C6 ZR1 input request
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
C6 ZR1 input request
Hey Gang. I am a veteran of several Corvettes including a C6 Zo7 and a C7 Z06. I have been Vetteless for a few months and I am considering a C6 ZR1. I loved my C6 Z06's and never seriously considered a ZR1, but after the C7 Z06, I sort of got hooked on the power of the blower.
My questions are, what have been your experiences with the C6 ZR1. Any issues or common problems? Anything I should be sure to check before signing my name? All input is welcome, this deal is going to down inthe next few days and I have never even sat in one! I have already decided that Jetstream Blue is the fastest color.
My questions are, what have been your experiences with the C6 ZR1. Any issues or common problems? Anything I should be sure to check before signing my name? All input is welcome, this deal is going to down inthe next few days and I have never even sat in one! I have already decided that Jetstream Blue is the fastest color.
#2
Team Owner
Do it and don't look back.
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tonysz06 (04-15-2018)
#3
Safety Car
I have a 2011 with 20k miles and about 13 HPDE week ends....no issues.
Are you familiar with the CCB? and what you should look out for? if not, and if the car was tracked, have the rotor weighed to make sure they are above minimum weight. That's IF the car was tracked, more than a couple of times...if it's only street driven then the brakes are good for ever. Not enough heat generated on the street to wear out the rotors, and the pads, I'd be surprised if they wore too....
Are you familiar with the CCB? and what you should look out for? if not, and if the car was tracked, have the rotor weighed to make sure they are above minimum weight. That's IF the car was tracked, more than a couple of times...if it's only street driven then the brakes are good for ever. Not enough heat generated on the street to wear out the rotors, and the pads, I'd be surprised if they wore too....
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IMXCITD (04-14-2018)
#5
Instructor
The 60-5 MPH 50 times in a 10 minute period?
Or
The "old" tried and true method, 6-8 ever increasing MPH to 5 MPH method?
Do you use OEM pads or an after market pad?
Thanks!
#6
Le Mans Master
In general they are pretty rock solid cars. Just check yours out as best you can. Take a test drive to make certain there are no vibration issues with the front wheels and tires. JSB is an awesome color. I owned a 2009 myself a while back.
#7
Badass. My dream vette, along with a SWC.
#8
Safety Car
I use OEM pads because no aftermarket have really tested their pads on the CCB rotors...they may say "their compound" if fine but unless they back it up, I won't try it on 1200$ rotor... OEM has worked well for me on and off track.
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JimsCorvettes (04-12-2018)
#9
I believed I followed the manual on that one, 60-0 50 of them under 10 sounds about right.
I use OEM pads because no aftermarket have really tested their pads on the CCB rotors...they may say "their compound" if fine but unless they back it up, I won't try it on 1200$ rotor... OEM has worked well for me on and off track.
I use OEM pads because no aftermarket have really tested their pads on the CCB rotors...they may say "their compound" if fine but unless they back it up, I won't try it on 1200$ rotor... OEM has worked well for me on and off track.
Also, if I only track the car hard 1 maybe 2 times a year, how soon should I worry about the rotors needing to be weighed and wearing down? Pads too?
Sorry, I know that was a lot. LOL
To the OP. Other than the usual checklist for any car, the vibration issue above 70 mph and the braking system being checked, these cars are simply fantastic.
#10
The C6 ZR1 is still my favorite corvette ever.
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
I have a 2011 with 20k miles and about 13 HPDE week ends....no issues.
Are you familiar with the CCB? and what you should look out for? if not, and if the car was tracked, have the rotor weighed to make sure they are above minimum weight. That's IF the car was tracked, more than a couple of times...if it's only street driven then the brakes are good for ever. Not enough heat generated on the street to wear out the rotors, and the pads, I'd be surprised if they wore too....
Are you familiar with the CCB? and what you should look out for? if not, and if the car was tracked, have the rotor weighed to make sure they are above minimum weight. That's IF the car was tracked, more than a couple of times...if it's only street driven then the brakes are good for ever. Not enough heat generated on the street to wear out the rotors, and the pads, I'd be surprised if they wore too....
I race cars and am a pro driver coach in the Ferrari Challenge so I have lots of time with these brakes. (same front rotors on the 430 front and 458 rears as the Vette as I recall, but far different prices!). Carbon is awesome for race cars because they never fully cool off in use, but even the modern stuff still needs to "wake" up with some heat before being even as good as a steel rotor.
Having said that, they are sexy as hell and I will be happy to live with them in this new/used car!
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
I have a 2011 with 20k miles and about 13 HPDE week ends....no issues.
Are you familiar with the CCB? and what you should look out for? if not, and if the car was tracked, have the rotor weighed to make sure they are above minimum weight. That's IF the car was tracked, more than a couple of times...if it's only street driven then the brakes are good for ever. Not enough heat generated on the street to wear out the rotors, and the pads, I'd be surprised if they wore too....
Are you familiar with the CCB? and what you should look out for? if not, and if the car was tracked, have the rotor weighed to make sure they are above minimum weight. That's IF the car was tracked, more than a couple of times...if it's only street driven then the brakes are good for ever. Not enough heat generated on the street to wear out the rotors, and the pads, I'd be surprised if they wore too....
#14
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2006
Location: Everywhere and Nowhere at all
Posts: 15,357
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So.. you got rid of the Z07 for the newer C7Z... Might I inquire as to why you sold that car? As others have said, the C6ZR1 is definitely one of my favorite Corvettes. It is probably the only car that I would consider selling my 08Z to have. JSB is gorgeous no doubt!! I'd love to have one someday.... I'll be following your post to see the pics of the one you decide on. congrats!
#15
Safety Car
Yes, I had a 2011 Z07 so I understand, and I followed the bed in procedure to the letter on that one.Interestingly when I traded it for my C7 Z06 I passed on the carbon brakes because they lacked any cold bite at all. I scared myself a few times with panic stops after long runs where nobody was home for too long a time on the pedal.
I race cars and am a pro driver coach in the Ferrari Challenge so I have lots of time with these brakes. (same front rotors on the 430 front and 458 rears as the Vette as I recall, but far different prices!). Carbon is awesome for race cars because they never fully cool off in use, but even the modern stuff still needs to "wake" up with some heat before being even as good as a steel rotor.
Having said that, they are sexy as hell and I will be happy to live with them in this new/used car!
I race cars and am a pro driver coach in the Ferrari Challenge so I have lots of time with these brakes. (same front rotors on the 430 front and 458 rears as the Vette as I recall, but far different prices!). Carbon is awesome for race cars because they never fully cool off in use, but even the modern stuff still needs to "wake" up with some heat before being even as good as a steel rotor.
Having said that, they are sexy as hell and I will be happy to live with them in this new/used car!
#16
Safety Car
Hey Mirage, a couple of questions for you. My 2012 Centennial ZR1 just passed 28K miles. The car has been fantastic. But I am not sure if the bedding was ever done. I am heading out to TMS in May for our annual track day, if I bed the breaks now is there any ill effects if they were initially done?
Also, if I only track the car hard 1 maybe 2 times a year, how soon should I worry about the rotors needing to be weighed and wearing down? Pads too?
Sorry, I know that was a lot. LOL
To the OP. Other than the usual checklist for any car, the vibration issue above 70 mph and the braking system being checked, these cars are simply fantastic.
Also, if I only track the car hard 1 maybe 2 times a year, how soon should I worry about the rotors needing to be weighed and wearing down? Pads too?
Sorry, I know that was a lot. LOL
To the OP. Other than the usual checklist for any car, the vibration issue above 70 mph and the braking system being checked, these cars are simply fantastic.
http://www.101corvetteprojects.com/c...ad-burnishing/
If you've never done it, the mileage doesn't matter, chances are your pad are still fairly thick and you never got them hot enough to begin with to allow what is described in that link to happen, so go do it.
Tracking 1 or 2 times a year, that has huge variable. If you are totally green, then you'll be fine for a while. If you've been there done that and are up there on speeds, then I think you'll be fine, but if that track is known to kill brakes then who knows. Your driving style will influence that greatly.
For me, I started green as you can be, but by week end 8-9 and up I was going almost 7-10 sec quicker than when I first started. The track I go do is known to be easy on pads, I have that working for me. Last I check my pads had about 2/3 left, which for track use, and because of CCB's, you want to change them early OR you will end up with more heat in the discs (pad thickness help dissipate heat) and start wearing out the discs sooner. I'll probably be swapping pads for track and keep using those "used" one for the street.
#17
Safety Car
Also, that 13 track weekends is an impressive workout! In view of all the crying about the automatic C7 Z07 cars overheating on track! I never overheated my C7 Z06 on track, but its nice to know that the C6 ZR1 can run all day! No LS7 blowing up and no C7 Z06 overheating, sounds like the best of all worlds!
#18
here is a good link to explain why we have to do it:
http://www.101corvetteprojects.com/c...ad-burnishing/
If you've never done it, the mileage doesn't matter, chances are your pad are still fairly thick and you never got them hot enough to begin with to allow what is described in that link to happen, so go do it.
Tracking 1 or 2 times a year, that has huge variable. If you are totally green, then you'll be fine for a while. If you've been there done that and are up there on speeds, then I think you'll be fine, but if that track is known to kill brakes then who knows. Your driving style will influence that greatly.
For me, I started green as you can be, but by week end 8-9 and up I was going almost 7-10 sec quicker than when I first started. The track I go do is known to be easy on pads, I have that working for me. Last I check my pads had about 2/3 left, which for track use, and because of CCB's, you want to change them early OR you will end up with more heat in the discs (pad thickness help dissipate heat) and start wearing out the discs sooner. I'll probably be swapping pads for track and keep using those "used" one for the street.
http://www.101corvetteprojects.com/c...ad-burnishing/
If you've never done it, the mileage doesn't matter, chances are your pad are still fairly thick and you never got them hot enough to begin with to allow what is described in that link to happen, so go do it.
Tracking 1 or 2 times a year, that has huge variable. If you are totally green, then you'll be fine for a while. If you've been there done that and are up there on speeds, then I think you'll be fine, but if that track is known to kill brakes then who knows. Your driving style will influence that greatly.
For me, I started green as you can be, but by week end 8-9 and up I was going almost 7-10 sec quicker than when I first started. The track I go do is known to be easy on pads, I have that working for me. Last I check my pads had about 2/3 left, which for track use, and because of CCB's, you want to change them early OR you will end up with more heat in the discs (pad thickness help dissipate heat) and start wearing out the discs sooner. I'll probably be swapping pads for track and keep using those "used" one for the street.
#19
Pro
You have had a few Vettes, so you probably know all of this, but just in case:
Check the clutch fluid, if it's black, Ranger method.
Check the front splitter and side skirts for repairs and/or if they are original.
Check the dash, especially passenger side near windshield, you are looking for the leather pulling away from the dash.
Check the date code on the tires, low mile ZR1's tend to have old tires on them.
Feel under the windshield wiper cowl near the corners of the blower. You are looking for holes drilled in the cowl. If the blower has been off (non-GM dealer work) it will most likely have holes drilled in the cowl for easier access to the two rear corner blower bolts.
Check the seal around the main wire harness (cuts, rips, tears) this is the most likely place for nitrous lines, wide band wires etc.
Check the shocks for any signs of leakage.
Check the clutch fluid, if it's black, Ranger method.
Check the front splitter and side skirts for repairs and/or if they are original.
Check the dash, especially passenger side near windshield, you are looking for the leather pulling away from the dash.
Check the date code on the tires, low mile ZR1's tend to have old tires on them.
Feel under the windshield wiper cowl near the corners of the blower. You are looking for holes drilled in the cowl. If the blower has been off (non-GM dealer work) it will most likely have holes drilled in the cowl for easier access to the two rear corner blower bolts.
Check the seal around the main wire harness (cuts, rips, tears) this is the most likely place for nitrous lines, wide band wires etc.
Check the shocks for any signs of leakage.
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J.J.D.O. (04-11-2018)