Originally Posted by Tony Mamo

You can say that again....some guys get that concept sooner than others.

I hate buyers remorse and/or regret. In fact I normally save longer now for a product Im psyched to own rather than buy something I might regret later. How often do you interact with that left pedal on any given drive or outing with the car??!! A premium clutch is a smart place to upgrade no different than any other mod you interface with constantly

My modded RPS BC2 clutch would not look out of place being removed from a million dollar Bugatti Veyron (not suggesting it would hold that type of power of course). Point I'm getting at is the quality and the materials and the workmanship is second to none IMO. It's the Super model of street strip clutches....a very exotic looking piece. Most everything else just looks like "regular" in comparison and the way the design works is fantastic. Cleaner faster shift are effortless....lighter shift effort all the time....no chatter at all....significant gains in RWHP due to such a low MOI but not enough to give you headaches driving it around. It would make close to 15 more RWHP compared to a stock LS7 or a McLoed unit, both of which are just too damn heavy. How much is a mod that adds 15 RWHP worth.....ALOT.....you need to look at this purchase as not just arguably the best clutch on the planet but also a performance upgrade at the very same time....all told with that considered I feel this clutch is a bargain priced where it is....you just have to be sharp enough to see all the inherent value it offers you.

Here is a good thread (minus a few yahoo's who posted in it) going over the merits of the "Mamofied" BC2 I sell.....great pictures so you can see what I mean about how unique and exotic the design is. Like anything else....the better stuff always costs more but pays you back in spades over the long haul and the years of enjoyment the better parts always provide.

A quick pic and a thread below with alot more detail and information




https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ll-review.html




Cheers,
Tony

Originally Posted by jayyyw

Now you have me thinking about not installing my LT1-S I just bought. It's a heavy clutch/flywheel. I don't have any shifting issues with the stock clutch as of right now but I only rev it out to 7k as my cam dies out around 66-6700 and I don't have very much faith in my valvetrain to rev it much higher.

Originally Posted by Michael_D

Doug, how does the organic 9000 hold up? No drag racing, just street use. I've convinced myself the 9000 organic and standard weight FW will be my next clutch.

Originally Posted by Josh B.

1) The BC2 for the C6 is not $2800. You can find them for many hundreds less. Even Tony's CNC machinced version is less.

2) Did you personally install these "failed BC2s"? How can you assure that they weren't improperly installed? Seems like you have to go out on a limb to make that kind of statement.

Originally Posted by Mike's LS3

I run the Mantic 9000 twin organic disc for two simple reason, I do not track my car and wanted to eliminate the chances of chatter. The organic disc is very much like the oem LS7/3 clutch, however Mantic has a more positive feel of engagement, more holding power and forgiving. No chatter or rattle, just smooth engagement. For street use it is a great clutch and holds up well, for track go with cerematlic disc, as others have said.

The Mantic 9000 kit comes with a smaller diameter flywheel to match the clutch assembly which reduces weight, a good thing. You do not use the standard weight FW.

Doug at ECS will included a pilot bushing and remote bleeder with his kits. And your good to go!

Originally Posted by freddyvette

Consider I can get any ofthe clutches i listed previously for well over 500$ less than a BC2, which I have seen fail on cars I've personally done other work on. Disks were worn very prematurely and the purchasers were told "working as intended" by the manufacturer. Yeah, screw that.

Love the fact that you challenge my or my friend's technical ability to follow correct clutch installation procedure. Lets just say that person has put together motors worth more than your entire car. As if I had to ASSURE you that they're garbage so that you can feel better about the money you already spent. Shows how full of yourself you are. Hows that for a limb? Anyways... sorry to the rest of the readers for the rant. I see the same two or three goon squads in just about every other thread and whenever someone disagrees, they question their competency.

For those who care... talked with Geoff at Mantic today trying to get one of the solid hub twins so I can road course it.

Originally Posted by Tony Mamo

The weight of the discs themselves play a big part in this and your moving from a heavy set-up to a heavy set-up so I dont think you will see any improvements in the ability to shift quickly but it probably wont feel any worse either.

Like I said, this clutch offers alot when you start breaking down all the perks it offers and assigning some type of value to them. Hell just the reduction in mass and MOI is worth 12-14 RWHP over stock or a heavy aftermarket unit like you mention. How much would you generally pay for a mod that picks you up that kind of power. I will tell you this that $75 a pony is "par" or perhaps cheap depending on how much power your already making....that's easily worth a grand or so simply viewing that part of the purchase which you might designate under the "power gained from the swap" department (then there are all the other perks related to the various improvements in shifting effort and ability to speed shift etc.).

You get alot for your money if your willing to spend a little more....that's really the bottom line and like most purchases, that offers the end user more value in the end. Value isn't about spending less, its about getting more. In fact I find there is almost always more value in spending more(regarding purchases in general) if your spending your money wisely.

Anyway....like I said....your particular situation shouldn't really feel much different....the largest improvement your making is the ability to hold more power. Would have loved to help you with the modded RPS....if for some reason your thinking about it feel free to contact me and we can get on the phone and discuss in more detail.



-Tony

Originally Posted by trogdor

question for you tony,

if you gain HP from dropping rotating mass... do you not lose torque in that exchange?

Originally Posted by Suns_PSD

To me that's the best kind of power gain as it requires no bigger cams, no more fuel, or heat, etc...

Originally Posted by trogdor

ok so youre not actually gaining from losing rotating mass... it is a more efficient clutch and you are taking less drive train loss... i get you sir thankyou for your response

Originally Posted by trogdor

i do see what youre saying tony and i have no doubt that you are the man in the know... my confusion stems from a member here used to run a speedshop in knoxville TN and he took me to pick up his crank at a machine shop that he had some work done to... he had the lobes knife edged... said it shaved off several pounds off the crank which would make the rotating mass lighter and would give him more horsepower but he said the trade off was he would lose torque?... so i figured this would be the same math or was he incorrect... i never got final results from him on his car as i have moved around a lot and lost touch with him

Originally Posted by trogdor

said it shaved off several pounds off the crank which would make the rotating mass lighter and would give him more horsepower but he said the trade off was he would lose torque?