Unreal

The tick removes the spring anyways. On the stock master and tick mine has been removed. Never had clutch issues.

master blaster

I have a cartek clutch that that holds my power fine but when I go wot it won't let me shift into the next gear.....unless I pump the clutch pedal 5-6
Times really fast....?
My clutch pedal always comes back up...never falls on the floor. I changed the clutch fluid and it helped some....but it came back....and is getting worse..I think the hotter outside temps make it worse!
My power is way more then what they rate the clutch at.....will this master cylinder mod fix my problems?

HNK

Question for the guys who have the problem, do you have remote bleeder line?

obzidian

The factory system is flawed. Just ask any gm tech how many master cylinders them replace in these c6's in a month.

the Tick MC is a solid step in the right direction. I wonder if the guys with the Tick MC have noticed any change in how quickly their clutch fluid gets contaminated. Find the source and a repair for that contamination and I believe you would of found a solution to all of our problems.

Now, if you want to replace the factory junk clutch for something better be my guest, the LS7 clutch, imo, isn't even worth considering if you are interesting in actually racing this car. All it takes is one small yet stupid slip and its done... a car slower without even trying.

Crash_Z06

Thank you!

vertC6

I have several questions;

1. So what you are saying is the whole issue is simply air bubbles in the system regardless if you have a stock ls7 or ls9r clutch slave?

2. Does the Katech remote bleeder work on the stock ls7 slave?

3. Has the issue been fixed by gm on 09 and newer models?

4. It sounds like for my goals of 600rwhp and 575rwtq that the stock should hold up fine according to the OP?

Thanks!

vertC6

ttt

Katech_Zach

2. Yes.

BgBoost1

Just ran across this and saw your questions. Sorry I did not see them earlier.

1. Not exactly sure what the issues were.....I had the Katech remote bleeder, and changed the fluid via the Ranger method and it never changed the falling clutch pedal on WOT pulls. I could drive it all day and shift under 3K RPM and it worked great, but one WOT pull in 2nd gear and it would fall to the floor.

2. Yes as Jason said above

3. I have a friend with an 09 who is having a smiliar issue?

4. Mine was holding up, as it looks great without any hot spots or signs of excessive wear. I only ran it for 6 months with the 600rwhp, but it always held and never slipped. I might have been on borrowed time, but since I replaced it I am not sure how long it would have lasted!

Update - 2 Months later I still have not changed the fluid (Still looks clear) and the Tick is still working perfectly! I finally have confidence back in my clutch pedal and the pressure and my car is fun to drive again!

JUIC3D

Did you notice any dead space at the top of your pedal stroke with the Tick? I just installed one in my car and while everything feels good, there top 1" of travel is dead, meaning that the pedal just kind of flops around. I've bled and rebled the clutch 3 times with the remote bleeder but it never changes. I've also made adjustments to the clutch pedal itself and while the engagement point changes, the dead space remains constant.

I did NOT do the bench bleed on the master cylinder itself when I installed it though--I figured I had the remote bleeder so it would not be a problem. I wonder if this could be causing an issue.

BgBoost1

Yes, mine is the same. When I spoke to tick about it they reminded me that it takes 1/2 the travel with the Tilton unit to move the same fluid as the stock unit. Several Tick owners on LS1tech said the same thing. I did not find is a problem, as the pedal pressure is perfect for me and the clutch works like it should!

JUIC3D

Your pedal has 0 pressure for the first 1" as well? I want to make sure I understand correctly

I can reach down with my pinky and push the pedal back and forth and it just moves fore and aft for the first 1" or so. Pushing past the 1" mark the pedal is firm and feels normal. This is what you experienced?

How about fluid in the reservoir? I've bled the clutch 3x and each time, the next day or 2, the fluid in the reservoir is down about 1/8". Did your level change? Or do you think it's possible I still have air in the line?

Beach Bum

Thanks for sharing Bgboost !! It is really helplful to the community.

On another note, on the fluid changing (Ranger method).... I have done mine 3x times now and literally after 25 miles of driving the fluid is back to pure black. Is this normal ? I'm getting tired of changing this stuff constantly. I would guess I have siphoned 40 syringe fills out of it over those 3x times with time after 30-40 clutch pumps, the fluid was clear.... so I shut the hood and drive normal street driving for 25 miles. Casually check it and its like I never did anything its so black.

Frustrating.

BgBoost1

Yes and Yes, and I have been told that with the Tick that is normal. The tick moves twice the fluid in the same distance as the stock master. I have not noticed my fluid level going down, but I did follow the Katech remote bleeder instructions to a T and it works great!!

I noticed the same thing with the stock master. It was always black, no matter how many times I changed it. After 1000 miles and over 2 months with the Tick my fluid is still clear and I have not changed it once since it was bled.

JUIC3D

Weird, I called Tick and they suggested that I either have a leak or the system isn't bled properly. I find it concerning that the pedal has 0 pressure for the first full inch of travel. That strikes me as odd. I'll be checking for leaks I suppose.

BgBoost1

Mine did take some adjusting to get it to all work correctly, just as Jason told me it would. I found a delicate balance in getting the clutch to feel correct, go in and out of gear correct, and also connect with the Neutral Safety Switch at the bottom so it would start and also the cruise control switch at the top. It does seem to have some "Play" or "dead space" at the top. Not sure if it is exactly 1" or not, but is sounds like what you are describing.

I have heard that sometimes the Blue AN fitting on the master will leak, so check that to see if it is leaking...that is where I would start. I tightened mine real good before installation since I heard that they leaked sometimes. I just checked the fluid level and I have not lost any since initial installation. Let us know what you find out!

JUIC3D

Thanks for the follow up. I appreciate it. The car drives great and shifting does feel better. I'm just concerned about the fluid loss(maybe an air pocket?) and the floppy pedal. I'll post up when I figure it out. Thanks again

rattt g

i just had the tick installed, now i have about 1" of play in the clutch pedel, is that a normal thing?

Screamin Z

Yes

JUIC3D

I just redid mine and rebled the entire thing, just to make sure.. the 1/2-1" of play is still there but as best I can tell, everything feels ok. I still don't know why the reservoir is losing a little bit of fluid after I do the bleed. I guess I'll have to keep an eye on it.