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[Z06] Help with an Engine Mystery Please

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Old 10-15-2017, 11:29 AM
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63Corvette
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WOW!!! Steve......................sorry to hear that
Old 10-15-2017, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by MTPZ06
No hole in the block, so at least it can be rebuilt. Sucks, but it could always be worse.
This type of **** scares me
Old 10-15-2017, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 0H8Z06
Terrible to hear this kind of stuff... My gut just cringes when I read these kinds of threads.. Just cruising around on a Saturday and then BAM..... I too would seek legal advise regarding this shady dealer.... 300 miles??? I would be homicidal...
I’d already be in jail
Old 10-16-2017, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 63Corvette
WOW!!! Steve......................sorry to hear that
Thanks Garrett!

I'm not done with Certified Motors, LLC Tampa Florida and Joe the owner. But before I start this I really need to know what my damages are. Just a few weeks and this side of it will be known although I must admit waiting to contact him has been difficult for me. And I do know some attorneys in Tampa from my work there so getting help if needed should not be a problem. I also have the state dealer complaint form filled out and on my desk but I doubt they will do anything since it was an out of state purchase? Thanks everyone.

Steve
Old 10-18-2017, 06:13 PM
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Any news??? I'm sure many here are interested
Old 10-18-2017, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by stefuel
Any news??? I'm sure many here are interested
Not yet, getting the motor out took longer than I was originally told. Should be out now and I plan on dropping by the shop tomorrow to check on progress. Will report back, thanks for asking!

Steve
Old 10-19-2017, 02:09 PM
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Ok, well pretty good news. Motor is out and nothing external to the crank, caps or rods so although not apart yet builder says 99% sure just bearings. Turns over fine still. The heads are fine but we are doing new guides and a valve job, the old while we are there...... The rest of the big list is:

Mahle pistons
Total seal rings
Clevite bearings
Mill the head .020
Katech 116 cam
New oil pump
Bla bla bla.......$

Have no idea what cam is in it now as it's inscribed with all kinds of hand written jiberish: 3728r/ 373r BHR113+2 D6547-14

Has a Katech dual plate clutch so will see condition. New throw out bearing to be done.

So just what I wanted for my new car, a new motor....not When I got it the motor dynoed at 537 RWH and with the heads shaved Patrick says he gets around 545 RWH so I'm fine with that. I've got AR long tube headers, polished throttle body and a Halltech Killer Bee already to go with the higher compression. Not trying to make a monster(already have 2 race cars) just will do some light track days, hamburger cruises and want this thing to go a lot of miles before this again

Steve
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Old 10-19-2017, 11:11 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by C2Racer
Ok, well pretty good news. Motor is out and nothing external to the crank, caps or rods so although not apart yet builder says 99% sure just bearings. Turns over fine still. The heads are fine but we are doing new guides and a valve job, the old while we are there...... The rest of the big list is:

Mahle pistons
Total seal rings
Clevite bearings
Mill the head .020
Katech 116 cam
New oil pump
Bla bla bla.......$

Have no idea what cam is in it now as it's inscribed with all kinds of hand written jiberish: 3728r/ 373r BHR113+2 D6547-14

Has a Katech dual plate clutch so will see condition. New throw out bearing to be done.

So just what I wanted for my new car, a new motor....not When I got it the motor dynoed at 537 RWH and with the heads shaved Patrick says he gets around 545 RWH so I'm fine with that. I've got AR long tube headers, polished throttle body and a Halltech Killer Bee already to go with the higher compression. Not trying to make a monster(already have 2 race cars) just will do some light track days, hamburger cruises and want this thing to go a lot of miles before this again

Steve
Sounds like it could be much worse then! At least it didn't drop a valve. I'm curious why you're getting pistons. What are your long term plans? I'm not sure if sleeves or the pistons are the weak link. Seems like it's worth doing both or neither from what I've seen.
Old 10-20-2017, 08:04 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by rio95
Sounds like it could be much worse then! At least it didn't drop a valve. I'm curious why you're getting pistons. What are your long term plans? I'm not sure if sleeves or the pistons are the weak link. Seems like it's worth doing both or neither from what I've seen.
Pistons are the only part of the balanced assembly that are not forged and a lot of times they get damaged removing the wrist pins. Just insurance. Long term plan is the same for when I bought the car. My best friend and I vintage race Corvette's and own Porsche's. He bought a new GT3 RS and wants to do some track days and asked me to come along. So I bought this to go with him. Lets see what I can do with my Z against a really expensive Porsche. My latest challenge to myself, will see.

Steve
Old 10-20-2017, 01:08 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by C2Racer
Pistons are the only part of the balanced assembly that are not forged and a lot of times they get damaged removing the wrist pins. Just insurance. Long term plan is the same for when I bought the car. My best friend and I vintage race Corvette's and own Porsche's. He bought a new GT3 RS and wants to do some track days and asked me to come along. So I bought this to go with him. Lets see what I can do with my Z against a really expensive Porsche. My latest challenge to myself, will see.

Steve

Sounds like you guys know how to have fun!
Old 10-20-2017, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by rio95
Sounds like you guys know how to have fun!
We do and I fell very blessed to be racing with my college roommate, and my 35 year best friend. The older I get the more appreciative I am. Thanks

Got the estimate for the engine build and I will definitely be contacting the dealer once the job is complete and we know the exact failure.

Steve
Old 11-07-2017, 03:51 PM
  #32  
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An update to my motor rebuild thread now..... It seems I caught the problem very early so no major damage in the engine. #1 main bearing looks like the culprit for low oil pressure and another main and a rod bearing looked pretty toasty at the engine shop today. These bearing issues were not immediate and the builder and I agree it looks like over heating at some point along with poor oil change/type characteristics. When I got the car the radiator fan module plug was burned and the fans were not running which couldn't have helped either with the car in a warm weather city. So it looks like stupid owner syndrome kind of stuff. The good news is the block, rods and crank are fine.

This is not going as fast as I would like but I should be back in the car in about 3-4 weeks it seems to me. So Merry Christmas to me for something I didn't want......kind of like ugly socks but better, as once it's all buttoned up I do not have to see any of it again

Steve
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Old 11-07-2017, 05:31 PM
  #33  
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Should be a pretty easy fix. Are you going to replace the bare minimum or build it up a bit? What's your parts list look like? What bearings you going with?
Old 11-07-2017, 05:56 PM
  #34  
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Sure, an easy $11K +. Not what I call fun. I went thru some of the parts above. Clevite bearings with a shimmed stock oil pump.

Steve
Old 11-07-2017, 06:20 PM
  #35  
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Glad you found the problem, somewhat surprised at the bill for diagnosing and just doing replacement/repair of the modest damage. For $10K you should be able to get a nicely built (non-LS7) engine installed. If you did a build then easy to get there.
Old 11-07-2017, 06:25 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by AzDave47
Glad you found the problem, somewhat surprised at the bill for diagnosing and just doing replacement/repair of the modest damage. For $10K you should be able to get a nicely built (non-LS7) engine installed. If you did a build then easy to get there.
We are doing a lot more than just fixing the damage. Basically a new motor, heads gone completely thru new seats and guides, new oil system including lines and cooler and all the "while your in there things" . I thought about an LS3 but that's not what I bought the car for and decided against it.

Steve
Old 11-07-2017, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by C2Racer
Sure, an easy $11K +. Not what I call fun. I went thru some of the parts above. Clevite bearings with a shimmed stock oil pump.

Steve
Oh yes duh I forgot you posted a list of your plans. Sorry bout that.

$11k+ wow that's nuts! Must be a bunch of labor in that amount.

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Old 11-07-2017, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by rio95
Oh yes duh I forgot you posted a list of your plans. Sorry bout that.

$11k+ wow that's nuts! Must be a bunch of labor in that amount.
Well $2,500 is to R&R the motor. When you go down the list it makes sense. Not good but sense. And I never felt comfortable with the motor and passed on a trip in it with the wife. I was right and avoided a big disaster if my wife had been involved, if you know what I mean.
Old 11-07-2017, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by C2Racer
We are doing a lot more than just fixing the damage. Basically a new motor, heads gone completely thru new seats and guides, new oil system including lines and cooler and all the "while your in there things" . I thought about an LS3 but that's not what I bought the car for and decided against it.

Steve
For the price of a new OE oil cooler and lines, you might as well upgrade that OE radiator with a Dewitt's w/integrated oil cooler for about the same money. Now you get a better constructed radiator (larger core, aluminum end tanks), better cooling, and you get the benefit of getting rid of the OE oil cooler that is overkill for the street. The integrated oil cooler in the Dewitt's will get oil temps up much quicker, and keep them where they need to be. I remedied the "cold oil" issue on my '09 a couple years back in a similar fashion, but used OE ZR1 parts.

You're a race car guy...you know the benefits of a nice radiator and proper oil temps.
Old 11-07-2017, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MTPZ06
For the price of a new OE oil cooler and lines, you might as well upgrade that OE radiator with a Dewitt's w/integrated oil cooler for about the same money. Now you get a better constructed radiator (larger core, aluminum end tanks), better cooling, and you get the benefit of getting rid of the OE oil cooler that is overkill for the street. The integrated oil cooler in the Dewitt's will get oil temps up much quicker, and keep them where they need to be. I remedied the "cold oil" issue on my '09 a couple years back in a similar fashion, but used OE ZR1 parts.

You're a race car guy...you know the benefits of a nice radiator and proper oil temps.
Just an FYI, after my HCI work including the Dewitts radiator, on a short road course and 100* temps, I had 245* water and 290* oil temps, not the results I was looking for on track. I installed an LG WC vented hood ($3.7K with painting), but had a mis-fire on my first road course day with that and had to shift <5K rpm. (Mis-fire was loosened MSD intake bolts). I'll find out if the cooling is better in a couple of weeks.


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