[Z06] Thinking about boosting Z06, but worried about something.. any experience appreciated
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Thinking about boosting Z06, but worried about something.. any experience appreciated
I have a 33k mile 2006 Z06 that is perfect in every way, and I've thought about boosting it (either centrifugal s/c or twin turbo), and I would do a very mild tune (600-650hp). I'm worried about one thing..
The car is perfect..streetable..doesn't overheat..etc, and honestly..its still quick even though its stock. I could drive it coast to coast..and not worry about any problems. I worry about loosing that reliability. I dont want to afford really screwing something up, especially with the ls7, and especially with such a nice car.
Some of you may say, then why boost it? Leave it alone! (Though that isn't the purpose of the thread I will entertain said question). I'm young, a few friends have boosted tuners (600-800hp cars), and they are a LOT of fun. So why not?! (Don't even think about suggesting me get a tuner. Sorry, not me.)
My ultimate question in all of this, is how reliable is the ls7 bottom end boosted at say 600-650whp (probably 700-750 crank hp)? Can it be a matter of, install, 5lbs of boost, tune, and have an equally reliable streetable 600whp car good for 150,000 more miles? Occasionally I may take it on a road trip, but this car is usually just a weekend driver with the occasional street racing just for craps Hope I've made sense in all of the rambling. Any experienced opinions would be appreciated!
The car is perfect..streetable..doesn't overheat..etc, and honestly..its still quick even though its stock. I could drive it coast to coast..and not worry about any problems. I worry about loosing that reliability. I dont want to afford really screwing something up, especially with the ls7, and especially with such a nice car.
Some of you may say, then why boost it? Leave it alone! (Though that isn't the purpose of the thread I will entertain said question). I'm young, a few friends have boosted tuners (600-800hp cars), and they are a LOT of fun. So why not?! (Don't even think about suggesting me get a tuner. Sorry, not me.)
My ultimate question in all of this, is how reliable is the ls7 bottom end boosted at say 600-650whp (probably 700-750 crank hp)? Can it be a matter of, install, 5lbs of boost, tune, and have an equally reliable streetable 600whp car good for 150,000 more miles? Occasionally I may take it on a road trip, but this car is usually just a weekend driver with the occasional street racing just for craps Hope I've made sense in all of the rambling. Any experienced opinions would be appreciated!
Last edited by vette505; 02-19-2015 at 06:42 AM.
#2
Drifting
No matter what you do, make sure you get the heads checked (and fixed) first or as part of your build. See all the associated threads. You may well be ok for 1,000 more miles, maybe 50,000 miles, but just because it's stock doesn't mean it's "perfect." As many here will say who have had their valves drop and destroy engines, the LS7 is a ticking time bomb if you have the valve guide issue. I'm sure you're already aware of this, but just wanted to make the point. Good luck with your build!
#4
Drifting
If you modify your car for more power, it will be less reliable. That is just a fact. There are no free lunches. You pay to play.
That said, certain things are more reliable than others. Exhaust and intake, for example don't increase the complexity of the systems. Adding a supercharger for sure does.
That said, certain things are more reliable than others. Exhaust and intake, for example don't increase the complexity of the systems. Adding a supercharger for sure does.
#5
Drifting
If you modify your car for more power, it will be less reliable. That is just a fact. There are no free lunches. You pay to play.
That said, certain things are more reliable than others. Exhaust and intake, for example don't increase the complexity of the systems. Adding a supercharger for sure does.
That said, certain things are more reliable than others. Exhaust and intake, for example don't increase the complexity of the systems. Adding a supercharger for sure does.
#6
Melting Slicks
You can achieve 550-600hp normally aspirated and remain fun to drive. Anything above that and driveabilty suffers.
The #1 thing in adding a blower is not to get greedy. To many of us think just another 100hp and pretty soon you overwhelm the OEM parts and end up driving a grenade.
The weak links are the exhaust valves, the cast alum pistons, the thin wall bore liners, the clutch, and if pushed too hard the cooling system. A good plan for adding boost should address these systems.
The #1 thing in adding a blower is not to get greedy. To many of us think just another 100hp and pretty soon you overwhelm the OEM parts and end up driving a grenade.
The weak links are the exhaust valves, the cast alum pistons, the thin wall bore liners, the clutch, and if pushed too hard the cooling system. A good plan for adding boost should address these systems.
Last edited by Vito.A; 02-19-2015 at 11:05 PM.
#7
Drifting
You can achieve 550-600hp normally aspirated and remain fun to drive. Anything above that and drivabilty suffers.
The #1 thing in adding a blower is not to get greedy. To many of us think just another 100hp and pretty soon you overwhelm the OEM parts and end up driving a grenade.
The weak links are the exhaust valves, the cast alum pistons, the thin wall bore liners, the clutch, and if pushed too hard the cooling system. A good plan for adding boost should address these systems.
The #1 thing in adding a blower is not to get greedy. To many of us think just another 100hp and pretty soon you overwhelm the OEM parts and end up driving a grenade.
The weak links are the exhaust valves, the cast alum pistons, the thin wall bore liners, the clutch, and if pushed too hard the cooling system. A good plan for adding boost should address these systems.
#8
Supporting Tuner
I have a 33k mile 2006 Z06 that is perfect in every way, and I've thought about boosting it (either centrifugal s/c or twin turbo), and I would do a very mild tune (600-650hp). I'm worried about one thing..
The car is perfect..streetable..doesn't overheat..etc, and honestly..its still quick even though its stock. I could drive it coast to coast..and not worry about any problems. I worry about loosing that reliability. I dont want to afford really screwing something up, especially with the ls7, and especially with such a nice car.
Some of you may say, then why boost it? Leave it alone! (Though that isn't the purpose of the thread I will entertain said question). I'm young, a few friends have boosted tuners (600-800hp cars), and they are a LOT of fun. So why not?! (Don't even think about suggesting me get a tuner. Sorry, not me.)
My ultimate question in all of this, is how reliable is the ls7 bottom end boosted at say 600-650whp (probably 700-750 crank hp)? Can it be a matter of, install, 5lbs of boost, tune, and have an equally reliable streetable 600whp car good for 150,000 more miles? Occasionally I may take it on a road trip, but this car is usually just a weekend driver with the occasional street racing just for craps Hope I've made sense in all of the rambling. Any experienced opinions would be appreciated!
The car is perfect..streetable..doesn't overheat..etc, and honestly..its still quick even though its stock. I could drive it coast to coast..and not worry about any problems. I worry about loosing that reliability. I dont want to afford really screwing something up, especially with the ls7, and especially with such a nice car.
Some of you may say, then why boost it? Leave it alone! (Though that isn't the purpose of the thread I will entertain said question). I'm young, a few friends have boosted tuners (600-800hp cars), and they are a LOT of fun. So why not?! (Don't even think about suggesting me get a tuner. Sorry, not me.)
My ultimate question in all of this, is how reliable is the ls7 bottom end boosted at say 600-650whp (probably 700-750 crank hp)? Can it be a matter of, install, 5lbs of boost, tune, and have an equally reliable streetable 600whp car good for 150,000 more miles? Occasionally I may take it on a road trip, but this car is usually just a weekend driver with the occasional street racing just for craps Hope I've made sense in all of the rambling. Any experienced opinions would be appreciated!
#9
Team Owner
Heads first. Might as well do a mild cam at the same time. Then a mild blower setup and make ~650rwhp.
I've had heads/cam, cammed, heads/cam blower.
Heat is an issue but can be overcome.
I've had heads/cam, cammed, heads/cam blower.
Heat is an issue but can be overcome.
#11
Team Owner
You can achieve 550-600hp normally aspirated and remain fun to drive. Anything above that and drivabilty suffers.
The #1 thing in adding a blower is not to get greedy. To many of us think just another 100hp and pretty soon you overwhelm the OEM parts and end up driving a grenade.
The weak links are the exhaust valves, the cast alum pistons, the thin wall bore liners, the clutch, and if pushed too hard the cooling system. A good plan for adding boost should address these systems.
The #1 thing in adding a blower is not to get greedy. To many of us think just another 100hp and pretty soon you overwhelm the OEM parts and end up driving a grenade.
The weak links are the exhaust valves, the cast alum pistons, the thin wall bore liners, the clutch, and if pushed too hard the cooling system. A good plan for adding boost should address these systems.
#12
Team Owner
I had a 550rwhp cammed car, 580rwhp heads/cam car, and 700hp blower stock block car, and now a 1100+rwhp blower car.
The 700hp car drove closest to stock, best mileage, no issues. 1100 right behind that, then 580 then 550. A 600-700rwhp blower car will drive SOOOOO much nicer than a NA car, get better mileage, no low RPM quirks, etc. The only way I would do another 550+na build would be for a road course car. For street or straight line, forced induction all day.
Heads need to be done either way.
The 700hp car drove closest to stock, best mileage, no issues. 1100 right behind that, then 580 then 550. A 600-700rwhp blower car will drive SOOOOO much nicer than a NA car, get better mileage, no low RPM quirks, etc. The only way I would do another 550+na build would be for a road course car. For street or straight line, forced induction all day.
Heads need to be done either way.
#13
Melting Slicks
I had a 550rwhp cammed car, 580rwhp heads/cam car, and 700hp blower stock block car, and now a 1100+rwhp blower car.
The 700hp car drove closest to stock, best mileage, no issues. 1100 right behind that, then 580 then 550. A 600-700rwhp blower car will drive SOOOOO much nicer than a NA car, get better mileage, no low RPM quirks, etc. The only way I would do another 550+na build would be for a road course car. For street or straight line, forced induction all day.
Heads need to be done either way.
The 700hp car drove closest to stock, best mileage, no issues. 1100 right behind that, then 580 then 550. A 600-700rwhp blower car will drive SOOOOO much nicer than a NA car, get better mileage, no low RPM quirks, etc. The only way I would do another 550+na build would be for a road course car. For street or straight line, forced induction all day.
Heads need to be done either way.
#14
Drifting
It really depends on what you "need." Do you need the 650 number or would a close to 600 NA car be enough. Heads can is much cheaper than FI but depending on setup/fuel etc depends on how close or over that 600 mark you get.
#15
Team Owner
Arizona...
A 575+ heads cam car will not drive like stock. A 700hp blower can.
A 600-630rwhp blower car is nothing but an ECS kit bolted on for ~$5500 plus heads
Cam car for that power will be a big cam, intake, TB, headers, etc. Cost gets fairly close. Cam is cheaper in the end, but it isn't as big as many people make it out to be.
Basically got to decide on what you want. Both are great options.
I would do heads and a mild cam, make 520-530na, then when you want more, add the blower and you have a solid 650-700rwhp car. Just keep the cam small and blower friendly.
A 575+ heads cam car will not drive like stock. A 700hp blower can.
A 600-630rwhp blower car is nothing but an ECS kit bolted on for ~$5500 plus heads
Cam car for that power will be a big cam, intake, TB, headers, etc. Cost gets fairly close. Cam is cheaper in the end, but it isn't as big as many people make it out to be.
Basically got to decide on what you want. Both are great options.
I would do heads and a mild cam, make 520-530na, then when you want more, add the blower and you have a solid 650-700rwhp car. Just keep the cam small and blower friendly.
#16
Its hard to beat a twin screw Edebrock system. Street legal and at 6 psi will run like a stocker until you mash the go pedal. Professionally installed can come with a warranty.
#17
Team Owner
I rather do bolt ons and a mild cam than the eforce system.
#18
Pro
#20
I do not like power adders, in general. They complicate things, add failure points, and can be downright irritating when they don't behave the way they should. N/A is always my preferred route, up till the point where you need a power adder to remain competitive. Then you don't have any other option. I friggin hate spray. Hate it, hate it, hate it….. I’ll take boost over nitrous, and take turbos over boost; but turbos do pose installation challenges and it takes time to get them to spool up.
The one benefit boost has (as long as you aren’t being stupid with it), is it can build a down right gorgeous torque curve, while maintaining excellent lower rpm manners.