Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

Heads are better discussed over the phone ideally (call me old fashioned!) but I understand having the info at your fingertips is certainly convenient. Assuming I slow down a little this winter I plan on investing more time in the website.

That said let me hit your immediate questions now.....guides are the PM type....same as whats installed in the TFS 260 castings (no sense removing them)....springs are dual and made by PAC racing....my standard" supplied spring good till .650 lift or so which is perfect with most of the endurance style lobes I have been selecting for my customers. Retainers are titanium....i use the OEM TFS solid stem exhaust valve which is excellent and reasonably lightweight (96 grams or so).....on the intake I use a hollow stem lightweight stainless valve that only weighs a few grams more than the much smaller exhaust valve (98-99 grams). It's an excellent choice for most applications and saves you guys an enormous expense looking at going with a custom Ti intake.

Even that recent build featured here in another thread (which broke a heads cam record on a popular dyno in Nor Cal) with the aggressive cam etc. is running this set-up and the valve control is perfect to the 7300 or so when the rev limiter cuts in (which in that package is arguably 100-200 early).

I have basically engineered a reasonably affordable complete package that almost works better than the sum of its parts but as I have stated in a few other threads, I have been working on this a long time and its exactly the type of work I used to do for AFR when I was heading up all their product design and development work.

Silverton (or anyone else interested), if you would like more info I would encourage you to email me or pick up the phone

Best contact number is my cell which is (661)714-1317 or hit me up via email at mamomotorsports@yahoo.com



Cheers,
Tony

Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

Forgot to touch on the rockers....

I worked directly with Yella Terra and had them design a rocker system for my new LS7 heads....two of them actually....one for a HR system (non adjustable) and the other for an SR system with an adjuster (so you could set valve lash).

Pictures speak a thousand words right!



I waited months for these to be complete....finally have some inventory of both style (pile on the right is for my new LS7 heads....the HR style...SR is a different P/N)



Regards,
Tony

Silverton

Would bronze guides and Ti/Mo intake and exhaust valves be an option? I'm looking at the Torquer 116 or G7X1 cam with (I believe) < 0.650 lift.

Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

I wouldn't change the guide material but we could opt for lighter valves....honestly its an expensive upgrade with minimal benefits besides being able to say your running lighter valves.

My intake valve I designed is the same weight as a lighter weight solid stem (much smaller) exhaust valves....if your running the proper lifters, rockers, and valves springs (very important) to provide adequate valve control for a solids stem (97 gram) exhaust valve, the same parts will also properly control the same weight intake valve just as well (my hollow stem 2.205 intake only weighs 98 grams vs close to 120 for solid stem). Its the exact same thing as far as the springs and everything else is concerned. In fact selecting the correct valvetrain really depends on the heavier of the two valves....if half your valves float its not much worse than all of them floating.....either way your power curve is immediately flat lining or dropping lower once accurate valve motion is an issue.

The package you guys might have seen the results posted recently that broke a heads cam record on a popular dyno in Nor Cal had my complete engineered package including the much more cost effective hollow stem intake valves.....didn't seem to hamper that engine from laying down some serious numbers

For those who missed the thread....

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...d-install.html

We can better discuss this over the phone for those not following my line of thought here (and still interested in my new heads), but I hope most of you are following what I'm trying to convey.....its very important and it just makes sense

Silverton.....let me help you with the cam profile as well.....lobe intensity is another important aspect and I have a nice selection of lobes (some of them I worked direct with Comp Cams guru) to develop specifically for these heads. No one knows what you need for a camshaft like the guy designing the cylinders heads and the rest of the complete package....the more you let me be the "Project Manager" the better your results will be. Don't forget this is the stuff I did for AFR for a decade and a half....designed their product as well as handle the R&D for most of the rest of the components (including manifold and camshaft design) to help best compliment their heads.

Regards,
Tony

MickVette

I'm a huge fan of your work and didn't even know it. AFR was the only head I would buy for my last street-strip car. (I built it in 2002-2003 and raced up through 2006). I was able to do so much more with so much less than others that I was often called a cheater and accused of hiding nitrous in my car on several occasions. Great work Tony. Thank you for helping me get into the magazines on several occasions from the winners circle!

Josh B.

I'm also interested in a set. Do you have any there with my name on them?

Funny, I've been following AFR heads since 2000 when I had a fox mustang, read about the huge gains going from GT40 heads to the AFR 185. Bought some AFR 185's in 2004, then a set of AFR 205's in 2005. The company was light years ahead of the company.

MickVette

Mine was a fox notch Mustang. I built a little 306 stock block AFR 165 head engine then built my own turbo kit for it. It was a nice running little car back in the day.

http://www.angelfire.com/fl5/qa1/ (this page starts at the bottom)

The AFR 165 Race heads came out just as I was finishing my build. I'm guessing that was Tony's masterpiece back then.

The next engine I was building for it was a more serious 349 ci A4 block twin turbo version with AFR 225 heads and solid roller cam. Life happened and I never did get to finish that build.

Now I'm playing with a few more cubes and N/A. LOL That Mustang is in a storage unit patiently waiting.

Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

No problem....your welcome and Im glad to help

I actually tuned up a few of the older "Renegade" SBF products that AFR had out on the market already when I got there in 2001. Then around 2009 I want to say I completely redesigned the entire product line....a clean sheet effort and the flow numbers and performance really took a leap forward. They dubbed that line their Renegade line of SBF products and those designs are still powering the SBF crowd today.

In fact I think my best work there was the 195 cc product I designed.....I got about 320 CFM from that small port and it worked fantastic on anything you installed it on. A perfect head for a 331 or 347 stroker but some guys used them on 408's who were looking for brutal bottom end and midrange while still having good potential in peak power (600+ with that type of airflow). They were all good but IMO that was one of the most efficient heads I ever designed.

Good stuff....of course my efforts of late has been all the LS7 related gear I have been optimizing and on a personal note is something I am very passionate about because I consider the LS7 platform the best factory engine platform (N/A) ever produced no matter what brand we are discussing and the fact it was installed in arguably the most purist sports car ever makes it all the more appealing.

Lightweight and big cube N/A power is just the right formula....I think GM should have stuck with that formula for the C7Z and just pushed the envelope some on an engine that's clearly under utilized from the factory (the stock LS7 platform). Proof of that is how well it responds to the right mods.....but keeping the platform lightweight and tweaking the LS7 motor some would have eliminated all of the track overheating problem associated with the 7th Gen boosted models....boost and road racing is NOT a good combination and never will be....too much heat management is required....in an all out race car its alot easier to do but not a street car IMO.

Anyway....Im getting off topic!......Catch you guys later!



-Tony