Whats up Guy,so to make it quick...I was out racing other night. Did a quick burnout to warm tires up. As I pulled up to a light I Noticed clutch pedal felt weird.

When I depressed the clutch and tried to put car in gear I couldn’t . I tried to put it in a few different gears, you can feel car wants to move. I still had a clutch pedal.

So yesterday I pulled the drivetrain (car on jack stands on my back) lol . Look at the clutch (twin mantic) nothing looked unusuaI. I put a new slave cylinder , new speed bleeder. Had the car Buttoned back up in 9hrs. Bled the clutch. Feels like a good pedal and had solid fluid when I was bleeding .

Started the car last nt , depressed clutch and same thing car won’t go into gear . With the clutch engaged and trying to put it in gear you can feel car wants to move .
Yes I was very upset lol. All that labor.

You think ink maybe it’s the master cylinder? Or the clutch?
Thanks Jason

Thanks for the reply man. The master I replaced new when I did the mantic clutch about 2 years ago, along with the slave cylinder. Now replacing the slave again thinking that was the issue. I could have cried when I started the car last nt and the problem was still there lol. There has been a lot of abuse on my set up the last two years. I don’t know what I could have done to the clutch. Wouldn’t I still be able to have least get it into gear if the clutch was bad?

Im going to take a little break from the car this week bc I’m so frustrated. Oh..the car is a 2008 H/C nitrous stock bottom end. 615rw on motor 780rw on 150 shot.

It sounds like your clutch is dragging which would make it hard to engage a gear and cause it to want to walk when in gear.

Ie when you push the clutch in it doesn’t fully release from the flywheel. Or the pilot bearing is grabbing the input shaft.

Broken clutch or messed up pilot bearing would be my guess since it worked before and you replaced the slave.

Thanks for feedback guys Update..After talking to a few people, I’m leaning more towards Clutch failure. Maybe Pressure plate maybe shattered or crack. I really don’t think it’s Hydraulic. Going to get the up in the air again tomorrow. Before I start pulling drivetrain again,going to use a camera and see if I can possibly see the slave pushing on forks when I press the clutch. At least rule out master.

I been kicking myself all week bc I was rt at the clutch and should’ve took the extra 20mins, and pulled headers, bellhousing and clutch. And Really inspect it. The clutch was last on what I thought was wrong. Rushing also has reverse progress sometimes.

Let you know what I find out. Thanks Jason

Tires def spun, but it was a little violent. I have transbrace, solid engine mounts ..so there’s not much forgiveness. And no like a jackass I just looked Into bellhousing and nothing looking unusual. I know dumb dumb, I should have took the extra time and removed clutch. Lesson learned. I will started tear down again later tonight. Thanks for the reply Jason

What’s up guys been crazy busy with work and also with a baby on the way in 2 weeks the wife has me doing a million things anyway... I finally got around to pulling the drivetrain back out,and this time took the bellhousing off lol.
Pulled the clutch apart, and found my problem..

Clutch discs are Done!! One spring completely pulled out and was floating inbetween plate and flywheel. Did minimum damage besides scoring some flywheel bolt heads. Also you can see in pictures, stress cracks on both discs around springs. Looks like they all were gna let go too.

Although it’s only two years old,I can’t knock this Mantic clutch. It’s has been through a lot of abuse. 100s of 1/2 mile passes , multiple low 9sec passes on nitrous,and a lot of miles on street. I thought I would get more out of her, but hey that’s race car problems.

I won’t be putting a Mantic back in the car. I already bought a Monster Lt1-s Triple. And Honestly I can’t wait to install it this weekend. Heard and read nothing but great things about the clutch. And I love the fact it’s heavier than the Mantic.
I have a big cam in my car and I always felt the lighter flywheel was a issue as far as drivability.


What I seen first time around.Looks normal.

Thanks brother. I always appreciate all the help and advice on the Forum. So the old set up I ran for two years was.. H/c sbe made 567rw on motor 646rw 150shot ( mustang dyno). Car went 10.09@139 Na / 9.43@149 on spray. With this Mantic. Cut 1.40 ft’s constantly. New set up this season from doing some winter mods . Msd,milled heads,Nw,2”
headers ..I make 615rw Na and 780ish 150shot (spinning on dyno) same mustang dyno. I haven’t been back to track with the new set up. I broke the clutch roll racing on street.
Hopefullu this fall I get back to track and go for sub 9’s

Thank you and thank you again lol. I did their LT1-S Organic Triple disc SSR. I came across a deal from a friend couldn’t pass up. That being said I just weighed both clutches on my bathroom scale to get a idea of the weight difference. (Complete clutch,discs,flywheel etc)
The Monster was 57lbs. My old beat up Twin Mantic was 18lbs. Huge weight diff!!!
I purchased this Mantic when Ecs first starting selling them, and I believe they only offered a light weight flywheel. I always wanted a heavier flywheel. Really can’t wait to see have this Triple works with my set up.

How long does it take you to drop the drivetrain? Wanna do a freelance job, lol?

The old cam was a Tsp stage 3 and it also loved spray. I can’t wait to see how this cam does at the track. I still haven’t sprayed the car since the dyno.

Haha you know what..every time I have to work under the car I say I’m never doing this again lol. Being I don’t have a lift and I put the car on jack stands, that adds to the time. Although I have a system now and I can have the car in the air in about 20mins. I get it about 18inches from bottom of sideskirt to the ground. Once car is off the ground I can have the drivetrain out from under the car in 3-1/2 hrs. That’s removing center console,exhaust also. I did it so many times it’s actually easy to me.