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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
I didnt go for the stealth look because I am not sure what I will be doing as far as the engine bay yet. I may do a coil relocation, I may paint the coil covers, who knows. I am focusing on getting the car running and then I can do asthetics. I figure I am going to have to pull the intake to tighten the manifold clamshell bolts at some point anyways. I can remove the MSD lettering myself with some time with the dremel and my painter can paint it whatever color I want. Wasn't worth the money to me for Tony to do it. The $1600 was enough haha.
I will take some pictures of the Trunnions when they arrive.
Simply taking some paint remover to take the red paint off of the raised letters goes a long way to toning the look down on that thing.
Correct me if I'm wrong but the balancer doesn't need to line up with the mark on the crankshaft , that's why they didn't bother lining them up when they put it back together when it was modified last time , there's no keyway so it can press on in any orientation
Correct me if I'm wrong but the balancer doesn't need to line up with the mark on the crankshaft , that's why they didn't bother lining them up when they put it back together when it was modified last time , there's no keyway so it can press on in any orientation
It doesn't HAVE to be, but I personally would put it on in the same orientation as factory.
More progress last night. A new kobalt t40 bit and some heat with the propane torch and the remaining cam retainer bolts came out. Pulled the lifters and trays out, removed the cam, cleaned the new cam and lubed it up with Lucas assembly oil and in she went.
Picked up my heads from the machine shop. One of them was evidently warped! All set now. Nice and clean
Old cam out. Looks great.
Various fasteners and gaskets
New cam going in!
Cam retainer plate back on. Drop of blue loc-tite and torqued to 11ft/lbs. Cam sprocket and timing chain back on, timing marks lined up.
Question. My ARP cam bolts have fastener assembly lube to achieve proper torque, but many people say to use loctite on these. I assume I cannot use both....What has everyone else done?
Also, when it comes to reinstalling timing cover, do most people leave the bolts loose, install the harmonic balancer to properly center the cover, and then torque the bolts down?
Same thing happened to me on the lower timing cover/oil pan gasket. It kept me up all night because I thought I was going to have to change the whole gasket. I threw some RTV black on there when I was putting it back together and I have 0 leaks.
As far as the alignment, I put it on loose, used my index finger to feel around the seal and make sure it's even. I tightened the bottom bolts first. Like I said, I have no oil leaks.
3 hours of work tonight, got a lot done but the engine bay looks the same lol.
Originally Posted by jayyyw
Same thing happened to me on the lower timing cover/oil pan gasket. It kept me up all night because I thought I was going to have to change the whole gasket. I threw some RTV black on there when I was putting it back together and I have 0 leaks.
As far as the alignment, I put it on loose, used my index finger to feel around the seal and make sure it's even. I tightened the bottom bolts first. Like I said, I have no oil leaks.
Yeah I used some of my favorite Permatex "The right stuff". Same thing as black RTV, on the entire bottom of the timing cover. Hopefully no leaks.
I also replaced the crank seal with the one that came in my gasket kit. Punched the old one out, pressed the new one in
As far as alignment, I left the timing cover loose, installed the balancer, and then torqued them to 18ft/lbs.
Made my own balancer install tool with some threaded rod and nuts. Worked like a charm. I could only order a minimum of 1 meter of rod, so I will have enough left over to make a few more balancer install tools if people are interested. I then threaded in my old ARP bolt and torqued to 235lbs per ARP instructions.
My CHE trunnions showed up today as well. Nice pieces!
Next is reinstalling the steering rack and other front accessories, and final prep on the block and bolt holes for the heads. Any suggestions? The block is already pretty clean just with a razor blade, was thinking of using some wd40 and 400 grit sandpaper on a sanding block to get a nice finish. Any tips to clean the pistons? Been using carb clean and a brush with ok results so far.
Also out of curiosity, how does the timing chain receive lubrication in the LS7? I couldnt figure it out.
I wouldn't take sand paper to the block at all. I used brake cleaner and a razor blade and it worked out perfect. I didn't really need to clean the pistons but I guess u can use some brake cleaner on that. I had a shop vac always on when I was cleaning the block too. as far as the bolt holes...I put a straw on the end of the vacuum and made sure there was no crud or liquid in the holes at all. since you are going e 85 I think that should clean up the pistons pretty good too.
I really like the CHE trunnion kit. looks exactly like the new straub version my friend installed
Worked a little more this evening. Got the rack back in, power steering lines hooked back up etc. Also assembled my ARH X pipe and installed my Borla atak exhaust. Tomorrow I will do some final prep on the deck, clean and chase all head bolt holes, and probably check PTV clearance. While the heads are off i figured my new 2" longtubes should slide in from the top easy, and i can zip tie them out of the way when i put the heads back on. Can anyone confirm my starter wiring is correct? I pulled a few wires off when I pulled my 1 7/8 headers, and the tape I used to label them fell off lol. I know the block ground is correct, but cannot remember if both the zero gauge wire and the small wire went on the post they are on, or if there is supposed to be something else on that other post?
Got my CHE trunnions installed last night. Also finished prepping the deck surface with a final pass with the razor blade and some 400 grit sandpaper with wd40 as a lubricant. Modified two extra LS7 lifters to be solid to check PTV clearance. Applied play doh to the piston, installed my old head gasket (I will subtract the .010 for the thinner cometic I will be running) and bolted up rockers and pushrods on the #2 cylinder. I realized that with the rack back in I have no way to get a wrench on the crank bolt to rotate the motor, so I have been using the starter relay to "bump" the motor over. It works I guess. I bought a harbor freight remote switch, but Im not sure if I made the right connections on the starter, couldnt get it to work. Anyways, turned the motor 2 complete revolutions. Pretty sure I did it right and it looks like I have gobs of clearance (.250+ intake and .200+ exhaust). Not that I was worried with a .030 mill and .040 gaskets, just wanted to be sure. Anyone know what stock PTV clearances are approximately?
Also snaked my ARH lontubes in while the heads are off and zip tied them out of the way. Easy peasy. Tonight I should fishing chasing bolt holes, final cleaning, and the heads will go on. Need to find the AC belt which I seem to have misplaced. Driving me crazy!
Got my CHE trunnions installed last night. Also finished prepping the deck surface with a final pass with the razor blade and some 400 grit sandpaper with wd40 as a lubricant. Modified two extra LS7 lifters to be solid to check PTV clearance. Applied play doh to the piston, installed my old head gasket (I will subtract the .010 for the thinner cometic I will be running) and bolted up rockers and pushrods on the #2 cylinder. I realized that with the rack back in I have no way to get a wrench on the crank bolt to rotate the motor, so I have been using the starter relay to "bump" the motor over. It works I guess. I bought a harbor freight remote switch, but Im not sure if I made the right connections on the starter, couldnt get it to work. Anyways, turned the motor 2 complete revolutions. Pretty sure I did it right and it looks like I have gobs of clearance (.250+ intake and .200+ exhaust). Not that I was worried with a .030 mill and .040 gaskets, just wanted to be sure. Anyone know what stock PTV clearances are approximately?
Also snaked my ARH lontubes in while the heads are off and zip tied them out of the way. Easy peasy. Tonight I should fishing chasing bolt holes, final cleaning, and the heads will go on. Need to find the AC belt which I seem to have misplaced. Driving me crazy!
I'm sure it was for piece of mind but I'm curious as to why you checked PTV clearance as there are several people running close to 700 lift cams and .050 mill on heads with stock short block and no issues ? But everything looks great ! Headers looks nice from what I can see of them and the trunions look sweet too !! I'm waiting on my parts to ship out from AHP this week and should have them mid next week , I did the 3 inch muffler mod and changed tranny fluid and basically cleaned a bunch of stuff while I've been waiting , I want to drive my car bad !!! I go to the Dyno on the 21st , I'm really looking forward to your numbers to see how much you pick up from your new combo !!
I'm sure it was for piece of mind but I'm curious as to why you checked PTV clearance as there are several people running close to 700 lift cams and .050 mill on heads with stock short block and no issues ? But everything looks great ! Headers looks nice from what I can see of them and the trunions look sweet too !! I'm waiting on my parts to ship out from AHP this week and should have them mid next week , I did the 3 inch muffler mod and changed tranny fluid and basically cleaned a bunch of stuff while I've been waiting , I want to drive my car bad !!! I go to the Dyno on the 21st , I'm really looking forward to your numbers to see how much you pick up from your new combo !!
No real reason other than peace of mind and I have never done it before. Not a bad thing to learn and only cost me two lifters. Headers are used, but they are ceramic coated and I got them for half the price of new so can't argue! I am hoping to finish assembly this week and while I wait for my MSD to arrive in the coming weeks I can clean everything as well. All the spilled oil, power steering fluid and coolant has made a mess of the underside of the car and my garage floor!
What tranny fluid are you running? I see a lot of people choose amsoil torque drive but I called texas drivetrain performance (they built my tr6060) and he recommended non-synthetic ATF?!
I runs amsoil torque drive ATF. Works great. Bone stock t56 was living a nice long happy life at 1000+rwhp. Shifted great, no issues. I would not run anything else.
No real reason other than peace of mind and I have never done it before. Not a bad thing to learn and only cost me two lifters. Headers are used, but they are ceramic coated and I got them for half the price of new so can't argue! I am hoping to finish assembly this week and while I wait for my MSD to arrive in the coming weeks I can clean everything as well. All the spilled oil, power steering fluid and coolant has made a mess of the underside of the car and my garage floor!
What tranny fluid are you running? I see a lot of people choose amsoil torque drive but I called texas drivetrain performance (they built my tr6060) and he recommended non-synthetic ATF?!
I use Mobil 1 synthetic ATF , it's tried and true , used it in my cobras t-56 for years and worked perfectly , and the people that built your tranny probably use something like a synchromesh fluid (which is not synthetic) guarantee it
02-28-2017, 12:52 PM
Not that I was worried with a .030 mill and .040 gaskets, just wanted to be sure. Anyone know what stock PTV clearances are approximately?
