whatcop?

The new boosted one. Got it from vengeance

Hockyz

Have any pictures of your ported stock snout by chance? Mine is off and I am trying to decide if I want to mess with taking the grinder to it.

lt1z

I have tried it and picked up power with a 2.45/14% lower combo making 20 psi (different cam). 23,326 rpm at 6700rpm

The OP states he is running a 2.175/10%, 25,105 rpm at 6700rpm

So that is almost 2000 more rpm of blower speed over where I saw gains.

Granted the car is running much better then it did and the blower port was free so he (The OP) may be happy leaving it as is.

The boosted version of the 102 is a must at these boost levels

whatcop?

I also have a monster cam, mast heads and am a 1000' feet up.

Redgts1982

You going to be ready for clayton ?
Unfortunately or fortunately depending how you look at it , I moved over to the dark side with TT gallardo , I miss my Zr1 very much and may buy another one depending on how this year goes. Ron and those guys treated me right, good bunch.

-Chris

Can'tHave2MuchHP

TT Gallardo, that sounds fun

whatcop?

I should be. Nitrous is scheduled for beginning of March. Ron and all his crew at vengeance are top notch.

Redgts1982

Good deal , we'll see you there then

Redgts1982

Fun...SCARY...but fun

prochargedbird

Nice props to Vengence but there many great shops out there. And there's always someone bigger and badder. So I hope to run into this baddest ZR 1 on the planet at one of the events this year. 👍

Glad you recovered from the devastation thats the worst feeling seeing your car on fire been there.

whatcop?

What kind of power?

Redgts1982

1250whp on kill setting

whatcop?

If we end up being at a 1/2 together I'd love to line them up together. What should it do in the 1/2?

Redgts1982

I have 2 other buddies with stage 3 cars, Jason's is stage 3+ e-gear he ran best 211 with clutch slipping over 1300hp, Johns is 6 spd like mine and same power level, his best run was 190, tires spinning at 170
I would be happy with 190 or anything over that really

What do you think your car will run now ? what was your best before hand

-Chris

whatcop?

John Horney right?


Long time ago with a slipping clutch and only making 750whp it ran 169 repeatedly.


I think on spray now it should be with Gregs car if not faster since I will be spraying a significant amount more and he ran a 191 so your guess is as good as mine.

Redgts1982

191 is moving, you put a rollbar in your car yet ?
and my buddy is John Lomant , not John H
John Lomant is fastlane and a platinum sponsor

whatcop?

Nah just have a harness bar and seats. Oh duh I know John. I forgot he got one recently.

INTRCUL

Been following the death and rebirth of Smores' since the beginning and can't wait to see what she'll do. It's guys like Peter and Greg that not only further the hobby, they're also a source of knowledge to us mere humans who can only dream of doing what they're doing.

It's awesome that you can still generate that much boost with a big cam. So what are you doing to handle all the heat? I've always believed the biggest limiting factor on the LS9 are the tiny intercooler bricks. To keep our sexy low hood line, that's where the compromise was made. If you want to road race it this could be an issue. Trunk mounted ice tanks help with short term drag racing if you can freeze everything before the run, but running for 20+ minute sessions on a course is more about the size of the bricks to prevent constant limp mode, and the HE to bleed off the extra heat your crazy motor will make.

I'm dying for someone (ahem you) to ditch our pathetic bricks, fab a new lid, and pipe in some serious air-to-air intercoolers. Or just raise the hood line and put in a bigger lid and some real bricks and keep the water-to-air setup like the new Lingenfelter monster or the OEM Hellcat setup.

whatcop?

Currently I have the VR HX, a straight pass HX under the car, stock tank, LPE Stewart pump and KP tank in the rear. It hovers 15-20* over ambient and that's without ice and going through stop and go traffic. I haven't beat on her much yet due to it being a new motor but it was in the 60s the other day and I did a 3rd and 4th gear pull and it went up to 95* and as soon as I let off it dropped. I don't think you necessarily need to change the bricks to increase their efficiency... I've been tossing the idea around for awhile now of adding a second LPE Stewart pump in but in parallel with the other pump. If the flow is high enough it will increase the efficiency of the bricks but on the downside the HX may lose efficiency to get rid of heat. But then I sit here and think about our water pumps and they turn somewhere around 35 gpm and they work great. I think the LPE pump right now if I recall correctly is pumping at 12gpm with my setup when I calculated it before. Two pumps would put it right around 18gpm which would be a huge increase. But before I can so that I need to switch out my alternator to a big boy one because the stocker just isn't keeping up as it is.

INTRCUL

Numbers look good so far but I still wonder what the temps will be when under long term load, like a full mile or road coarse work. At the RPM the blower is spinning and the boost the motor is seeing, the temps post blower have to be insane but I would need to see a mapping of the compressor curve to calculate exactly how hot.

OEM cars on a road coarse can easily push past 130 degree IAT2's on an 80 degree day. Some of this might be the IC coolant temps rising over time and I think you already have that under control. The HE's and tank determine how long the system can run under load, but the bricks determine more of the short term numbers. You might be OK if you only hit 95 on a 3-4 pull. I just know how much better everything would be if we could easily add bigger bricks. I look forward to seeing all the data and hope it works out because it's not like we have a lot of options if the bricks did end up being a massive bottleneck.

My ZR is basically stock but I did add a small engine bay IC tank and experimented with ice at a 1/2 mile event. I had some very surprising results. The tank can hold about a gallon so it doubled the system volume. I was running pure water and would drain the tank, fill with ice, cycle the system, and replace the melted ice. There's enough residual engine heat from the previous run that I could only get the IC coolant temps somewhere between 40 and 45 degrees, and most of the tank and top lines were thermally insulated. With a fully cooled off engine, my IAT's would generally be around 100 degrees because the bricks were heat soaking from the block and blower itself. I wasn't getting the benefit of the cold water as I hoped, but it did keep IAT2's basically at the same temp through an entire 0-165mph run. The IC coolant temps were still very cool, almost cold after each run as well,. Only when I started hot lapping did I see 110. This points to something with the bricks themselves, and the block heat having as much influence on IAT2's as the cold water. Don't compare the 100 number to expecting 15-20 degrees above ambient (which was 60 that day). That's a cruising differential and not the same as when drag racing with engine heat soak. I might have been better off idling the whole time to prevent the bricks from baking while the motor was off and will have to try that sometime. Have you or Greg tested a full trunk mounted tank full of ice yet? I think it'll keep the top temps during the run down (like my setup did for me) but what was the IAT2 temp at the start of the run?

Pump wise, I think you may be fine. I can't remember the flow rate on the OEM but I know it's less than a Stewart or LPE. I saw charts sometime in the last year but can't remember the numbers off the top of my head. As long as you maintain at least OEM flow rate the system will work well, but you gotta know what the flow in the actual full system is and not just what the pump can do with nothing connected to it. The "head" is sort of like back pressure for pumps. With upgraded HE's, additional lines to the rear tank, and even the rear tank itself, they all add additional load to the pump and make it harder to maintain whatever it's rated flow rate sitting in a pool would be. Weaker pumps can lose 90% of their max flow rate when things are connected to them, and monster pumps might not even blink. You've definitely added head pressure to the system, but if 12gpm was measured in the system, that's pretty good. If that's the rating when free flowing, you might need a second pump to actually see 12gpm in the working system.

I'd love to go all out on my ZR, but for now will live vicariously through the few of you looking to break records and pass on what little I know.