new member: already fear too much car for me
07-23-2018, 01:07 PM
#41
Skimmed through the replies above; some good insight in there. To briefly recap/add my $0.02:
1. Tires & alignment. Tread depth is one thing, age is another. If they're old, they won't stick. Buy the best you can afford & read reviews beforehand. Align the car to factory specs, some rear toe-in will help keep the back end in line.
2. Traction control/nannies/etc. Yes leave them on but beware they are not as intrusive as on most cars. You can still easily lose control of the car with them on. No need to turn them off for a while - plenty of fun to be had within those parameters.
3. Instruction. The basic driver's ed that most people had (often decades ago) isn't going to prepare you to exploit even 40% of this car's capabilities (aside from straight line stuff). Look into a HPDE at your nearest track and sign up. $500 spent here will make you faster--and safer--than $5000 spent elsewhere and that's a 'mod' that you can carry with you for life. It also lets you see the car where it really shines. Just my opinion here, but I paid for 100% of the car and was not content with keeping it on the street where I'm only using <50% of it's capabilities.
4. Suspension. You commented on the back end feeling unsettled over bumps, especially midcorner. This is true and is the worst on the 2006 cars. If you're going to make a mod, this is a great one: DRM Bilstein shocks. These are valved specifically to the chassis and have a softer rebound than oem - this helps the back end stay stable and planted over slight bumps/etc midcorner. It is a great performance upgrade but also makes sense from a safety perspective too. And they're very affordable.
Enjoy!
1. Tires & alignment. Tread depth is one thing, age is another. If they're old, they won't stick. Buy the best you can afford & read reviews beforehand. Align the car to factory specs, some rear toe-in will help keep the back end in line.
2. Traction control/nannies/etc. Yes leave them on but beware they are not as intrusive as on most cars. You can still easily lose control of the car with them on. No need to turn them off for a while - plenty of fun to be had within those parameters.
3. Instruction. The basic driver's ed that most people had (often decades ago) isn't going to prepare you to exploit even 40% of this car's capabilities (aside from straight line stuff). Look into a HPDE at your nearest track and sign up. $500 spent here will make you faster--and safer--than $5000 spent elsewhere and that's a 'mod' that you can carry with you for life. It also lets you see the car where it really shines. Just my opinion here, but I paid for 100% of the car and was not content with keeping it on the street where I'm only using <50% of it's capabilities.
4. Suspension. You commented on the back end feeling unsettled over bumps, especially midcorner. This is true and is the worst on the 2006 cars. If you're going to make a mod, this is a great one: DRM Bilstein shocks. These are valved specifically to the chassis and have a softer rebound than oem - this helps the back end stay stable and planted over slight bumps/etc midcorner. It is a great performance upgrade but also makes sense from a safety perspective too. And they're very affordable.
Enjoy!
Last edited by anth115; 07-23-2018 at 01:09 PM.
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Vette doc (07-24-2018)
07-23-2018, 01:44 PM
#42
Instructor
Skimmed through the replies above; some good insight in there. To briefly recap/add my $0.02:
1. Tires & alignment. Tread depth is one thing, age is another. If they're old, they won't stick. Buy the best you can afford & read reviews beforehand. Align the car to factory specs, some rear toe-in will help keep the back end in line.
2. Traction control/nannies/etc. Yes leave them on but beware they are not as intrusive as on most cars. You can still easily lose control of the car with them on. No need to turn them off for a while - plenty of fun to be had within those parameters.
3. Instruction. The basic driver's ed that most people had (often decades ago) isn't going to prepare you to exploit even 40% of this car's capabilities (aside from straight line stuff). Look into a HPDE at your nearest track and sign up. $500 spent here will make you faster--and safer--than $5000 spent elsewhere and that's a 'mod' that you can carry with you for life. It also lets you see the car where it really shines. Just my opinion here, but I paid for 100% of the car and was not content with keeping it on the street where I'm only using <50% of it's capabilities.
4. Suspension. You commented on the back end feeling unsettled over bumps, especially midcorner. This is true and is the worst on the 2006 cars. If you're going to make a mod, this is a great one: DRM Bilstein shocks. These are valved specifically to the chassis and have a softer rebound than oem - this helps the back end stay stable and planted over slight bumps/etc midcorner. It is a great performance upgrade but also makes sense from a safety perspective too. And they're very affordable.
Enjoy!
1. Tires & alignment. Tread depth is one thing, age is another. If they're old, they won't stick. Buy the best you can afford & read reviews beforehand. Align the car to factory specs, some rear toe-in will help keep the back end in line.
2. Traction control/nannies/etc. Yes leave them on but beware they are not as intrusive as on most cars. You can still easily lose control of the car with them on. No need to turn them off for a while - plenty of fun to be had within those parameters.
3. Instruction. The basic driver's ed that most people had (often decades ago) isn't going to prepare you to exploit even 40% of this car's capabilities (aside from straight line stuff). Look into a HPDE at your nearest track and sign up. $500 spent here will make you faster--and safer--than $5000 spent elsewhere and that's a 'mod' that you can carry with you for life. It also lets you see the car where it really shines. Just my opinion here, but I paid for 100% of the car and was not content with keeping it on the street where I'm only using <50% of it's capabilities.
4. Suspension. You commented on the back end feeling unsettled over bumps, especially midcorner. This is true and is the worst on the 2006 cars. If you're going to make a mod, this is a great one: DRM Bilstein shocks. These are valved specifically to the chassis and have a softer rebound than oem - this helps the back end stay stable and planted over slight bumps/etc midcorner. It is a great performance upgrade but also makes sense from a safety perspective too. And they're very affordable.
Enjoy!
07-24-2018, 08:30 PM
#43
Intermediate
I'm in the same boat! Recently retired from riding. Having ridden on the track for almost 20 years 1000cc superbikes in C class, I wanted to have a car experience that came somewhat close to the speed and thrill of a 200hp sbk. The Z06 floats that boat, but when I first got it the car seemed like a wild beast. Moves around a lot and torque down low will get the tail wagging. All I can say is learn the throttle position and power delivery and take it slow. Change your tires to MPSS or better and dump those run flats. And then explore slowly. Interestingly, this is the same advice I gave to novice riders on the track. Believe, me you will start to get used to it. I now think the car is a bit slow which mean mods are needed. 
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
07-24-2018, 10:39 PM
#44
Thx for all the input guys, some serious good pointers here. I had the first set of finishing work completed on car to make it as close to new as possible. The car came with BBK and LG G2 suspension. The shop set it 2 click softer and its. And it's night and day. the tires are brand new as well. With the new motor mounts in and softer suspension, the car is well planted and more fun to drive. Still I am using only like 30% of what the car is capable off. Again the car is perfect and better than stock. The problem is with driver mod hahaha After going through all the input on this thread, now I am in 50/50 mind set. My heart says keep going you will get there eventually. My brain says, sell it or trade for a Miata/s2000 to learn RWD better and improve faster, as by the time I learn the car it will be at least 2 more years. Gonna take it to the back roads for another spin in the coming weekend to see if I feel more confident.
Last edited by Vette doc; 07-24-2018 at 10:40 PM.
07-24-2018, 11:10 PM
#45
Take your time, know your limits, and learn how the car acts and feels. AutoX and/or a track school would help find how the car feels at limits. Limits are way high for the street!
I've had my C6Z for 5 months and still learning how it feels. My suspension is stock and certainly fine for long distance road trips, not sure how compares to your modified suspension.
I came from a S2000 (before that, 944 turbo). Similar in that both RWD sports cars. Different feel, S2000 more like a go kart, firmer ride, more responsive. Yes slower of course, a momentum car. Fun when VTEC kicks in at 6000RPM and the run up to 8000RPM. Best shifter ever. Had it for 10 years and did quite a few AutoX in it so knew it pretty well. Moving to the Z, of course the big difference is in power, very crazy power. Way more car that driver, and way more than can really use on the street but that's OK. still fun and will enjoy learning its behavior and responses.
My son had a '99 Miata for a while, also a fun car. They have soft suspensions but do handle very well. That said, since you have the 'vette, I would not go sell and go back. Maybe a progression would be to start with a S2000 then move up to the 'vette later, but since you have it already, just learn it. Unless you like buying and selling cars often. If the car you have is in great shape, keep it! Certainly before trading test drive a S2000 or Miata first...
I've had my C6Z for 5 months and still learning how it feels. My suspension is stock and certainly fine for long distance road trips, not sure how compares to your modified suspension.
I came from a S2000 (before that, 944 turbo). Similar in that both RWD sports cars. Different feel, S2000 more like a go kart, firmer ride, more responsive. Yes slower of course, a momentum car. Fun when VTEC kicks in at 6000RPM and the run up to 8000RPM. Best shifter ever. Had it for 10 years and did quite a few AutoX in it so knew it pretty well. Moving to the Z, of course the big difference is in power, very crazy power. Way more car that driver, and way more than can really use on the street but that's OK. still fun and will enjoy learning its behavior and responses.
My son had a '99 Miata for a while, also a fun car. They have soft suspensions but do handle very well. That said, since you have the 'vette, I would not go sell and go back. Maybe a progression would be to start with a S2000 then move up to the 'vette later, but since you have it already, just learn it. Unless you like buying and selling cars often. If the car you have is in great shape, keep it! Certainly before trading test drive a S2000 or Miata first...
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Vette doc (07-25-2018)
07-24-2018, 11:31 PM
#46
Thick Member
Sign up for the SCCA tracknight at pitrace on Aug 2nd. I would be more than happy to do a ride along for your sessions and help you get a feel for her. It will be the best $150 you ever spent.
Last edited by chatcher; 07-24-2018 at 11:36 PM.
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Vette doc (07-25-2018)
07-25-2018, 03:31 PM
#48
Instructor
I didn't read everyone's responses but let me go against the grain here. Sell your car and get a c5z. It's easy to say tires and more seat time, and if you do that you'll probably be fine but all it takes is a split second of too much throttle in a turn and you're in a lot of trouble. I definitely wouldn't go all the way down to an s2k but rock a stock c5z for a year and if you want more power get another c6z.
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Vette doc (07-25-2018)