A lot of things going on with my Z! I don’t understand.
#21
All we are saying is when things arent electrically making sense, ie throwing various codes, always ck simple things first: Is the battery voltage correct? Is there enough voltage available for sensors when car is started, running. Itvdoesnt matter if battery is new, test it with a load tester if nec. Good luck. Oh, ck terminals in rear.
Last edited by ratomicZ06; 01-16-2018 at 09:44 AM.
#22
Pro
Thread Starter
Youve got all these little cpu's all over the car.... bcm, etc. When they dont get off to a good start (no pun intended, voltage) it upsets things.
All we are saying is when things arent electrically making sense, ie throwing various codes, always ck simple things first: Is the battery voltage correct? Is there enough voltage available for sensors when car is started, running. Itvdoesnt matter if battery is new, test it with a load tester if nec. Good luck. Oh, ck terminals in rear.
All we are saying is when things arent electrically making sense, ie throwing various codes, always ck simple things first: Is the battery voltage correct? Is there enough voltage available for sensors when car is started, running. Itvdoesnt matter if battery is new, test it with a load tester if nec. Good luck. Oh, ck terminals in rear.
Will do. I actually just read a thread on another forum. Says if the battery is dropping voltage that the fuel injectors will flow less because they get their source straight from the battery. This in turn would cause a lean condition due to them not flowing enough fuel for the air. So I’m definitely going to check this out. Taking it to Autozone in a few(where I got it from). It’s a Duralast Gold
#24
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Thread Starter
#25
Pro
Member Since: Jul 2016
Location: Treasure Island, Lake McQueeney, Tx
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I had an issue with my new to me, ZR1, I had installed a battery tender pigtail in the engine compartment, and it was causing intermittent low voltage, and I was getting a DTC 1153, as a result. I found this out, after changing out what I thought was a bad 02 sensor.
Just some more food for thought. Good luck!
Just some more food for thought. Good luck!
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Landru (01-19-2018)
#29
Pro
Thread Starter
Tightened it up and started the car. It started at 10.7V and within 5 mins of idling it dropped to 9.7V. Could this be due to the battery being weak from the alternator not charging it properly or would it immediately start charging as soon as being started? Should I still go get it tested and recharged if deemed useable by autozone and see if it’ll hold the charge? Or is it pretty much the alternator at this point? I’m assuming it would just need a fresh battery/battery charge before changing out the alternator
#31
Safety Car
Tightened it up and started the car. It started at 10.7V and within 5 mins of idling it dropped to 9.7V. Could this be due to the battery being weak from the alternator not charging it properly or would it immediately start charging as soon as being started? Should I still go get it tested and recharged if deemed useable by autozone and see if it’ll hold the charge? Or is it pretty much the alternator at this point? I’m assuming it would just need a fresh battery/battery charge before changing out the alternator
#32
Pro
Thread Starter
Autozone said my battery was toast so they just replaced it. I put it in and started the car. Still getting the P0449 emissions Evap solenoid circuit code.
The DIC says “Battery Voltage 11.5V” isn’t going up or down. Holding there. Could’ve swore it was usually 13.4-14.3V most times I drove it. Maybe not.
The DIC says “Battery Voltage 11.5V” isn’t going up or down. Holding there. Could’ve swore it was usually 13.4-14.3V most times I drove it. Maybe not.
#36
Team Owner
Loose bolt might have cause some arcing in the alternator. Swap that out while you're at it, and still have a healthy new battery. Had a feeling this was all voltage related...
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leadfart (01-16-2018)
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leadfart (01-16-2018)