Flexcw

Are br7 heads from summit a direct replacement for ls7 heads? Will I have to do anything else to a stock ls7 to make them work?

LT5 John

I have been running Brodix BR7 heads for 0ver 5 years...However, I bought them from Richard @ WCCH. My heads were stage 3 heads, Richard's porting work, and other mods done. I believe they are direct replacement? However, call Richard @ WCCH and ask him about the Brodix heads...Richard is great to deal with, he can answer any questions you have...

Unreal

Depends on what you mean by direct replacement. Plus there are 10+ skus and types of BR7 heads/castings.

I wouldn't consider any of them bolt on, as if you buy them assembled they come with heavy valves/etc, which you can bolt on and car will run, but adding significant mass to the valve train means lowering the RPM limits/etc.

Just ordered a set of BR7s properly setup for my LS7 style build, and price came out to ~$7k.

Flexcw

Brodix STS BR 7 273 LS7 Aluminum Cylinder Heads, 273cc Intake Runner, 72cc Combustion Chamber, 2.250 Intake 1.614 Exhaust Valves, .700 Lift Hydraulic Roller Springs, 100% CNC Ported, Assembled, 2 Heads

Brian Tooley Racing is proud to offer a complete line of Brodix products! Brodix has over 50 years’ experience, through every phase of the manufacturing process. Additionally, all of these steps take place under ONE roof!

The STS BR 7 273 Cylinder Heads offer a 273cc Intake port, that flows 415cfm. Additional notes on these heads below!

STS BR 7 273 • Flows Over 415 cfm • 2.250 / 1.614 Valve Sizes • 50° Valve Job (Intake) • 45° Valve Job (Exhaust) • 273 cc Intake Port • Uses Standard LS7 Components • 12° Valve Angle

would those work?
thanks

Unreal

Work for what? Would they bolt on and the car start? Yep. Would they work for your application/goals? Who the hell knows since you didn't state any.

The problem with most off the shelf aftermarket assembled castings is they are just throwing cheap springs/retainers/valves in. The stuff is MUCH MUCH MUCH heavier and cheaper than the factory stuff. So if you go with a super mild cam, and keep the RPM down, sure they can "work". Otherwise look at putting in valves/etc comparable to OEM stuff.

Flexcw

It would be for a stock motor as of now. Would I have to have it tuned to run good or direct bolt on? Nothing else is done to the car just want to fix the heads issue with a aftermarket head.

Unreal

Yes you would want to tune it, as those heads have vastly different flow numbers. Also need to look at pushrods/lifters/etc/etc since the valve train is so different.

Your best bet is just a pair of worked stock heads. Aftermarket heads don't offer any advantage when it comes to "head issue".

Flexcw

Thank you.

Mordeth

AHP usually stocks OEM heads that have already been re-worked and are ready to bolt on. Buy a pair from them, along with head gaskets and head bolts. Remove yours, transfer over the hardware and then mail them back your stripped heads and get your core charge back. This way there is no downtime.

​​​​​​Or just remove them and send them out. Figure 3-4 weeks downtime in that case depending on workload of the machine shop (AHP, WCCH etc).