AzDave47

Here is the link to prior build and mods:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...sd-intake.html

I dropped off my 09 Z06 at CPR in Tempe last Friday. I have always taken oil samples from my oil changes and sent the to Blackstone Labs for analysis. My last two tests have shown 7-8 PPM of Titanium. In the same time the lead levels went from 2 PPM to 6 and 13. I have experienced two low oil pressure lights and have found that the oil pressure at idle after 45 seconds or so would drop from 40 PSI down into the teens unless I brought up the engine speed to 1500 RPM where the oil pressure was high 30s. With that going on I worked with Joe at CPR (they have done all my prior work) and decided to go with a fully forged bottom end and to have the heads sent back to WCCH to be checked out, 12K miles on the headwork since WCCH did the work in May 2016; the car and engine have a total of 58K miles on them I do some road course events, the Silver State Challenge events and several 1/2, 1 and 1 1/2 mile events (two passes at 201.2 MPH). During the performance events the engine is run 4K to 7.3K RPM. Street driving is mostly at 3K or less.

The main components of the build are:
Short block work at WFO Racing and Machine
Callies Compstar 4340 crank
Callies Compstar 4340 H-Beam connecting rods
Diamond LS forged pistons w/anti-friction coating on skirts
Clevite MS 2199H mains and CB663H rod bearings
DuraBond CH-23 cam bearings
ARP Pro Series main studs

Katech blue oil pump
Aviad pan baffle
Chromoly pushrods 3/8" .120 wall, length TBD
Johnson 2110 slow leakdown lifters

Heads will be sent to WCCH for inspection and corrective action if needed. I run Katech TiMo intake valves, OEM exhaust valves, OEM rocker arms, PSI 1511 springs, Ti retainers and CHE bronze guides, Katech K501 cam. Dyno runs have been 590-605 rwhp. None of the work is targeted at increased power, but for reliability. The heads are already milled .030. The tune is for our 91 octane premium so I don't need more compression. I think max advance is only about 19*. E85 is not generally available here in the high country so I have not gone to a flex fuel setup. When I do performance events I mix some 100 octane unleaded, if available, in to get 93 plus for safety. If not available, I add some Torco, but not on any regular basis.

The initial target for work completion is the end of this month. Updates will be provided as the rebuild progresses.

Apocolipse

Looking forward to this as I am sure you are as well! Post lots of pics

Yay for low timing crew lol

JesC6Z

AzDave47

I got two low oil pressure lights. The first one was a blip as I started to pull away from a stop, so the oil pressure came quickly back to normal. The other, idling in my driveway, I just shut off as soon as the light came on so again no reading that I got. The last time sitting at a light for 45 seconds it stayed high 30's, then dropped to 32, 26 17, 13 and then I took the throttle to 1500 and it went right back to high 30's. I asked to get all the rods back. I am guessing that two will have coating rubbed off and the others will be OK. I have asked for pictures of the bearings also. They will use my old block, just clean and hone as necessary. I doubt there should be any significant problems with that block. I will do my best to document how this all goes with the information I get. The last dyno day was back in April just before I ran Mojave. At that time the compression was 200-205 in all cylinders. The leakdown had one at 10%, one at 8% and the rest 5% and under. The bottom end was fully stock except the cam, lifters and pushrods.

Josh B.

I'm really excited you're getting it all fixed, Dave. Great call on getting the heads refreshed at WCCH. The Diamond/Callies combo will be perfect for your purposes. Light pistons, strong rods, big old rod bolts, lighter than factory crank.

sccaGT1racer

That's pretty much what I did when mine blew up a few years ago. The callies stuff is very good quality. Make sure you opt for callies to balance the assembly. What length rods are you using? I used 6.125.

MickVette

Looks like a very solid build. Subscribing.

Undy

Katech has had problems with cracked sleeves on their stock block builds (+/- 600 rwhp) that are tracked heavily. With all the $$ you're spending why not go all the way and do a sleeved block? Good insurance, IMO.

double06

You might want to look at the Katech red pump. On these forged motors the clearances are a little looser and the extra 20% in pressure is helpful. I have had both and you will pick up 20% more pressure. I went from 47 psi at 5,000 rpm at 200 degrees to 56 psi with same parameters. If you go that way Katech sells a few other items that are needed to use the ZR1 pump on Z06.

FNBADAZ06

Excellent, Dave !!!!!

jayyyw

Subscribed for sure. I'm also planning a bottom end rebuild. Thinking Compstar crank, OEM rods/recoated/arp bolts/honed, diamond 12:1 pistons, katech red pump, and a sleeved block.

AzDave47

Fortunately mine did not blow up. The disassembly should show how necessary this was. Some of my buddies suggested I should have just replaced the oil pump first. I told them the oil pump will be replaced by the upgraded Katech Blue unit, but that it was more likely in the LS7 that the Ti caused the higher lead resulting in the oil pressure oddity rather than the oil pump causing a bearing issue that lead to the Ti levels.

6.125" on the rods.

AzDave47

While I track, road course stuff has been 4 days or less a year. The straight line stuff is probably a half hour of power on less and the Silver State events are, at most, two 36 minute runs cruising at 4700RPM. Thanks for the suggestion.

AzDave47

Parts are already purchased per CPR recommendations. Unless other problems are found during disassembly, the build will move forward as above.

AzDave47

You have a lot of other stuff for high HP. I'll be tuned on 91 and not go with NOS or E85 so don't want any more compression (already at 11.6 or .7) than required for cleaning the head and deck. I asked about recoating the Ti rods, but CPR prefers this hardware (they go this route on their 1000HP SC builds). I'll be able to sell the good TI rods (hopefully at least 6)

C6Z06Silverbullet

Curious what they say about the heads. They should still be good to go.

jayyyw

I just happened to look up the compstar rods. Looks like they are only rated to 900hp. I'll be shooting for close to 1000whp on nitrous with my next build. I've seen them make over 1000 on a boosted application. I think I read somewhere that they are underrated from the factory.

AzDave47

I'm expecting to be in the same HP range as now, 600 +- 10

AzDave47

It will probably be a week before WCCH get to look them over.

jayyyw

Sorry, didn't mean to derail the thread. You just gave me some new ideas and I was thinking out loud.

Definitely going to be much more reliable. Good luck with the build. Hopefully no surprises are found when they tear down your motor.