sterling12

I'm new to the forum as well as being a vette owner so sorry in advance if I've posted this in the wrong area. I recently acquired a new 2011 ZR1 and as many of you do, want to change my own oil. I've read a few threads on changing the oil as well as the manual and am pretty clear on what I need to do (two plugs, etc). So, here's my question. I notice that the location of the drain plugs are such that unless the car is level, it appears the used oil may not adequately drain (ref the plug on the side). I also noticed in the manual that they state the car should be level. I was considering purchasing the 87 inch long 10 inch high race ramps that others have referenced in regards to elevating the car without rubbing the carbon fiber splitter. Has anyone done an oil change using these ramps and did they feel as if the oil adequately drained? Thanks

Reciprocal

I use a marine pump to vacuum the oil from the oil tank through the dipstick hole. Then use a racing floor jack on the drivers side. The whole side will raise. Slip a jack stand in there for safety, and remove the drain plugs and filter. Set the oil pan underneath, climb out from underneath, remove the jack stand and lower the jack to drain the remaining oil while car is leveled. Jack it up again, put the drain bolts back in and new filter topped with oil. Remove the pan, let it down, refill the oil tank. Lot's of ways to do this simple job.

whatcop?

I wouldn't recommend that. In the even their is anything sitting in the system such as contaminants you will leave them behind. Their are two drain plugs and both need to be pulled when the vehicle is level to properly drain the system. If you have an oil preference most dealers do not mind you bring in your own oil and just paying for the labor to have it swapped. Also locating a LS aftermarket shop isn't a bad idea if you do not feel like getting under the car yourself.

Reciprocal

Read the post again.

whatcop?

My bad didn't realize you were tilting the car to the side and still pulling the plugs, but why bother suctioning out the oil at that point. I have one of the pumps for my parents jet skis and it takes forever to use.

Reciprocal

It's all good. You don't have to use the pump, it just minimizes the chance for a bigger spill if something goes awry when pulling the plugs, filter or drain pan. The vacuum pump I use is the hand pump type. It takes just a few strokes to get it it started, finishes by itself. Flows faster if oil is warm. The pump will contain 5 quarts, before emptying required, pretty convenient.

whatcop?

Sounds exactly like the one I have.

3LZZ06

I think you meant 67" X 10".

I have the 56" X 8" with the the trac jax (3") for the rear which give the front axle of the car about a 5" pitch. I used this setup for my Z06 and now for the ZR1. The drain volume always ended up the exact factory fill amount, 8 qts for the Z and 10.5 qts for the ZR1 which brings the fill level 3/4 of the crosshatch on the dipstick so the slight pitch has had no, or very little affect on draining all the oil.

The only thing I have to do to accommodate the ZR1 that I didn't have to do with the Z is put a 1" step in front of the ramps so that I don't rub the splitter. I used 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood about 2 ft long stacked on one another for each side at the beginning of the ramps.

I originally went with the 56" ramps to keep the pitch as close to level as possible but I don't think the 67" ramps would be a problem by increasing the pitch 2".

Just an FYI, the 56" and 67" have the exact same approach angle so either way you'll need the plywood or the extenders that race ramps sells to accommodate the splitter.

PS, it's a worthwhile task knowing that your oil is changed properly if you choose to do it yourself.

911/Q45

Curious, not critical, why the 0W40 rather than the recommended 5W30?

0Fred@ReverseLogic

Actually, we sell 72" and 87" custom ramps with integrated XTenders.

mjcourt

My driveway slopes down from the garage. I keep the back tires in the garage and the car sits level for oil changes. $20 for the 2” x 12” boards.

erikszr1

lots of ways....only one that comes to mind. lol

3LZZ06

Less cold start wear which is where most abuse occurs for our engines, higher viscosity for track duty and such, and about 200 ppm more zinc and phosphorous compared to the 5W30 which is an additional help to combat wear.

IMO an all around slightly better choice.

This is the European recommended oil for our cars and US/Europe recommended for Porsche, Mercedes, BMW, Viper...etc

GOLD72

Ramps look just like mine!!

jvp

Youse guys is doing it all wrong...



jas

911/Q45

Suffering from serious lift envy(sigh).

3LZZ06

Show off!!!...

I would do the same if I could fit one in my tiny garage...........I need a new, or another house.

range96

So, why you need those ramps tucked away in that garage. Just bring them up to SP next time for us less fortunate.

jvp

I didn't always have a lift...

And no, you can't have them.

jas

range96

It's all right, I would never use them anyway. Besides, the garage is full of stuff already. With the right jack the ramps are not needed.