Anyone running this cam LS7
12-10-2018, 04:52 PM
#21
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Thread Starter
I've known 2 cars that have run that cam, both drove great! And I got to drive one half-way across the country. The tune is everything. That cam makes GREAT power and had perfectly normal street manners when tuned correctly. The car I drove made 545 rwhp with stock heads and intake. Pulled hard and was a blast to drive. I never experienced "bucking" unless you chugged it down to like 600 rpm on purpose. But normal driving was great. I personally think it's the tune. But it's your call because it's your car. Good luck with your decision.
12-10-2018, 06:28 PM
#22
Le Mans Master
The specs are identical to the old LS7S cam (it even says LS7Stg3 in the description) which was their 3rd most aggressive behind the LS7R, hence likely the "Stage 3" moniker. Whether the cam lobes are different or what specific changes were made to switch it to the "Stg 3" are only known by TSP. But on that cam card, it's identical. It is a fairly aggressive cam, no doubt, but as I said before the only time the car would "buck" is when I intentionally made it happen to see how low I could go, which was in the 600 rpm range. Like everything performance, there are trade-offs. If there is no bucking or surging below 1K RPM currently, I think your tuner did a decent job. People have to remember, changing to a big cam will also require an adjustment to driving style. You can't just lug around a cammed car like a stock one. You should shift your cruising RPM's a bit higher to compensate (unless there is no lugging...in which case nobody would be posting about it) or change rear gear to keep it higher in the RPM band. This is not a new phenomenon...it's been this way for a very long time. At freeway speed in 6th gear though, it should cruise nicely, if it doesn't...get a better tuner.
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; 12-10-2018 at 06:31 PM. Reason: typo's
12-10-2018, 07:44 PM
#23
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It does cruse very nicely in 5 th and over 80 in 6th. Try to drive at 35 around town is a challenge. 1st and 2nd it surges up until 2500 rpms. I have learned to accelerate and take it out of gear and let it coast as much as possible. I drove a c6 z with a BRT stage 3 cam it drove like stock. My tuner said the 3 should drive good but if you want a stock driving car go with the 2. I don’t race or do track days so I don’t care about mega HP. Just like a good chop
12-10-2018, 08:23 PM
#24
Le Mans Master
Well compare the specs man. The BTR 3 and the LS7S aren't too far apart in specs. So if the tuner can't dial in an LS7S, than a BTR 3 won't be any easier. The BTR 2 is a slightly smaller cam. But still has a decent gap over stock LS7 specs. Inevitably, your call Sir. But I recommend a different driving style first. Far cheaper. But honestly after reading your last post, there should be ZERO surging at any RPM EVER regardless of RPM. That to me sounds like you need a new tune from a more reputable tuner. (Of course, you never mentioned who your tuner was/is.)
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; 12-10-2018 at 08:26 PM.
12-10-2018, 09:01 PM
#25
Sorry to veer from the thread content a bit....
What are your 1/2 mile speeds? Do you have 1/4 mile et and mph numbers? I have spent a lot of time researching camshafts looking for a good all around performer and noticed the specs I am leaning toward are close to the ones you posted.
What are your 1/2 mile speeds? Do you have 1/4 mile et and mph numbers? I have spent a lot of time researching camshafts looking for a good all around performer and noticed the specs I am leaning toward are close to the ones you posted.
12-23-2018, 05:57 PM
#26
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Thread Starter
Well compare the specs man. The BTR 3 and the LS7S aren't too far apart in specs. So if the tuner can't dial in an LS7S, than a BTR 3 won't be any easier. The BTR 2 is a slightly smaller cam. But still has a decent gap over stock LS7 specs. Inevitably, your call Sir. But I recommend a different driving style first. Far cheaper. But honestly after reading your last post, there should be ZERO surging at any RPM EVER regardless of RPM. That to me sounds like you need a new tune from a more reputable tuner. (Of course, you never mentioned who your tuner was/is.)
12-25-2018, 10:51 AM
#27
Le Mans Master
This is a tough call man. I don't like advising people on courses of action that involve spending more money, but it sounds like you've gone through your car enough to find all the small gotchas that could affect drive-ability and none of it has worked. Ironically, if the car was tuned when those issues were present, then correcting the issues could cause issues by themselves. Best thing I can advise is grab a handheld (SCT or similar) and do some data logging. Work with a REPUTABLE tuner to figure out the numbers (Fuel trims, etc) to get your combo sorted. Hopefully, that finds the issue and then the tuner can fix it...or at least uncover the real issue with the hard parts. (EDIT: What I can reiterate to you is that both of the cars I drove with that cam, drove like stock unless you lugged them on purpose.)
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; 12-25-2018 at 11:03 AM.
01-02-2019, 10:25 PM
#28
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Thread Starter
This is a tough call man. I don't like advising people on courses of action that involve spending more money, but it sounds like you've gone through your car enough to find all the small gotchas that could affect drive-ability and none of it has worked. Ironically, if the car was tuned when those issues were present, then correcting the issues could cause issues by themselves. Best thing I can advise is grab a handheld (SCT or similar) and do some data logging. Work with a REPUTABLE tuner to figure out the numbers (Fuel trims, etc) to get your combo sorted. Hopefully, that finds the issue and then the tuner can fix it...or at least uncover the real issue with the hard parts. (EDIT: What I can reiterate to you is that both of the cars I drove with that cam, drove like stock unless you lugged them on purpose.)
01-02-2019, 10:37 PM
#29
Le Mans Master
Check PMs, also...if you can't get the cam dialed in and want to switch, I'll buy it off you real quick.
