Dropping 10* only those that live in serious heat can relate.
05-31-2018, 09:20 PM
#1
Dropping 10* only those that live in serious heat can relate.
Okay no offense but if you don’t live in the south then you can’t relate to the heat and humidity we experience. This is for those that do live in hell.
Problem, Z runs to close to 220* it’s hovering around 216*
and fighting to stay there. Texas heat is no joke.
Question. Anyone in the south that runs the Dewitt’s radiator or similar that can keep this engine around 205* in these conditions?
My outside temperature in the summer around 3pm is 100* or more easily in TX. The humidity is absurd. Any input
appreciated. I use her on a daily too
Problem, Z runs to close to 220* it’s hovering around 216*
and fighting to stay there. Texas heat is no joke.
Question. Anyone in the south that runs the Dewitt’s radiator or similar that can keep this engine around 205* in these conditions?
My outside temperature in the summer around 3pm is 100* or more easily in TX. The humidity is absurd. Any input
appreciated. I use her on a daily too
05-31-2018, 09:36 PM
#4
Last edited by JesC6Z; 05-31-2018 at 09:37 PM.
05-31-2018, 09:49 PM
#5
Drifting
They make a kit for both full size Dewitt’s and the shortened version for blower cars. I have one on my supercharged Z and dropped at least 10 deg in traffic.
No need to change the radiator.
No need to change the radiator.
Last edited by Patriot Six; 05-31-2018 at 10:11 PM.
05-31-2018, 10:45 PM
#7
Team Owner
If its me, and my car had an OE rad with plastic end tanks...I see no downside in upgrading to a Dewitts, Ron Davis, etc.
05-31-2018, 10:51 PM
#8
Drifting
Okay no offense but if you don’t live in the south then you can’t relate to the heat and humidity we experience. This is for those that do live in hell.
Problem, Z runs to close to 220* it’s hovering around 216*
and fighting to stay there. Texas heat is no joke.
Question. Anyone in the south that runs the Dewitt’s radiator or similar that can keep this engine around 205* in these conditions?
My outside temperature in the summer around 3pm is 100* or more easily in TX. The humidity is absurd. Any input
appreciated. I use her on a daily too
Problem, Z runs to close to 220* it’s hovering around 216*
and fighting to stay there. Texas heat is no joke.
Question. Anyone in the south that runs the Dewitt’s radiator or similar that can keep this engine around 205* in these conditions?
My outside temperature in the summer around 3pm is 100* or more easily in TX. The humidity is absurd. Any input
appreciated. I use her on a daily too
05-31-2018, 10:51 PM
#9
If you run pure water, you NEED to also add a lubricant/anti-corrosive, and WW does those functions too. Do NOT run pure water without also adding water pump additive. Anti-freeze also serves that function, which I think is more important than raising the boiling point.
Compared to pure water (with the anti-corrosive and lube mentioned earlier) a 50/50 mixture needs about 14% more flow to obtain the same heat transfer rate - per www.engineeringtoolbox.com
Last edited by nuke61; 05-31-2018 at 11:04 PM.
05-31-2018, 11:14 PM
#10
Team Owner
The 15 psig radiator cap pressure already raises it to ~250°F, while using 50/50 takes it to ~265°F- I'd rather have the better heat transfer of pure water and a surfactant to break the surface tension. This setup, with a DeWitts radiator, worked great on my supercharged C5Z, and now on my C6Z.
If you run pure water, you NEED to also add a lubricant/anti-corrosive, and WW does those functions too. Do NOT run pure water without also adding water pump additive. Anti-freeze also serves that function, which I think is more important than raising the boiling point.
Compared to pure water (with the anti-corrosive and lube mentioned earlier) a 50/50 mixture needs about 14% more flow to obtain the same heat transfer rate - per www.engineeringtoolbox.com
If you run pure water, you NEED to also add a lubricant/anti-corrosive, and WW does those functions too. Do NOT run pure water without also adding water pump additive. Anti-freeze also serves that function, which I think is more important than raising the boiling point.
Compared to pure water (with the anti-corrosive and lube mentioned earlier) a 50/50 mixture needs about 14% more flow to obtain the same heat transfer rate - per www.engineeringtoolbox.com
Agreed on the lubricant properties of water wetter...which is why I say 2 bottles if you're limiting or eliminating antifreeze altogether.
Last edited by MTPZ06; 05-31-2018 at 11:16 PM.
05-31-2018, 11:20 PM
#11
What were your temps like before your head change? What mixture of coolant did you use? I just did the 50/50 in mine when I did my head swap and have yet to see anything over 207 in stop and go and 196 at highway speeds. I keep the DIC on the coolant temp all the time because I tend to watch it like a hawk. Temp yesterday when i drove mine was 99 on the way home.
won’t I risk corrosion going 100% distilled? Maybe I will try a 70/30 mix with wetter. Once I get some air moving she drops from 215 to 210. I’d like to stay constant 205 no matter how hot or stand still. Might be asking for too much maybe
06-01-2018, 12:13 AM
#12
The 15 psig radiator cap pressure already raises it to ~250°F, while using 50/50 takes it to ~265°F- I'd rather have the better heat transfer of pure water and a surfactant to break the surface tension. This setup, with a DeWitts radiator, worked great on my supercharged C5Z, and now on my C6Z.
If you run pure water, you NEED to also add a lubricant/anti-corrosive, and WW does those functions too. Do NOT run pure water without also adding water pump additive. Anti-freeze also serves that function, which I think is more important than raising the boiling point.
Compared to pure water (with the anti-corrosive and lube mentioned earlier) a 50/50 mixture needs about 14% more flow to obtain the same heat transfer rate - per www.engineeringtoolbox.com
If you run pure water, you NEED to also add a lubricant/anti-corrosive, and WW does those functions too. Do NOT run pure water without also adding water pump additive. Anti-freeze also serves that function, which I think is more important than raising the boiling point.
Compared to pure water (with the anti-corrosive and lube mentioned earlier) a 50/50 mixture needs about 14% more flow to obtain the same heat transfer rate - per www.engineeringtoolbox.com
06-01-2018, 01:17 AM
#13
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Only 101* today, but forecast is heating up to 110 by Monday. For the Summer, I pull my Vararam, block off the opening in the shroud, and put in my OEM intake. I run 30-70 mix year around. A 160* stat and reset fan to start on at 192 and graduate to 90% at 102. As long as I keep it under 220, I'm happy.
06-01-2018, 06:52 AM
#14
If want to solve the problem on a more permanent level go ahead and drop the cash on a prospeed dual. I have a blower and took the advice of guys on here, ordered my prospeed yesterday. Those guys are solid give them a call, shoot me a PM if you want the number or just google it out. This Deep South heat is no joke! 🇺🇸
06-01-2018, 08:03 AM
#15
If want to solve the problem on a more permanent level go ahead and drop the cash on a prospeed dual. I have a blower and took the advice of guys on here, ordered my prospeed yesterday. Those guys are solid give them a call, shoot me a PM if you want the number or just google it out. This Deep South heat is no joke! 🇺🇸
06-01-2018, 08:11 AM
#16
few things:
- check the shrouds to make sure they are in place, or not damaged in some way.
- install the dewitts drop in replacement radiator.
- second upgrade will be the dewitts upgraded brushless fan, pulls a lot of air at idle which is most of the problem, and drops the voltage required by your car.
- third is get the separate additional oil cooler with a fan
I'm running that in Houston with a A&A YSI Supercharger with no temp issues so far.
- check the shrouds to make sure they are in place, or not damaged in some way.
- install the dewitts drop in replacement radiator.
- second upgrade will be the dewitts upgraded brushless fan, pulls a lot of air at idle which is most of the problem, and drops the voltage required by your car.
- third is get the separate additional oil cooler with a fan
I'm running that in Houston with a A&A YSI Supercharger with no temp issues so far.
06-01-2018, 08:34 AM
#18
If want to solve the problem on a more permanent level go ahead and drop the cash on a prospeed dual. I have a blower and took the advice of guys on here, ordered my prospeed yesterday. Those guys are solid give them a call, shoot me a PM if you want the number or just google it out. This Deep South heat is no joke! 🇺🇸
few things:
- check the shrouds to make sure they are in place, or not damaged in some way.
- install the dewitts drop in replacement radiator.
- second upgrade will be the dewitts upgraded brushless fan, pulls a lot of air at idle which is most of the problem, and drops the voltage required by your car.
- third is get the separate additional oil cooler with a fan
I'm running that in Houston with a A&A YSI Supercharger with no temp issues so far.
- check the shrouds to make sure they are in place, or not damaged in some way.
- install the dewitts drop in replacement radiator.
- second upgrade will be the dewitts upgraded brushless fan, pulls a lot of air at idle which is most of the problem, and drops the voltage required by your car.
- third is get the separate additional oil cooler with a fan
I'm running that in Houston with a A&A YSI Supercharger with no temp issues so far.
06-01-2018, 08:40 AM
#19
Safety Car
Okay no offense but if you don’t live in the south then you can’t relate to the heat and humidity we experience. This is for those that do live in hell.
Problem, Z runs to close to 220* it’s hovering around 216*
and fighting to stay there. Texas heat is no joke.
Question. Anyone in the south that runs the Dewitt’s radiator or similar that can keep this engine around 205* in these conditions?
My outside temperature in the summer around 3pm is 100* or more easily in TX. The humidity is absurd. Any input
appreciated. I use her on a daily too
Problem, Z runs to close to 220* it’s hovering around 216*
and fighting to stay there. Texas heat is no joke.
Question. Anyone in the south that runs the Dewitt’s radiator or similar that can keep this engine around 205* in these conditions?
My outside temperature in the summer around 3pm is 100* or more easily in TX. The humidity is absurd. Any input
appreciated. I use her on a daily too
Are you running stock engine, stock tune? Any mods at all?
The fan activation temps are stupid high on these cars. Having a tuner knock the fan "turn on" and "turn off" temps down 10°F to 15°F below the stock values also helps keep the thing cooler.
06-01-2018, 08:45 AM
#20
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2006
Location: Everywhere and Nowhere at all
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Brother, I live in Dallas... Heat index was 106 on Wednesday... My temps ( even in that heat) are nowhere near where yours are. OEM Radiator.... 160 deg tstat, 50/50 mix. Upper 180's-190 cruising... 205-210 in traffic.. depending...