2012 Z06 Electrical gremlin or real issues
09-24-2018, 12:47 PM
#1
2012 Z06 Electrical gremlin or real issues
I have searched many threads and found some great info on diagnosing my issue, but still can't nail it down:
1. DIC messages- Service Engine Soon, Service Active Handling, Service ABS. Maximum Speed 80MPH.
2. DRL flashing for first 2-3 minutes after starting car
3. Delay and orange engine light when pushing ignition button
4. New OEM battery will run down after a drive or after sitting for just a few hours. 12.8 after sitting on CTEK charger, 12.5 - 12.6 after a drive of any length.
5. No active codes on OBD service tool, shows 14.4V on alternator test
I have checked, cleaned, and tightened the 4 main body grounds. Have also pulled and MAF spray cleaned the 4 hub wheel speed sensor connections. Car is 100% stock other than Eagle Eye LED taillights. The speed is limited to 80MPH, but otherwise the car runs and handles as it always did. Are these DIC warning real, or caused by electrical gremlin?
Any advice is appreciated. Feeling like it is a ground or short issue. Leaning towards making an appointment with Abel Chevy in Rio Vista for a Tech 2 scan.
1. DIC messages- Service Engine Soon, Service Active Handling, Service ABS. Maximum Speed 80MPH.
2. DRL flashing for first 2-3 minutes after starting car
3. Delay and orange engine light when pushing ignition button
4. New OEM battery will run down after a drive or after sitting for just a few hours. 12.8 after sitting on CTEK charger, 12.5 - 12.6 after a drive of any length.
5. No active codes on OBD service tool, shows 14.4V on alternator test
I have checked, cleaned, and tightened the 4 main body grounds. Have also pulled and MAF spray cleaned the 4 hub wheel speed sensor connections. Car is 100% stock other than Eagle Eye LED taillights. The speed is limited to 80MPH, but otherwise the car runs and handles as it always did. Are these DIC warning real, or caused by electrical gremlin?
Any advice is appreciated. Feeling like it is a ground or short issue. Leaning towards making an appointment with Abel Chevy in Rio Vista for a Tech 2 scan.
09-24-2018, 06:56 PM
#4
Drifting
I personally think you need to take the battery and have it tested. I dont think a CTEK will actually charge you battery but will maintain. Technically a 12.4V reading is considered dead. I would have it tested and or charged or replaced.
09-24-2018, 08:19 PM
#6
Drifting
09-24-2018, 08:30 PM
#7
Thanks for the replies.
My volt meter shows 14.6 at alternator, 14.5 at fuse box power input, and 14.4 at battery (post to post) when car idling. Turn car off, battery at 12.6.
Will have parts store load test it. 2 months old Delco with 30 month replacement warranty.
My volt meter shows 14.6 at alternator, 14.5 at fuse box power input, and 14.4 at battery (post to post) when car idling. Turn car off, battery at 12.6.
Will have parts store load test it. 2 months old Delco with 30 month replacement warranty.
09-25-2018, 07:40 AM
#10
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,734
Received 1,678 Likes
on
878 Posts
2018 C6 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '10, '17
I'm not sure it is your battery that is causing your issues, but it is worth a shot to 100% rule it out. I would have yours load tested. You could also have a helper hold your voltmeter on the battery terminal as you crank the car and report the readings. It shouldn't drop below 9.5 volts during cranking. Is there anything else at all that is not factory plugged into your car? Like a PAL unit? An OBDII bluetooth scanner?
I would also check the battery terminals and all leads at the starter solenoid. Check the alternator wiring, the throttle body tubing and intake for leaks between the MAF and the TB.
Autozone Duralast Gold T5-DLG is what I have. Nothing special about it and all of the aftermarket ones are basically the same. This one fits properly, has a handle, a vent and works great.
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...2520Text=T5dlg
I would also check the battery terminals and all leads at the starter solenoid. Check the alternator wiring, the throttle body tubing and intake for leaks between the MAF and the TB.
Autozone Duralast Gold T5-DLG is what I have. Nothing special about it and all of the aftermarket ones are basically the same. This one fits properly, has a handle, a vent and works great.
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...2520Text=T5dlg
The following users liked this post:
2k Cobra (09-29-2018)
09-25-2018, 09:31 AM
#11
Racer
I would suggest you get an ampmeter with at least a 0-10 amp range. Pull the fuse at the battery to see if there is any current draw. Leave fuse out. Next remove the battery connection at the power center under the hood. Connect the ampmeter between the battery cable and the fuse/relay panel. You should only see about 200 to 300 milliamps. If more, start pulling/replacing fuses until the high current draw goes away. Do the same to the passenger floor fuse/relay panel. If the fuses do not make it go away, pull the relays. When you find the culprit, you should be able to trace to the source. Hope this helps.
My ZR1 draws 200 milliamps constantly. That, I believe, is that it is constantly looking for the FOB signal. I’m in MI with my grandkids for a week. When I get home, my battery will be discharged to the point it will not turn over the engine. Stuff works in the car but I have to charge the battery to start it.
Ed
My ZR1 draws 200 milliamps constantly. That, I believe, is that it is constantly looking for the FOB signal. I’m in MI with my grandkids for a week. When I get home, my battery will be discharged to the point it will not turn over the engine. Stuff works in the car but I have to charge the battery to start it.
Ed
09-25-2018, 01:40 PM
#12
Racer
i just put one of these in a couple weeks ago to replace my original stock acdelco battery. The 47/H5 will require longer bolts for the battery hold down Dorman Help! #00583 - you’ll need to cut about 2 inches off these bolts and wallow out the holes on the hold down slightly but it fits and functions like a champ.
09-25-2018, 02:27 PM
#13
Had battery load tested at parts store. 12.9V and 809 amps. They won't replace under warranty with that.
Was able to pull a U021-00 (no Comm w/ EBCM) with my OBD. Off down that rabbit hole...
Was able to pull a U021-00 (no Comm w/ EBCM) with my OBD. Off down that rabbit hole...
09-25-2018, 05:32 PM
#14
Beg borrow or steal a 12 volt test light. Disconnect the large output cable from the alternator. Connect one end of the test light to the cable. Touch the other end to ground. The light should come on. Then touch the output post of the alternator. The light should not come on. If the light does come on you have at least one bad diode in the rectifier of the alternator. That allows power from the battery to leak back to ground and will kill the battery in a short amount of time.
09-28-2018, 05:43 AM
#18
09-28-2018, 06:55 AM
#19
Racer
09-28-2018, 10:55 AM
#20
Borrowing some Race Ramps this weekend so I can clean and tighten starter wires and ground in block. I have already cleaned the main 4 frame grounds.
Since U021 is my only DTC I will also clean and check EBCM connections.
I really don't think EBCM is bad, but considering ordering a used one off if Ebay just in case. Research says used ones don't need to be flashed.
I will post updates.
Since U021 is my only DTC I will also clean and check EBCM connections.
I really don't think EBCM is bad, but considering ordering a used one off if Ebay just in case. Research says used ones don't need to be flashed.
I will post updates.