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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
Power and ground Start there. Look at where you pulled power for the radio (which is still working???) And where you attached for ground. Perhaps you have power to everything but left a ground wire off or loose.
I have no idea what you installed. Just a head unit? A thousand watt amp?? Did you overload the BCM???
Yep, radio still works just fine (as does most everything else in the car)
Didn't "install" anything. Just did some amp/dsp tuning.
I don't know about the BCM...I could very well have. But typically, doesn't a faulty BCM cause other "serious" issues?
No I'm really stuck. Checked EVERY fuse, relay, and mentioned grounds. All are solid and good. Could I have killed ONE circuit in the BCM? Or killed ONE relay somewhere that I've missed? Now I'm stressing.
It sounds like you do all of your own audio installs. Might be a good ideal to call a local audio shop and ask if they have run into this problem. They might get you going in the right direction.
I can't seem to find my thumb drive that has all your wiring schematics on it. I don't usually suggest throwing parts at something but you seem to have checked everything. There is a pile of used Corvette BCM's on fleabay for short money. You might try that. If I had my schematics, I'd be able to tell you which wires to probe for power out of the BCM but I don't
Oh, to also answer a previous question, the answer is yes. There is 2 relays plugged into the bottom of the BCM that you can't see unless you unbolt it and flip it over.
Isn’t there a way to relearn the BCM by turning on& off the ign.switch a few times Not sure exactly what the time periods are tho . I could be wrong
The only hack that I'm aware of (and I don't actually know if it works) is to remove both battery cables and connect a jumper to both cables, shorting them together and let it sit for at least a hour. This is said to bleed off all residual power from all the modules and cause them to reboot. All at your own risk...
The only hack that I'm aware of (and I don't actually know if it works) is to remove both battery cables and connect a jumper to both cables, shorting them together and let it sit for at least a hour. This is said to bleed off all residual power from all the modules and cause them to reboot. All at your own risk...
my z was without battery power for six months... zero issues when I fired it up after replacing the battery....
UPDATE:
With the scan tool, we found the following:
What I think happened is that the bass from the subs vibrated the clips for the power supply loose and rapidly discharged the battery. I'm running 1800 watts, so when I saw my voltmeter drain from 14.9 down to 10 in less than 2 seconds, I killed the run immediately. But I think that sudden drain took out the door "modules" somehow causing these error faults. This would explain the U1000 code "Class 2 Datalink fault" and why everything else works except the doors. So unfortunately, replacement modules are not readily available from anywhere other than the dealership, so the car is headed there tomorrow. Crushing defeat when you have to surrender the car to the dealership...especially since they would like me to remove my sub box before they'll look into anything.
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; 07-21-2021 at 09:57 AM.
When this happened we were running a power supply (plugged in to the house) which we've run our stuff on for countless hours at a time. My buddies rig has twice the power of mine and the supply was more than enough to tune his. That's why I think a clip popped off the battery when I was "letting her eat." I saw my needle drop SUDDENLY and I killed everything as soon as I saw it. Much like how soon you get off the throttle when you see an oil pressure gauge go to 0 during a WOT run. 1800W RMS running hard on just a battery (even an XS powercell) will kill it quick.
When this happened we were running a power supply (plugged in to the house) which we've run our stuff on for countless hours at a time. My buddies rig has twice the power of mine and the supply was more than enough to tune his. That's why I think a clip popped off the battery when I was "letting her eat." I saw my needle drop SUDDENLY and I killed everything as soon as I saw it. Much like how soon you get off the throttle when you see an oil pressure gauge go to 0 during a WOT run. 1800W RMS running hard on just a battery (even an XS powercell) will kill it quick.
You're dancing around the question. I'm not asking about the external power supply you had attached to the battery. What circuit on the car did you tap into for power to run the amp.
I would not jump the gun and buy new power window modules until you have confirmed they are receiving power and ground
So the culprit was..................................... ............drum roll.................................... ...................
A DAMN BLOWN FUSE! Fuse #33 Battery Main was blown. And it was so barely blown, I glanced right over it about 4 times.
So I got to hand to the dealership techs...they found it the LONG way. And I used this time at the dealership to do a wheel alignment (was a little off since the clutch job), so I'll pick her back up tomorrow. Now the question is...how the hell did that fuse blow?
EDIT: I wonder...does anyone have a circuit diagram for the main battery circuit?
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; 07-27-2021 at 06:39 PM.
"I've checked EVERY fuse in the BCM and under the hood...all good."
Never rely on a visual inspection of electrical components. That cost you exactly what you said you didn't want. Go buy yourself a cheap 12 volt test light.
"I've checked EVERY fuse in the BCM and under the hood...all good."
Never rely on a visual inspection of electrical components. That cost you exactly what you said you didn't want. Go buy yourself a cheap 12 volt test light.
I have one...just was too confident that it wasn't a fuse. Live and learn I suppose. Best possible news that it was an easy fix.
07-13-2021, 12:41 PM
In for the fix. Good luck.
