[ZR1] ZR1 Issue wont rev up!
01-13-2019, 10:29 PM
#41
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If checked them and all of them are in the right place. The only sensor that I did not found with the car was the MAP sensor from the air intake box. But I bought that one NEW from GM.
01-13-2019, 10:30 PM
#42
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01-13-2019, 11:50 PM
#44
Melting Slicks
I know my first comment was a bit drawn out but I think I should comment again.
Imo you probably arent looking for a single issue. Even if you get this particular issue figured out I'm betting there is a half dozen issues you will need to address before you get to your burnout bonanza.
Imo you probably arent looking for a single issue. Even if you get this particular issue figured out I'm betting there is a half dozen issues you will need to address before you get to your burnout bonanza.
01-14-2019, 08:28 AM
#45
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I know my first comment was a bit drawn out but I think I should comment again.
Imo you probably arent looking for a single issue. Even if you get this particular issue figured out I'm betting there is a half dozen issues you will need to address before you get to your burnout bonanza.
Imo you probably arent looking for a single issue. Even if you get this particular issue figured out I'm betting there is a half dozen issues you will need to address before you get to your burnout bonanza.
01-14-2019, 11:07 PM
#46
Melting Slicks
01-15-2019, 01:18 AM
#47
Drifting
I would get a factory service manual, remove the aftermarket electronic parts and load a stock tune. Then get the car running and tuned before putting the DSX stuff back on.
01-15-2019, 08:22 AM
#48
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01-15-2019, 08:29 AM
#49
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That's a good idea too! But I assume I have a cam too. Does it will run properly with a stock tune?
01-15-2019, 12:25 PM
#50
Pro
Off topic from the engine problems, but the car had a stock size gates HD belt on it. They cut a rib off to run the HD belt. If it has a 14%OD ATI lower then it most likely had a 2.35 upper and has a 76mm idler on the drivers side. I would double check the belt fit.
01-15-2019, 01:24 PM
#51
Drifting
What I see is you have a car that has unknown modifications that does not run correctly. For me it is easier to get to a known documented configuration and that is stock as in the service manual. The example of the black wire that is not connected could be a ground but without documentation it is a guess where it should be connected and electronics don't like guessing. A stock tune and an aftermarket cam may or may not play well together but to find out if the cam is stock you have to look at rear of the cam where most of them are marked. I suggest getting to a known baseline before adding modifications.
Last edited by exracer28; 01-15-2019 at 01:33 PM.
01-15-2019, 01:40 PM
#52
Pro
What I see is you have a car that has unknown modifications that does not run correctly. For me it is easier to get to a known documented configuration and that is stock as in the service manual. The example of the black wire that is not connected could be a ground but without documentation it is a guess where it should be connected and electronics don't like guessing. A stock tune and an aftermarket cam may or may not play well together but to find out if the cam is stock you have to look at rear of the cam where most of them are marked. I suggest getting to a known baseline before adding modifications.
01-15-2019, 02:06 PM
#53
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When the car came it had a stock pulley but a different belt that will not fit on the engine. It was K120842HD belt. I had to buy this one on Lingenlfelter 11PK2185 belt. So I guess that it had a pulley and they put back on the stock one. I don't know why the previous owner had to do something like this.
01-15-2019, 02:12 PM
#54
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Thread Starter
What I see is you have a car that has unknown modifications that does not run correctly. For me it is easier to get to a known documented configuration and that is stock as in the service manual. The example of the black wire that is not connected could be a ground but without documentation it is a guess where it should be connected and electronics don't like guessing. A stock tune and an aftermarket cam may or may not play well together but to find out if the cam is stock you have to look at rear of the cam where most of them are marked. I suggest getting to a known baseline before adding modifications.
01-15-2019, 02:52 PM
#55
Pro
When the car came it had a stock pulley but a different belt that will not fit on the engine. It was K120842HD belt. I had to buy this one on Lingenlfelter 11PK2185 belt. So I guess that it had a pulley and they put back on the stock one. I don't know why the previous owner had to do something like this.
Your best bet bet is to spent 5-600 on HP tuners pro. Grab the tune off the car and send it to a tuner here in the States to look at.
I would also take pictures of the engine bay from many angles and post on here.
01-15-2019, 03:45 PM
#56
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Thread Starter
makes sense. I bet it has a 76 mm idler on the drivers side. 2.35 upper/14% lower with two 76 mm idlers fits a stock size belt. Increase the pulley from 2.35 to stock 3.1 and you would need 3/4 to inch bigger belt.
Your best bet bet is to spent 5-600 on HP tuners pro. Grab the tune off the car and send it to a tuner here in the States to look at.
I would also take pictures of the engine bay from many angles and post on here.
Thx for your time bro
01-15-2019, 04:04 PM
#57
Pro
No problem. You buy the HP tuners software, load it on your computer, then connect the interface to your car and it will copy the tune. You save that, then you can post a copy of the tune. If we as a group can’t figure it out then you could pay for a tuner to look at it. It’s money well spent because it’s the way will you makes changes to the car as you add mods. Once you get a baseline any decent tuner can remote tune your car. I recommend Greg at Kong Performance.
01-16-2019, 10:50 AM
#58
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Thread Starter
No problem. You buy the HP tuners software, load it on your computer, then connect the interface to your car and it will copy the tune. You save that, then you can post a copy of the tune. If we as a group can’t figure it out then you could pay for a tuner to look at it. It’s money well spent because it’s the way will you makes changes to the car as you add mods. Once you get a baseline any decent tuner can remote tune your car. I recommend Greg at Kong Performance.
Here are the pics of my engine.
01-16-2019, 12:04 PM
#59
Pro
So that lid has been on/off a bunch, as have a bunch of items on that motor, including the valve covers. If you have not had the lid off yourself, pull it and make sure the bricks have been reinforced. Also, if you have not done so already do a compression and leak down test. I would not be surprised if the blower was ported already. Other questions, how many miles are on it, whats the VIN and if you don't mind saying what did you pay for it?
01-16-2019, 01:33 PM
#60
Melting Slicks
I'm assuming that from the early description by the OP that the engine consistently dies/stalls at about 2000rpm.
Sorry if I missed the answer to this question, but have you watched what the supercharger pressure gauge does at the moment the engine stops? Or can you distinguish between cause and effect at that point? I mean that it may be that engine dies because of there being no pressure, or, it could mean that the engine died and the result is the supercharger stops putting out???
When the engine dies, does it cough/sputter, or does it sound like there is a vacuum leak at that point, or any point?
Nick
Sorry if I missed the answer to this question, but have you watched what the supercharger pressure gauge does at the moment the engine stops? Or can you distinguish between cause and effect at that point? I mean that it may be that engine dies because of there being no pressure, or, it could mean that the engine died and the result is the supercharger stops putting out???
When the engine dies, does it cough/sputter, or does it sound like there is a vacuum leak at that point, or any point?
Nick