nuke61

Whether they drop the temperature, they also contain lubes for the pump.

STANG KILLA SS

i dont have a torque wrench so i just make my lugs as tight as i can get them with my 18" 1/2" drive. obviously waaaaay too much. i started snaping studs.
sadly on the back of the vette you cant get the studs out because the parking brake and spindle upright are in the way. you have to remove the wheel hub.
Attachment 48357052

new ARP studs #100-7708
Attachment 48357053

also the car came with vinyl tinted taillights. they were pretty dangerous, way to dark and couldnt see any light. instead of paying $250 for LED eagle eye taillights, i decided to make my own for $10.
peeled off the tinted vinyl, then ordered some high gloss black vinyl on ebay. measured the tail lights and offset the circle 1/2" and cut out the black to let the outer ring be the stock transperant red plastic.

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Viola! crappy cell phone pic
Attachment 48357056


Headed of to the NCCC autocross in waco and Baylor Stadium
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Attachment 48357058

there were alot more serious racers at this one.
had my pressures too low at 32 at first. car was sliding and squelling pretty bad. got them back up to 34 range and was much better.
was insanely hot. heat advisory 102* with no wind.
I was running out of gear at the end of the 3rd parking lot, had to lift a bit early there.
my exhaust poped off again. put it back on twice. then gave up. once i got home i slotted the end of the pipes so the clamps could compress the tube and bite into the other tube on the slip joints.

also got code P0050. 02 sensor heater circuit. luckily i bought this little OBD2 reader i keep in my console for $25 bucks. best tool ever to instantly know whats wrong with the car when away from home. lots of people had good luck with it. i use the free "torque" app to access it and get live data from the car.



my best run

Mordeth

Good job and thanks for the update. One thing that I seriously don't understand though is why, with all the work you perform on your car, how you drive it and $$ you spend, that you don't own a $40 torque wrench? After the brakes, the wheels and tires are literally the most important safety items on a track.

I am at the track every week with my car, and when I see guys muscling their lugs on with breaker bars I just shake my head and avoid them at all costs. You put yourself and others at risk. There is a yield point on a bolt that is to be torqued. It is where the bolt has been stretched past its elastic limit and can no longer spring back to its original shape. As you stretch the bolt and it pulls back this then creates something called a clamp load. If you over torque the bolt it can be stretched past it's yield point and can't maintain the clamp load.

Failure usually results, and a wheel runoff crash ensues. I have seen it happen myself, and have no pity at all for these guys.

I would invest $40-$50 and torque your lugs to 100 lb-ft.

docrocket1967

Awesome thread man

STANG KILLA SS

great news, results from the autocross were just posted!
i won 2nd in class!
unfortunatly my cam bumped me WAY up in the classes (internal motor work)

but im super stoked with my results, i was keeping pace with the cars on slicks

Maxharvard

I see an SLC!

I built one myself!

I have videos of it here. FUn car

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCac...uEfISr3ktwQW-A

Mordeth

Congrat's! That is quite an accomplishment and not an easy task. Very competitive in those higher classes. Good job man.

STANG KILLA SS

Well the day has come. They have closed TWS
they had one last open track day on August 20th. i didnt want to go with the 101 temps, but knew i had to go the final time.

showed up at 7am for the drivers meeting. they warned us grip was way down and no one would be setting there new personal bests. and they were right. plus my tires were on the last weekend so i was really down on grip. i could DEFINITELY tell. i did flip the tires for this event to at least have fresh shoulders, but it didnt help.

Attachment 48356835

i was watching some lap record videos on YT and have also noticed i lost a bit of time taking my old camaro line into T1. so i tried the low/faster line on the this last event. didnt go so well. with so little grip, practice time, and ***** to pull it off right, it didnt save me any time. but i stuck to it for most of the 6 sessions.

this beautiful NSX was there. sadly just a poser, never moved, but looked amazing. perfect condition car.
Attachment 48356836

temps were 99-101 all day. i was having to do alot of cool down laps. especially in the afternoon.

a ZL1 1LE also showed up! i didnt think these things were even on the street yet. and for sure didnt think id ever see one in person. he was still working on his 500 break in miles.

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cooling off between rounds
Attachment 48356842

some clips from my laps. not the best with the lack of grip, but i was glad to be out there one last time

and the end of the day, they said the corner marshals were melting. so they did two back to back 45 minute sessions, i did them both. well near the end of the second one coming into 3 the car just didnt slow, luckily there is run off there and i was able to dive into there safely. smoke started pouring out of the right front. i decided to back up and stay there as not to ruin everyone elses run with a red flag on the final session ever. you can see this at the end of the vid.

got home and i guess my hawks didnt like all that heat on the last two back to back sessions in the 101* heat. they were toast down to the backing plates. rotors were completely heat cracked from every hole too.

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not the way i wanted to end it, but fitting.
im gonna really miss that place, its been my entire life for the last 2 and a half years.....
Attachment 48356845

racer778

Cory,
what editor do you use for your Go Pro videos?? I thought about going to TWS on the 20th to try to get a better Lap time with Scrubs then I saw the forecast.... going to COTA the end of Sep are you going to go to the event? Its being held by Edge Addicts.

STANG KILLA SS

i use Pinnacle Studio. an old one.
naa i cant afford COTA.

STANG KILLA SS

well ive been taking some time off after TWS closed permanatly to store Hurricane Harvey flood cars


but starting to tinker with the car again. decided to install a quick release race wheel to help aid entry and exit with the fixed seats.

pulled off the airbag first by inserting two allen wrenches in the two holes on the side of the wheel. push in to move the spring pins/rods and it pops right off. amazing how little was holding it in.


couple people said you could just wiggle the wheel off, that was bull. so i bought this little cheap puller and ground it down to fit into the two tiny holes in the pot metal wheel center. it broke imidiatly.


after removing 3 screws for the horn buttons, i realized i could get the sheetmetal center out of the way, and get a real 2/3 jaw puller on it.


worked great and came right off.


picked up NRG 2.5 quick release and hub for the C6 splines.


both the factory spline and NRG stuff was well marked for up/alignment.
hub on


unfortunatly there wasnt enough of a cavity in the hub for the large plug and two air bag plugs. since i like to make everything reversable i stoped and ordered a 1" spacer (1/2" would have worked) to create a larger void for the plugs to stay.


made this adapter with solid wire pins to spade connectors, to adapt the factory plug to the spades on all the NRG hubs


stuck it into the factory connector, note the wire on either side of the connector are different colors! do not match. so you have to really trace them out to make sure your pluging into the right pins.


found a cheap Chinese knock off of a Momo wheel on ebay.
at this point i stoped taking pics. ran into a snag with the wheel/horn button, that kept grounding itself to the hub and either not fitting or later setting the horn off driving me and my neighbors crazy. finally got that sorted 45 minutes later and rest was a breeze.








i took some before and after measurements
stock wheel: 19" from wheel to seat (plus width of tape measure)
"Momo" with NRG hubs, PLUS 1" spacer: 18.25" (plus width of tape measure)

STANG KILLA SS

spring is here. time to get back at it again.

been tired of the deafin your hearing after 15 minutes loud exhaust. i like loud but this makes you not be able to hear the person talking to you in your face, and thats after the motors off.
stage 1. vibration dampning. most people think dynamat is for sounds. its for vibrations, that cause resonance. the truck floor of the vette is a giant plastic bass drum.
i picked up the Noico mat from amazon.
its slightly thicker than Dynomat, and alot cheaper.
this 18sqft kit was perfect for the vettes trunk area.

Attachment 48351337

Attachment 48351338

i also did the vertical areas behind the seats where it transitions from trunk floor height to floor boards heights. these panels are actually steel unlike the trunk floor.
Attachment 48351339

i did before and after testing. twice using 2 different cell phone apps (im sure there not that accurate as a decibel meter, but all i was after was relative difference)
i did idle, 1500rpm, 2000, 2500, 3000, part thottle under load, and WOT.
i wont post them all but idle was 79 dbs, and load and WOT were both 85 dbs. both before and after the Noico mat. was a total waste of time and the 12 pounds it added to the car. obviously vibes werent part of my problem.

previously i removed the panel below the radiator to let air in from below, as well as from front grill. after testing it wasnt better or worse, but i decided to go back to the way GM intended it. with a bit of an improvement.
with the factory panel gone
Attachment 48353641

with aluminum i made to bridge the gap from the black bar where the factory panel attaches and to the radiator. ie so no air can slip underneith the radiator, all must pass threw it. there was a good 1-2" gap. and air will take the path of least resisance. especially with the rear tilt rad.
Attachment 48353642

and with factory panel added to that. now all air must come threw grill and pass threw rad.
Attachment 48353643

STANG KILLA SS

decided i wanted to run a staggered setup this year. 315/335s. this meant new wheels. decided to get my first ever set of custom forged wheels. went with forgestar as they were the only remotely affordable company. i waited 3 months for there Black friday sale and then jumped in.
using my old 18x10.5 repros and some spacers. i got the specs worked out as to what i wanted. 18X11 fronts and 18x12 rears, super deep concave, with the appropriate backspacing.
sadly the CF5 design i wanted wasnt available in 13" rears.
hit up 5 Corvette forum vendors that sold them. told them the sizes and specs i wanted. only 1 vendor, "Get Your Wheels", took the time to work with me and my specs, even getting there tech and a Z06 to take some measurements as well. everyone wanted to sell me a safe +38m for the fronts. i knew this would stick out of the fenders. not acceptable. between the two of us measureing we found that up to +50mm would be safe to clear everything. and have no to little rubbing on the brake ducts at full lock. i decided on 45mm. right in between. if i had to do it again. i might do closer to 50mm. but had no way to be sure. so wanted some safetly margin. they fit great with no stick out.
On the rears i went with the GM +59mm from the stock 12" rears. wish i would have gone less. sticking the wheel out closer to the edge of the wheel well. there tucked a bit. easy fix with some 3/16" spacers i already had.
"Get your wheels" also priced match AND beat another vendors lowest price from the bunch. AND send me free black locking lug nuts and tool.
took another 3.5 months to have them machined and done.....
they arrived!!!!


test fits




tons o BBK clearance


a week before mine were done, i found out the forgestars werent hub centric. but that rings were available. luckily these were included. center caps too. sadly the centric rings wouldnt sit far enough inside the barrel. so the wheel wouldnt fully seat and sit flat. had to grind most of the outer bevel lip off the centric ring so the wheel mount surface could sit flat.


one wheel had a chip right at the center cap bore, and looked like there was more black powdercoat under it. like it was repowdercoated once. also that wheel only the center cap wouldnt fit right. it was too tight. again like it had been powdercoated twice. closing the tolerances.

wrapped the wheels in Rival S and got them mounted!
those 335s look SO good from the rear!

STANG KILLA SS

NCCC Autocross!
unfortunately my cam always bumps me way up in the classes (internal motor work) even though a stock C7 Z06 has 150 hp on me.

Attachment 48353628

Attachment 48353629

loved this C3 with the fender flares, lemans headlights, 6" lip CCW classics, and it sounded goooood.
Attachment 48353630

never seen this color, camera and clouds couldnt pick it up. i looked REAL close in all the cracks. it didnt appear to be a wrap.
Attachment 48353631

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ended up have my O2 sensors throw burned out heater codes, half way threw the day, and 1 lean code. in the first vid you can actually hear the motor running rough at mid throttle. i raced anyway.

vid of me testing the limits of the new tires. lol too much.

ended up winning 1st in my class, and 2nd for the overall fastest time of the day. Bested by a great driver in a C7 Z06 on slicks.
my last run of the day was my best. this is it. 48.7

Mordeth

Very nice! Great driving and congrats on 1st place. When are you going to put her back on a road course?

STANG KILLA SS

Thanks!

i hope soon. AX isnt really my thing.
most likely be MSR Cresson. gotta do it soon before the deathly Texas summer gets here.

pjazz

I was curious if you also covered your rear wheel wells? I used the same sound deadener. I didn't measure it but I could tell on long drives I didn't get hardly any drone afterwards.

STANG KILLA SS

i did not. i was only concerned with exhaust noise. nothing else. i knocked on them and due to there curved shape, are quite strong, dont "thump" or vibrate, so i found it unnecessary.

pjazz

Well sorry it didn't help. I will continue to believe it did help me because before I had to turn the volume up on my stereo just to over come the drone. I do not have that problem anymore.

STANG KILLA SS

well after getting the two o2 heater codes i ordered new ones. while i waited for them i wrapped the headers from the o2s to as far forward as i could reach under the car. to try to help keep the exhaust hotter back to the o2s. picked up 100' of DEI Titanium wrap. was my first time attempting wrapping.

Attachment 48349813

Attachment 48349814

also wrapped the x pipe to aid in footwell and tunnel heat. the 100' was perfect amount.
Attachment 48349815

short version of long story:
o2s were supposed to be delivered friday, the night before my local autocross. well by 4pm they werent delievered and i got nervous. ordered another pair locally for backup.
i get home and pair # 1 is delivered. i open boxes and the plugs are wrong. turns out i ordered rears thinking the heaters would be better, not thinking the plugs might be different. wires were all different colors, couldnt even re wire the old plug on.
no worries i have a back up set waiting.... go check it. sombitch rear square plug too. 5 o clock panic. i called every Oreillys, Advanced, Autozone, AND dealer ship within 4 cities from me and NO ONE had front O2s. all had rears. finally tracked down one 1 hour south of me, and another 30 minutes west of me opposite directions. a 3 hour road trip later i had the 2 unicorns in hand. pulled late nighter in the dark and get them in.
clear codes and test fire. codes come back. by this time its 11pm and im done. come inside to find a lucky post by someone on corvette forum saying exposed wires will pop a fuse and give O2 heater codes. i did find melted O2 extention wires i re-covered. went out and sure enough that fuse is blown. but too late to retest. replace it and fire it up in the morning with no issues or codes.
so theres a good chance my old O2s were never bad, just melted extension wires poping the fuse and giving the heater codes.......

autocross time!
unfortunatly i was the last class of the day. my first run didnt start until 1:30. fastest time of the day to that point was a 41.2 after 4 rounds. i went out on my first pass and ran a 39.9
i couldnt believe it. and neither could everyone else. racers and crowd was cheering me on all day. and asking for ride alongs. was a TON of fun!
Attachment 48353452

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couple of outside views sent to me


ended up having the fastest RWD and overall time of the day.
im at the very bottom
Attachment 48353456

last/fastest run of the day: 38 flat!

not sure why i was stabbing the throttle like a monkey threw those first series of lefts. i had been smooth there all day. i was getting tired i guess. was able to make the time back up in the 3 final 180s thanks to a tip to slow down more and slide less. it worked!