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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
Hey everyone, I just wanted to do a quick rundown of my build. My goals are to build a 600+whp pump gas z06. My car is a 2006 with 112k miles on it. I thought I got it for a good deal at $27k had 103k miles then and 0 modifications. My heads have done good so far. But it's the winter and I thought it would be the best time to do the heads and cam. Also I'm trying to keep the cost down so some of my parts are were purchased online from individuals and I also choose to save money on the heads as they were around $2300 shipped . I will be updating this post as I remember things or as things change lol
baseline bone stock down to the air filter 1/4 mile pass was a 11.42@122
https://youtu.be/hMhpLNuntnk
baseline bone stock down to the air filter 1/8th 7.15@102
https://youtu.be/wFMxrT2WXC8
Baseline Dyno was 458whp 458wtq car was bone stock down to the air filter and apparently a few bad cam lobes
I just recently started pulling the car down and discovered a few damaged lifters and a few really bad cam lobes. So I'm glad I didn't wait any longer to do the work. Would have just been putting extra metal in my oil. Probably down 10whp too lol
And for the parts I'm installing
Heads- Wilkes performance cnc aftermarket castings milled .030 . Brad@ speedworks have me a great price on these heads but to be honest Wilkes does take some time to get them to you,but Brad was great to deal with and always honest about it. They are currently being hand finished by ironmask airflow innovations for maximum performance. Some short videos of the heads before they were shipped to ironmask.
https://youtube.com/shorts/-WZFEKabLdA?feature=share
Advertised flow numbers before going to ironmask
Camshaft- patg stage3 245/256 .657"/.655" 111LSA +4 aka "the beast"
Lifters- ZZ performance short travel
Pushrods- 1/2" x7.775" chromoly can't remember the brand at the moment.
Rocker arms- Yella terra
Atl crank pulley %10 ud
stock head gaskets
TIming setup- katech C5r chain with new oem sprockets
New gaskets everywhere I took one off
also found a power steering hose that has been sweating I'm going to replace.
For the bolt ONS
I'm currently looking for a good deal on a msd intake manifold im going to send it out to ironmask airflow innovations for their shirt runner option and porting. After he does his magic the intake doesn't lose any low end torque over a unported msd.
Throttle body- haven't bought one yet. Probably some kinda 102mm+
headers- 2" hooker blackheart tri-y. Got the tri-y because they were on sale for $500. But if a lower price 2" long tube comes out I'll probably switch. At this point I'm going to have to fab up my own xpipe and I have speed engineering mufflers.
Air intake- zips performance mamba intake manifold. I really like this intake it looks great!
I think that's it. Ask any questions,any suggestions welcome, and if anyone wants pictures of anything just ask. Maybe even guess a Dyno number.
That's a juicy cam, very interested in how much power it makes along with the aftermarket castings. With the 111 LSA, the tuner is going to be extra busy but this will haul at higher rpms.
Seems like a 600+ rwhp setup all day and night long, looking forward to seeing how deep in the 600s it makes.
I hope the pushrods are not 1/2 inch as they will never fit and are not needed. I think you might have meant 3/8 pushrods. Stick with a standard size balancer the 10% UD have been known to have AC belt throwing issues.
They are 1/2" pushrods. I got a good deal on them. They taper down to the stock pushrod size at on the ends. I can get another set if these are to big. But as if right now they seat in the lifter and rocker as the factory ones did and also fit through the head with plenty of clearance. I figured if anything the pushrods might help add a small amount of stability to the valve train. And for the pulley I've already ordered that and will have to take my chances lol
I hope you intend to measure the pushrod length and not just throw those 1/2" ones in and hope the preload is correct. Different cam base circles, lifter types, valve seat depth, and head milling can cause the PR length to vary widely from engine to engine, and that's not something you want to just be guessing if you're looking for a 7000+ RPM 600whp engine to last. A set of cheap 3/8 .080" wall pushrods in the correct length would far outperform thick 1/2" ones that were the incorrect length. I don't mean to talk ill on you build, but I see a lot of these cars underperform or eat cams, lifters, and float valves due to poorly speced valvetrain parts.
Oh, and if you're going to fab up an x pipe anyway, someone is selling a set of 2" ARH brand new for $1200 shipped in the C6 parts FS section.
I hope you intend to measure the pushrod length and not just throw those 1/2" ones in and hope the preload is correct. Different cam base circles, lifter types, valve seat depth, and head milling can cause the PR length to vary widely from engine to engine, and that's not something you want to just be guessing if you're looking for a 7000+ RPM 600whp engine to last. A set of cheap 3/8 .080" wall pushrods in the correct length would far outperform thick 1/2" ones that were the incorrect length. I don't mean to talk ill on you build, but I see a lot of these cars underperform or eat cams, lifters, and float valves due to poorly speced valvetrain parts.
Oh, and if you're going to fab up an x pipe anyway, someone is selling a set of 2" ARH brand new for $1200 shipped in the C6 parts FS section.
I appreciate the info. And I'm absolutely going to check to make sure the length is correct. The length was a suggested starting point from pat g. Unfortunately next item to buy on my list is a msd intake manifold.
The pushrods are too big they may not fit in the cylinder head holes as the pushrods do move around so you need side clearance. Any pushrod is going to taper down to the cup diameter. To be correct the last inch would need to be tapered not just what you have there. A good deal does not mean it is correct. A good 3/8 pushrod will work just fine and give you the clearance you need - your spring pressure is only going to be 400-450 pounds open that is not that much in todays world. Talk to Manton pushrods they will get you what you need. Return the balancer taking your chances on that part is not a good idea because pulling the balancer is not fun - if you don't want ac then that is fine too. A smaller balancer really does not get you much in performance. You can exchange it - they still get your money.
Why would the balancer sling a/c belts? Is there a flaw in the design? Ati is a good brand. There's a shorter belt available that I was planning on using.
Why would the balancer sling a/c belts? Is there a flaw in the design? Ati is a good brand. There's a shorter belt available that I was planning on using.
ATI didn't machine a lip on the rear of the AC pulley like on their stock diameter unit, so it just relies on the ribs of the AC belt to keep the belt on. Several have had the AC belt come off due to this and brought it up to ATI, yet they refuse to change the design.
I run that damper and a shorter AC belt. Thought that was the fix since my belt never came off, til I tore the car apart for more mods about 1000 miles later..
You can see in the pic that the belt is half way off. Not sure how long it had been that way but it was just a matter of time til it came off completely.
ATI didn't machine a lip on the rear of the AC pulley like on their stock diameter unit, so it just relies on the ribs of the AC belt to keep the belt on. Several have had the AC belt come off due to this and brought it up to ATI, yet they refuse to change the design.
I run that damper and a shorter AC belt. Thought that was the fix since my belt never came off, til I tore the car apart for more mods about 1000 miles later..
You can see in the pic that the belt is half way off. Not sure how long it had been that way but it was just a matter of time til it came off completely.
I hope the pushrods are not 1/2 inch as they will never fit and are not needed. I think you might have meant 3/8 pushrods. Stick with a standard size balancer the 10% UD have been known to have AC belt throwing issues.
I agree with both the above. The ATI UD balancer has a very small flange and is known to throw the AC belt which may take out the big belt.
What valves are you going to use? I would not recommend re-using any valves that had been run in out of spec guides and if OEM valves are in your engine, the mileage is too much to reuse.
I had the Pfadt 1 7/8" Tr-ys and replaced with ARH 2" 4:1 LTs. I gained 50 #-ft of rwtq at 2500 RPM, see graph attached.
I agree with both the above. The ATI UD balancer has a very small flange and is known to throw the AC belt which may take out the big belt.
What valves are you going to use? I would not recommend re-using any valves that had been run in out of spec guides and if OEM valves are in your engine, the mileage is too much to reuse.
I had the Pfadt 1 7/8" Tr-ys and replaced with ARH 2" 4:1 LTs. I gained 50 #-ft of rwtq at 2500 RPM, see graph attached.
The valves are stainless steel. I don't know the brand. That's a good question I can ask Wilkes.
AZ Dave. That's a great comparison between the headers. Was the x pipe the same diameter and catted/catless? And how much of a difference do you think the primary size made?
AZ Dave. That's a great comparison between the headers. Was the x pipe the same diameter and catted/catless? And how much of a difference do you think the primary size made?
Both the graphs had catted x-pipes in standard size to my B&B 3" Fusion Extreme mufflers. I am sure the primary size makes a difference and would always recommend that 2" primaries should be the main choice of those going full HCI unless extreme build. Your cam is a little stronger than my K501 , but in the same range. Overall I would say that generic Tri-Y's are not the best choice for built LS7 engines, design being as much a factor as primary size.
My build at that time had:
Katech K501 cam
Katech TiMo intake valves
PSI 1511 springs
Ti retainers
OEM exhaust valves
WCCH P&P OEM heads with .030" shaved.
MSD intake ported by Mamo
NW 102 TB
McLeod RXT 1000 clutch and Billet steel flywheel
Standard ATI dampner. Katech billet tensioner
DeWits radiator with IOC and ITC.
B&B Fusion Extreme mufflers/cat Back, so full 3"" to tail pipe.
It looks like your build should be in the mid 600whp range. Is it just the cam that's makes the difference in the extra hp? Or is there something different that other cars that your car is missing part wise? Or maybe just others are on generous Dyno? And please don't take these questions as an insult to your build. 604whp is pretty awesome! I'm just trying to take care of the small stuff that may add up to extra hp here and there while the car is tore down.
01-09-2022, 10:34 AM
Tundraguy build thread
