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Head Fix vs Trick Flow

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Old 07-19-2019, 04:36 PM
  #21  
Katech_Zach
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Originally Posted by MPeters1961
My apologies. I will look for that post when I get time. So, in your expert context, do you have an opinion/facts on which valve guide material would be more compatible with certain valve materials? I have read numerous times that bronze is a superior material for lubrication qualities. If valves and seats are concentric, it seems the other factor to eliminate excessive wear would be reduced friction with superior guide material and properly coated valves. Unless the geometry is so horrible, it creates sideloading. Once Katech fixes a set of heads, is that the end of this particular issue? Seems like many are experiencing repeated efforts and expenses to address this problem and I am wondering why. Thank you
Yes, bronze has superior lubricity, but the chrome nitride coating on the stock intake valves is too harsh for the bronze. That is why we only use our molybdenum-coated stem intake valves with bronze guides. I wrote an article on this, which can be found here: http://katechengines.com/wp-content/...159.1559570160

We have had engines come back for rebuild, checked the guides and they show virtually no wear. We recently made a video about it here:
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Old 07-20-2019, 12:03 AM
  #22  
MPeters1961
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Originally Posted by Katech_Jason
Yes, bronze has superior lubricity, but the chrome nitride coating on the stock intake valves is too harsh for the bronze. That is why we only use our molybdenum-coated stem intake valves with bronze guides. I wrote an article on this, which can be found here: http://katechengines.com/wp-content/...159.1559570160

We have had engines come back for rebuild, checked the guides and they show virtually no wear. We recently made a video about it here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpfJZqXCgSg
Jason, thank you and I still have not found the other thread that contains the post I was referring to but, since you cleared up Katech's position, it doesn't matter.
Old 07-20-2019, 01:03 AM
  #23  
AzDave47
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Thru CPR in 2016, my heads were done at WCCH with bronze guides, Katech TiMo intake valves and new OEM exhaust valves. At 12K miles after the heads were done, I had the bottom end done fully forged and the heads were sent back to WCCH, who disassembled them, did all the measurements and reassembled them, all in very good shape. I do a few 1/2 mile, 1 and 1 1/2 mile events, 90 mile events at 150MPH taching ~ 4800 RPM continuous and a few road course events running 4-7K rpm.
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Old 07-30-2019, 08:21 PM
  #24  
REDSEE5
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Hey guys! Just an update. Heard back from TEA and got measurements on my heads before they started messing with them. They said that mine “range from .0018 to .0080. We consider .0018 on up to be out of range and needing to be replaced.”

So, isn’t .0037 what everyone else says? Do my measurements above show that I was literally about to drop a valve? Eeeeekkk! If so, glad I got it in now and didn’t push it off until winter!
Old 07-30-2019, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by REDSEE5
Hey guys! Just an update. Heard back from TEA and got measurements on my heads before they started messing with them. They said that mine “range from .0018 to .0080. We consider .0018 on up to be out of range and needing to be replaced.”

So, isn’t .0037 what everyone else says? Do my measurements above show that I was literally about to drop a valve? Eeeeekkk! If so, glad I got it in now and didn’t push it off until winter!
If they were measured with a bore gauge, the .0037 is the low limit for out of spec., .0018 is in fine shape. .0080 well out of spec. There is no real data on how out of spec the guides need to be before a valve drops, many variables. Early OEM exhaust valves had variable sidewall thickness in the sodium cooled area and were subject to many early failures. After GM went to a "new" spec exhaust valve, which they did not differentiate from the 2006-7 valves, fewer exhaust valves failed and more recently the intake valves seem to be the most common valve to fail.
Old 07-31-2019, 05:35 PM
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REDSEE5
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Ughhhhh!! I thought it was the exhaust valves that were primarily failing. Eeeek starting to really regret getting this thing..Not looking forward to having to worry about a valve dropping every time I drive it.
Old 08-01-2019, 08:56 AM
  #27  
548chevelle
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Just curious. Can stock Ti intake valves be swapped into a set of TFS 260 heads? Do's and don'ts? Comments.
Old 08-01-2019, 05:50 PM
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The stock Ti intake valves are part of the problem. Get an aftermarket moly Ti valve.
Old 08-01-2019, 07:49 PM
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Pb82 Ronin
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Nothing wrong with Trick Flow heads. I've had them on several different engines in my history. I have NEVER had an issue with Trick Flow. No reason to suspect they will be a problem on the LS. Use what your budget will allow you to.
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Old 08-01-2019, 09:10 PM
  #30  
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After all the research I did I didn't want to deal with any factory castings so I put the Gen X 260's on my car about a year and a half ago, haven't had any issues with them. I purchased them with the 370lb springs and titanium retainers and they performed great with the stock cam. I don't have any dyno numbers but my car with a Halltech 103, 1 7/8" ARH headers with cats, BB PRT axle back and TF heads had a slight pull on a stock C6 ZR1 to the top of 4th gear. I recently wrapped up installing a Cam Motion Stage 2 cam, Johnson 2126LSR lifters and milled the heads .010". I start tuning this weekend and I'm eager to see how it runs.
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