When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
They said they have a rebuild kit not listed on their website. 375 for the couplers and a bearing. Couplers are from the same manufacturer that supplies GM and thought they were out of Germany.
So I inspected the torque tube and all looks good. Given how much I plan to drive this car and my plans for it, I've elected not to replace anything in the tube.
The clutch is out and I haven't found a smoking gun for the problems I had. I'm hoping it wasn't a shifter adjustment or internal trans failure of sorts. The sound came from the clutch area and I smelled clutch, I'm still not convinced the slave didn't fall. The clutch looks like an OEM clutch with 63k on it. Who is Tommy S?
Your window rolling up only halfway happened to me, you need a new window regulator. The cables go bad in them. Nice color choice by the way! I also need your lift lol, life with a Z would be so much easier.
ECS trans brace installed. Torque tube re-attached. Tomorrow is my birthday and I've negotiated a full day in the garage. I plan to remove the fuel pump, install new oem pump with the racetronix harness and start the cleanup process of the undercarriage.
Not sure if I’d mentioned it here, but get a billet throwout bearing retainer sleeve. Quartermaster makes the most affordable one that I’ve found. Many issues from a melted/deformed stock plastic one
Old fuel pump out, new one in. It's a tight fit, but I used safety wire around the passenger tank hoses to pull them up and around the new pump after I slid it halfway in. I did not have to disconnect the float, I recall having to do that on my c5z fuel pump install. Next up is fishing in and installing the racetronix wiring harness.
If you havent put the clutch in yet would suggest you replace the plastic dumpbell in the main oil gallery to stop the oil from bypassing the filter, have to take the rear cover off to get at it. This link will explain why.
For what it’s worth I talked to Kohle at ahp and he said he has never seen an issue with these (the oil passageway dumbbell) and considered it unnecessary.
I'm still learning about these motors, is this a problem with the LS7 that people typically handle when doing the clutch?
It applies to all LS motors if you are happy having unfiltered oil going around your engine then don't worry about it. The dump bell is there to block the oil and direct it through the filter but it is too small by .020 or about 500 microns and dirt above 20 microns or about .001 will damage internal bearings, so putting a great oil filter in doesn't do any good when the oil just goes past it. This is how as an example a failing cam flaking bits into the oil doesn't get filtered out and then down the road a needle bearing in the roller lifter or in the rocker fails and you have a catastrophic fail of the engine. The real **** off is to fix this problem it is only accessible if you take the motor out or have the clutch out then you can take off the rear cover and replace the plastic dumb bell with a part that fits tight and stops the oil from bleeding through. I just finished pulling a 6.0l apart and all LS motors have this defect. It goes along with the other quality control problems GM has in the manufacturing of LS motors. GM's band-aid solution was lets upgrade the oil filter to a higher pressure relief valve in the filter but unfiltered oil still will just go right past the dumbbell and into the main oil gallery. On mine I got lucky and replaced my failing camshaft with a far superior one before the engine failed and there where signs it would have, score marks on the lifters and in the oil pump so I dug into why the oil filter did not remove the bits and now I know why. This may also shed some light on why some LS7 engines lose rods from wear of the plating on the titanium conrods, speculation on my part but having grit go around the engine sure isn't helping. So as I suggested if I had the engine out or was doing the clutch I for sure would replace the stupid plastic bit.
It's a kwiklift and it's very handy. It gives me all the room I need, and it's pretty portable. Got it from another Vette buddy. If you're looking for something like this, try to catch them at a car show for a discount and no shipping. Also, check into the quickjack from Costco, nearly the same price.
Man....I'm thinking of selling my modded C4 ZR-1 which I have no problems with for a modded C6Z06 or maybe even a C7Z06, the ladder will be of course more funds...
After seeing this and all the issues with the LS7 I'm wondering if its worth it.....I mean I guess it depends on the car ...I hear all about the valve issue with the Z06 but many out there have had this problem taken care of by repairs or swapping out the heads.....Even with this done are they still susceptible to failure from other issues?
Been checking prices on the C6Z and the stock ones are going for as much as the modded ones in some cases....
If I go that route I would like to get one with all the work done,550-580RWHP would be nice...Or, is it better to get a stock one at a price of around 30K and just go with a package from RPM or some other reputable performance shop?
The worse thing is getting a used car than having to dump a lot of money toward getting it right......
12-01-2018, 10:34 AM
