[Z06] New Z06 Owner, couple questions
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
New Z06 Owner, couple questions
Hey guys, I made an intro post a couple weeks back, and I finally have the car ('08 Z06) back home in my garage. I put 4k miles on it in a week, and learned a handful of things about the car.
Now, the seller told me that the previous owner to him told him that he had the heads fixed. That's all I've had to go on until I got it home, and the car exhibits a lifter tick which I'm going to assume is not a good sign. I've read here and there about people pulling the heads and physically checking the play in the valves but I have not seen any range for that specification. I plan to pull the heads, but need a more concrete idea about how to verify their integrity. It looks to be the stock GM part #12578449.
Also, the car is throwing some BCM codes (I had a PPI done on the car, I unfortunately do not have the diagnostic tool myself).
The only symptom is my HVAC is rather screwed up. The heater, AC and blower all work, and the LCD properly displays inputs, but the directional air button does nothing, the climate temperature never matches the input, and sometimes I cannot turn down the blower. So, I'm guessing that'll be a replacement BCM. I guess any other input or direction would be appreciated since I don't like solutions that aren't guaranteed.
So this is what I'll occupy myself with this winter. Glad to be here, and thanks for the welcome.
Here's the Vette next to what's now my winter car:
Now, the seller told me that the previous owner to him told him that he had the heads fixed. That's all I've had to go on until I got it home, and the car exhibits a lifter tick which I'm going to assume is not a good sign. I've read here and there about people pulling the heads and physically checking the play in the valves but I have not seen any range for that specification. I plan to pull the heads, but need a more concrete idea about how to verify their integrity. It looks to be the stock GM part #12578449.
Also, the car is throwing some BCM codes (I had a PPI done on the car, I unfortunately do not have the diagnostic tool myself).
The only symptom is my HVAC is rather screwed up. The heater, AC and blower all work, and the LCD properly displays inputs, but the directional air button does nothing, the climate temperature never matches the input, and sometimes I cannot turn down the blower. So, I'm guessing that'll be a replacement BCM. I guess any other input or direction would be appreciated since I don't like solutions that aren't guaranteed.
So this is what I'll occupy myself with this winter. Glad to be here, and thanks for the welcome.
Here's the Vette next to what's now my winter car:
#3
Hey guys, I made an intro post a couple weeks back, and I finally have the car ('08 Z06) back home in my garage. I put 4k miles on it in a week, and learned a handful of things about the car.
Now, the seller told me that the previous owner to him told him that he had the heads fixed. That's all I've had to go on until I got it home, and the car exhibits a lifter tick which I'm going to assume is not a good sign. I've read here and there about people pulling the heads and physically checking the play in the valves but I have not seen any range for that specification. I plan to pull the heads, but need a more concrete idea about how to verify their integrity. It looks to be the stock GM part #12578449.
Also, the car is throwing some BCM codes (I had a PPI done on the car, I unfortunately do not have the diagnostic tool myself).
The only symptom is my HVAC is rather screwed up. The heater, AC and blower all work, and the LCD properly displays inputs, but the directional air button does nothing, the climate temperature never matches the input, and sometimes I cannot turn down the blower. So, I'm guessing that'll be a replacement BCM. I guess any other input or direction would be appreciated since I don't like solutions that aren't guaranteed.
So this is what I'll occupy myself with this winter. Glad to be here, and thanks for the welcome.
Here's the Vette next to what's now my winter car:
Now, the seller told me that the previous owner to him told him that he had the heads fixed. That's all I've had to go on until I got it home, and the car exhibits a lifter tick which I'm going to assume is not a good sign. I've read here and there about people pulling the heads and physically checking the play in the valves but I have not seen any range for that specification. I plan to pull the heads, but need a more concrete idea about how to verify their integrity. It looks to be the stock GM part #12578449.
Also, the car is throwing some BCM codes (I had a PPI done on the car, I unfortunately do not have the diagnostic tool myself).
The only symptom is my HVAC is rather screwed up. The heater, AC and blower all work, and the LCD properly displays inputs, but the directional air button does nothing, the climate temperature never matches the input, and sometimes I cannot turn down the blower. So, I'm guessing that'll be a replacement BCM. I guess any other input or direction would be appreciated since I don't like solutions that aren't guaranteed.
So this is what I'll occupy myself with this winter. Glad to be here, and thanks for the welcome.
Here's the Vette next to what's now my winter car:
#4
Le Mans Master
did the previous owner have receipts to prove the 'fix' ??
The following users liked this post:
Landru (11-12-2018)
#6
Team Owner
DIY Wiggle test: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-test-diy.html
If you are actually going to pull the heads, which may not be a bad idea if you think you have lifter issues...gives you a chance to pull the lifters for further inspection and you can then rotate and inspect cam lobes. With heads off, you could also do a valve guide inspection with a bore gauge; but obviously you'll be doing a full head disassembly to get that data.
DIY Head swap thread: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-headswap.html
If you are actually going to pull the heads, which may not be a bad idea if you think you have lifter issues...gives you a chance to pull the lifters for further inspection and you can then rotate and inspect cam lobes. With heads off, you could also do a valve guide inspection with a bore gauge; but obviously you'll be doing a full head disassembly to get that data.
DIY Head swap thread: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-headswap.html
#7
Melting Slicks
DIY Wiggle test: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-test-diy.html
If you are actually going to pull the heads, which may not be a bad idea if you think you have lifter issues...gives you a chance to pull the lifters for further inspection and you can then rotate and inspect cam lobes. With heads off, you could also do a valve guide inspection with a bore gauge; but obviously you'll be doing a full head disassembly to get that data.
DIY Head swap thread: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-headswap.html
If you are actually going to pull the heads, which may not be a bad idea if you think you have lifter issues...gives you a chance to pull the lifters for further inspection and you can then rotate and inspect cam lobes. With heads off, you could also do a valve guide inspection with a bore gauge; but obviously you'll be doing a full head disassembly to get that data.
DIY Head swap thread: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-headswap.html
#8
Team Owner
#9
Melting Slicks
#10
Race Director
I've read here and there about people pulling the heads and physically checking the play in the valves but I have not seen any range for that specification. I plan to pull the heads, but need a more concrete idea about how to verify their integrity. It looks to be the stock GM part #12578449.
If there's movement whatsoever guide's worn, requiring replacement.
OTOH w/o fancy machinist tools there's a preliminary check for valves/guide integrity called a "Wiggle Test".
Grab hold of valve stem & wiggle, any movement a'tall is a sign guides are probably too far worn.
As for malfunctioning HVAC?
May need a new head unit vs BCM, it's happened.
Before going any further though it could be a 'lost' confused computer.
First & cheapest way to check if this is an electronic gremlin is doing a hard reset of computers.
Disconnect battery a few minutes & reconnect, see if HVAC doesn't start working properly.
IF not next would be the head unit.
Congrats on the Z, it's beautiful & looks just like the copy I've loved for past 10 years.
Do have the heads thoroughly inspected first thing looking for loose valves due to worn guides, take appropriate action.
The rest really isn't serious, not compared to a fragged LS7 anyway.
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
Ya, I'll go for the wiggle test. All I have is the seller's word about the heads.
The ticking hasn't gotten louder or higher in frequency since I test drove it, but I'm not sure what constitutes as normal. My only engine experience is the 2.3 MZR in my speed3, I'm not used to pushrods yet, but that day will come.
And I've only read about people replacing the LCD if it doesn't correctly display inputs. Mine does, and the car is storing a couple other codes on the BCM other than the HVAC as shown in the pictures.
Additionally, I followed the attached thread regarding fixing the trunk button. Took me 15 minutes and now it works, so thanks for that.
The ticking hasn't gotten louder or higher in frequency since I test drove it, but I'm not sure what constitutes as normal. My only engine experience is the 2.3 MZR in my speed3, I'm not used to pushrods yet, but that day will come.
And I've only read about people replacing the LCD if it doesn't correctly display inputs. Mine does, and the car is storing a couple other codes on the BCM other than the HVAC as shown in the pictures.
Additionally, I followed the attached thread regarding fixing the trunk button. Took me 15 minutes and now it works, so thanks for that.
#12
OP, I’m at a similar point with my “new to me” Z. I’ve had it a month or so, I’m new to the LS platform and noticed the ticking (is it loud?...to me, yes...compared to other LS7s, don’t really know). Ive been a lurker on CF for years and read most all the guide issue threads. Doing all that reading did not put enough of a question mark over the LS7 to stop me from buying a Z, but I am pulling my heads this winter and sending them to Kohle at AHP to be reworked. I’m going to send them off no matter what, wiggle or no wiggle, I don’t care, I’m just getting them done. I’m looking at possibly doing the lifters and pushrods at the same time, just waiting to gather information to make a good decision. I want peace of mind (as much as reasonably possible) when I drive the car and this seems to be the way to go, imho. Good luck 👍🏻
Edit: I’m also considering trunion upgrade to help with the ticking, but again, I’m gathering information as to whether this will be the right way to go.
Edit: I’m also considering trunion upgrade to help with the ticking, but again, I’m gathering information as to whether this will be the right way to go.
Last edited by CDNZ; 11-13-2018 at 10:28 PM.
#13
OP, I’m at a similar point with my “new to me” Z. I’ve had it a month or so, I’m new to the LS platform and noticed the ticking (is it loud?...to me, yes...compared to other LS7s, don’t really know). Ive been a lurker on CF for years and read most all the guide issue threads. Doing all that reading did not put enough of a question mark over the LS7 to stop me from buying a Z, but I am pulling my heads this winter and sending them to Kohle at AHP to be reworked. I’m going to send them off no matter what, wiggle or no wiggle, I don’t care, I’m just getting them done. I’m looking at possibly doing the lifters and pushrods at the same time, just waiting to gather information to make a good decision. I want peace of mind (as much as reasonably possible) when I drive the car and this seems to be the way to go, imho. Good luck 👍🏻
Edit: I’m also considering trunion upgrade to help with the ticking, but again, I’m gathering information as to whether this will be the right way to go.
Edit: I’m also considering trunion upgrade to help with the ticking, but again, I’m gathering information as to whether this will be the right way to go.
The following users liked this post:
CDNZ (11-14-2018)
#14
OP, I’m at a similar point with my “new to me” Z. I’ve had it a month or so, I’m new to the LS platform and noticed the ticking (is it loud?...to me, yes...compared to other LS7s, don’t really know). Ive been a lurker on CF for years and read most all the guide issue threads. Doing all that reading did not put enough of a question mark over the LS7 to stop me from buying a Z, but I am pulling my heads this winter and sending them to Kohle at AHP to be reworked. I’m going to send them off no matter what, wiggle or no wiggle, I don’t care, I’m just getting them done. I’m looking at possibly doing the lifters and pushrods at the same time, just waiting to gather information to make a good decision. I want peace of mind (as much as reasonably possible) when I drive the car and this seems to be the way to go, imho. Good luck 👍🏻
Edit: I’m also considering trunion upgrade to help with the ticking, but again, I’m gathering information as to whether this will be the right way to go.
Edit: I’m also considering trunion upgrade to help with the ticking, but again, I’m gathering information as to whether this will be the right way to go.
cam idle and exhaust audio
a little more idle and a few small revs
Last edited by 73DBG; 11-17-2018 at 09:57 PM.
#15
Team Owner
Replace the HVAC controller. Common failure.