you opened the duct up, would you still have them or a link for that?

thnx
Old 06-14-2012, 09:55 PM
  #27  
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Can someone tell me where this rear rubber hose is?

Thanks you guys for the aero info. I was looking to removing that black plastic and replacing it with a mesh type still but had no clue it would create more lift...

So if you do remove that duct and replace it with a mesh style would this rubber hose removal help in keeping the lift neutral?
Old 06-14-2012, 11:58 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Toilets
Can someone tell me where this rear rubber hose is?

Thanks you guys for the aero info. I was looking to removing that black plastic and replacing it with a mesh type still but had no clue it would create more lift...

So if you do remove that duct and replace it with a mesh style would this rubber hose removal help in keeping the lift neutral?
Base of the area holding the windshield wipers.
Old 06-15-2012, 07:42 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Halltech
Jim Painter is correct. The factory researched the amount of airflow allowed by NACA duct and unless you have our Beehive or in the case of the stock setup, a vented hood, you will likely see the hood ripped off the car at around 200 mph. Lift is a real problem without the Beehive.

Guess where the airflow from the NACA duct ends up with the Beehive onboard?
Jim,

Would you go without the Beehive if you have a vented hood and opened up NACA duct?
Old 06-15-2012, 11:59 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by HNK
Jim,

Would you go without the Beehive if you have a vented hood and opened up NACA duct?
I would do what I did. My NACA duct is opened up so that the airflow is directed solely into the Beehive area. If airflow can lift the hood, imagine what it is doing inside the intake system.....

Unfortunately, the Beehive is not sealed, so there would never be enough pressure to make much boost at any speed.

The GT2 hood relieves any pressure that comes from the radiator. The heat waves can be seen rising from the DRED part of the hood stopped at a stop light. Intense amount of heat.

There is a 20-25F degree difference between the coolant temps with and without our hood.
Old 06-15-2012, 06:52 PM
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Old 06-16-2012, 04:06 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Halltech
I would do what I did. My NACA duct is opened up so that the airflow is directed solely into the Beehive area. If airflow can lift the hood, imagine what it is doing inside the intake system.....

Unfortunately, the Beehive is not sealed, so there would never be enough pressure to make much boost at any speed.

The GT2 hood relieves any pressure that comes from the radiator. The heat waves can be seen rising from the DRED part of the hood stopped at a stop light. Intense amount of heat.

There is a 20-25F degree difference between the coolant temps with and without our hood.
Just to make sure, are you saying with the beehive I dont really need a vented hood? I would eventually need vented hood of some sort to get rid of the underhood heat.

thnx
Old 06-16-2012, 06:46 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by HNK
Just to make sure, are you saying with the beehive I dont really need a vented hood? I would eventually need vented hood of some sort to get rid of the underhood heat.

thnx
What I am saying is that the Beehive captures all of the NACA duct airflow in so far as the underhood is concerned. Some of the pressure built up will exit below the Beehive, since it is not a sealed unit.

Some worry about surging. I drove our 650 HP Katech built E85 motor yesterday in 6th gear at 45mph and it is smooth as glass.

I will have some videos on YouTube today. I cannot post them here, for obvious reasons.

The Halltech GT2 Hood saves 13lbs over stock, has Direct Radiator Exit Ducting to vent most of the radiator heat; lowers the ECT by 20 degrees; increases downforce on the front end; and is the coolest looking hood on the market today.

We have one in stock in Show Carbon top and bottom. $3400.00
Old 06-17-2012, 10:52 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by whatcop?
I think he means the "wall" behind the NACA duct. There are two different things going on in this thread.

1) People asking about removing the NACA bezel which is the front outer piece/ornamental piece

2) People referring to actually opening the duct up so the air-filter can breathe.

Yes, you are right. Some people are asking how to remove everything behind the front bezel so the air can enter directly into the behive. I don't think anyone has come out and said "you have to remove the front bumper cover and dremel and cut. Everyone is dancing around it. They want their setup to look like this:


I think another confusion is this area at the back of the hood that Ranger has talked about opening up. Even that has me confused. Anyone have a pic?


-jeff

Last edited by FRDnemesis; 06-17-2012 at 10:55 PM.
Old 06-18-2012, 04:48 PM
  #35  
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At the leading edge of the cowl/firewall area, there is a rubber gasket that seals against the rear edge of the hood. You can simply pull this off, and it ventilates air from under the hood. I did this and it helps, lots of engine heat is allowed to escape. At speed you will get some cowl induction effect that will draw outside air into the engine comparment. See blue tape:

Old 06-19-2012, 09:44 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by dovervold
At the leading edge of the cowl/firewall area, there is a rubber gasket that seals against the rear edge of the hood. You can simply pull this off, and it ventilates air from under the hood. I did this and it helps, lots of engine heat is allowed to escape. At speed you will get some cowl induction effect that will draw outside air into the engine comparment. See blue tape:


Thank you for your contribution to this post That's what I was thinking that was, but everyone was calling it hose vs. weather stripping so I was kind of baffled? Now if I could find a step-by-step for removing the wall/baffle behind the NACA inlet duct, I'd be better able to determine if I want to open it up or not.

By the way, I really like your injector cover mod to show off those awesome valve covers! Pretty sharp! Whose signature is on the injector covers?

-jeff
Old 06-19-2012, 11:48 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by dovervold
At the leading edge of the cowl/firewall area, there is a rubber gasket that seals against the rear edge of the hood. You can simply pull this off, and it ventilates air from under the hood. I did this and it helps, lots of engine heat is allowed to escape. At speed you will get some cowl induction effect that will draw outside air into the engine comparment. See blue tape:

Thank you. But, isn't the consensus that removing this piece would infact create front end lift?

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Old 06-19-2012, 12:27 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by FRDnemesis
Thank you for your contribution to this post That's what I was thinking that was, but everyone was calling it hose vs. weather stripping so I was kind of baffled? Now if I could find a step-by-step for removing the wall/baffle behind the NACA inlet duct, I'd be better able to determine if I want to open it up or not.

By the way, I really like your injector cover mod to show off those awesome valve covers! Pretty sharp! Whose signature is on the injector covers?

-jeff
Doug Rippie of DRM
Old 06-19-2012, 12:29 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Toilets
Thank you. But, isn't the consensus that removing this piece would infact create front end lift?
For a street car I don't think it really matters. For a road racer, you may be correct!
Old 06-19-2012, 03:19 PM
  #40  
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I'm a hpder. I wonder at what speeds this removal will negatively you?


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