Should I do head/cam?
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Should I do head/cam?
0) Talking mild/very street friendly.
1) Will the drive train take it without mod?
2) Make sense to do this only without intake & exhaust mods?
3) Expected gains w/ tune & 95 octane?
4) I do have the biggest rim/tire combo to take the power. See other posts.
I'd appreciate mainly posts from guys who have done this only rather then gone wild with additional mods. Trying to keep the car fun, friendly, fast.
Froggy
1) Will the drive train take it without mod?
2) Make sense to do this only without intake & exhaust mods?
3) Expected gains w/ tune & 95 octane?
4) I do have the biggest rim/tire combo to take the power. See other posts.
I'd appreciate mainly posts from guys who have done this only rather then gone wild with additional mods. Trying to keep the car fun, friendly, fast.
Froggy
#2
Instructor
Your drive train should be fine, intake and exhaust upgrade will definitely help with power gains. I fixed the heads/headers/tune at first and was around 500 rwhp, later I added the MSD intake and BTR stage 2 cam, I am currently at 545 rwhp. The BTR stage 2 drives nice, I don't feel like I gave up much drivability, it's a mild cam. I hope that helps...
#3
Race Director
Thread Starter
Your drive train should be fine, intake and exhaust upgrade will definitely help with power gains. I fixed the heads/headers/tune at first and was around 500 rwhp, later I added the MSD intake and BTR stage 2 cam, I am currently at 545 rwhp. The BTR stage 2 drives nice, I don't feel like I gave up much drivability, it's a mild cam. I hope that helps...
#5
Race Director
Thread Starter
#6
Safety Car
Drive train can handle way more power.
But to keep things friendly, I would recommend a small to mild cam (Cam Motion LS7 Stage 2) and having your factory heads ported (Advanced Induction) and the tolerances checked. Then a good dyno tune.
If you want to get a little more power out of it and more sound, a set of quality headers (Kooks or American Racing) would also be good.
I would skip adding any aftermarket intake as there really isn't much to gain considering the cost. But a shroud over the factory intake would help.
But to keep things friendly, I would recommend a small to mild cam (Cam Motion LS7 Stage 2) and having your factory heads ported (Advanced Induction) and the tolerances checked. Then a good dyno tune.
If you want to get a little more power out of it and more sound, a set of quality headers (Kooks or American Racing) would also be good.
I would skip adding any aftermarket intake as there really isn't much to gain considering the cost. But a shroud over the factory intake would help.
#7
Race Director
Thread Starter
Drive train can handle way more power.
But to keep things friendly, I would recommend a small to mild cam (Cam Motion LS7 Stage 2) and having your factory heads ported (Advanced Induction) and the tolerances checked. Then a good dyno tune.
If you want to get a little more power out of it and more sound, a set of quality headers (Kooks or American Racing) would also be good.
I would skip adding any aftermarket intake as there really isn't much to gain considering the cost. But a shroud over the factory intake would help.
But to keep things friendly, I would recommend a small to mild cam (Cam Motion LS7 Stage 2) and having your factory heads ported (Advanced Induction) and the tolerances checked. Then a good dyno tune.
If you want to get a little more power out of it and more sound, a set of quality headers (Kooks or American Racing) would also be good.
I would skip adding any aftermarket intake as there really isn't much to gain considering the cost. But a shroud over the factory intake would help.
#8
Safety Car
The Haltech Beehive shroud cut to fit the stock Z06 intake or there is a shroud you can find on eBay (Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/C6-Corvette...f8438c232cd3f3.
It just basically isolates the air intake from sucking in hot air from the engine bay so that power remains consistent. A lot of people also combine this with cutting the factory radiator shroud to allow more cool air to get to the front of the intake.
Here is a Haltech Beehive shroud that I had modified to fit the intake on my Grand Sport:
I like the Haltech shroud as it has a clean factory look.
It just basically isolates the air intake from sucking in hot air from the engine bay so that power remains consistent. A lot of people also combine this with cutting the factory radiator shroud to allow more cool air to get to the front of the intake.
Here is a Haltech Beehive shroud that I had modified to fit the intake on my Grand Sport:
I like the Haltech shroud as it has a clean factory look.
#9
I’m on the highly modified spectrum so I’ll stay out of this just wanted to +1 cam motion for what it’s worth 👍🏻
#11
Le Mans Master
Holy hell, that's a big font.
The only thing I made sure to do with my Z06 is upgrade to a twin disc clutch setup; however, I did manage to shred the rear end doing stupid stuff. For the clutch, I started with a twin carbon disc, but hated how it sounded, so I switched to the LS9X (this was before the LT1 clutches existed). My mod multi-year progression on my 2008 Z06 was roughly as follows:
The only thing I made sure to do with my Z06 is upgrade to a twin disc clutch setup; however, I did manage to shred the rear end doing stupid stuff. For the clutch, I started with a twin carbon disc, but hated how it sounded, so I switched to the LS9X (this was before the LT1 clutches existed). My mod multi-year progression on my 2008 Z06 was roughly as follows:
- CAI + Tune
- ^^ + Headers + Twin-disc Clutch (BC2)
- ^^ + RPM Stage 2 differential (shredded the stock one doing a clutch dump and burnout in front of my brother-in-laws house - a $3000 mistake)
- ^^ + Cam & Dual Springs (Ragin Racin' Lethal), changed to LS9X clutch
- ^^ + Ported, shaved heads (higher compression) and stock intake
- Changed to Fast LSX intake and ported throttle body
- Changed to slightly milder cam to improve drivability (too much shaking - not wife friendly)
- Had a cam lobe get eaten by a faulty lifter, and did a complete tear down and rebuild with all forged internals and slightly larger bore (new Ferrea valves, beehive springs, CHE rockers, link-bar lifters), ARE dry sump inserts, pan baffles, Katech oil pump, et. a
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froggy47 (09-06-2019)
#13
Instructor
Give the guys a AHP a call and ask about their 116 CAM and tune. I have their 116 in my car with stock intake and exhaust with X pipe and cat back. I don't understand why you want a 95 Octane tune and are concerned with street friendly driving? Those don't seem to go together but to each his own. You can get most of it with pump gas but the tune is a must.
The following 2 users liked this post by DrackVB:
American Heritage (09-08-2019),
GX427 (09-09-2019)
The following users liked this post:
American Heritage (09-08-2019)
#15
Race Director
Thread Starter
Give the guys a AHP a call and ask about their 116 CAM and tune. I have their 116 in my car with stock intake and exhaust with X pipe and cat back. I don't understand why you want a 95 Octane tune and are concerned with street friendly driving? Those don't seem to go together but to each his own. You can get most of it with pump gas but the tune is a must.
#16
Instructor
#18
Drifting
Do your self a favor and call American heritage performance you won’t regret it I promise. They also have full CA legal setups that make 530-565whp smog passable
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froggy47 (09-09-2019)
#20
Safety Car
I can comment for a cam/intake/full exhaust C5Z with BTR Stage 2 and it's SUUUPER easy to drive on the street. My car is a dual purpose autocross toy/date night toy and DD and I made it clear that I want something that I can drive ANYWHERE and my wife can drive it...the BTR cam and custom tune delivers.
BTR Stage 2 cam
Dorman LS2 intake and LS2 TB
ATI 10% UD pulley
Full exhaust
stock clutch
ONLY time I get any bucking is very low RPM in 1st in a parking lot which sounds worse than it is. I can lug the car at 1000-1500 rpm in 3rd and no issues.
Only thing I would hold off on is maybe the heads to do them later if you want/need more power. But select the cam that works OK without heads now and works well WITH heads if you will do them later.
BTR Stage 2 cam
Dorman LS2 intake and LS2 TB
ATI 10% UD pulley
Full exhaust
stock clutch
ONLY time I get any bucking is very low RPM in 1st in a parking lot which sounds worse than it is. I can lug the car at 1000-1500 rpm in 3rd and no issues.
Only thing I would hold off on is maybe the heads to do them later if you want/need more power. But select the cam that works OK without heads now and works well WITH heads if you will do them later.