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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
c6z, battery in rear cubby. I have a 2/0 engine ground cable (from block to ground point) as well as a 4 gauge backup ground strap from pass cyl head to ground point. I'm in nc.
Which relay is this? Or put another way, where is this relay located? I'll totally take a look.
Side note/question...would this relay being bad trigger a cel? If so...it's likely not the case as i have no codes.
NO !!.....the MIL is ONLY set if there are emission related issues with the car...not for the starting circuit.
Anyone think the ignition switch could cause it? Not sure that's how the switch really works...but at this point, aside from removing everything electronic from the car and starting over, I don't know how many more kitchen sinks there are to throw at it.
What you can do to see it is the “load” side of the starting circuit when it is not starting is to remove the crank relay 43 and jump pins 87 and 30…on wiring schematic this is denoted as terminals C14 to A13….87 and 30 are diagonally across from each other…you can even swap the relay with another 4 pin mini relay like the defogger relay….maybe swap relays first just try to jumper 87 and 30…what year is the car ??…good idea to fill out your profile…location too…you may live in my town.
Hey Rob/forum members, I've found a pretty good way to jump the 87/30 pins. I used to use staples and a jumper wire with alligator tips on each end, but now I've done this; I simply went to Lowes/Home Depot/fill in the blank, and rooted thru their junk wire barrel, the one that they use for when they come to the end of a spool. Anyway, for me, #14-2 w/ground works great. I only needed an inch or two. Took the wire home, and pulled out the ground wire. Cut a piece about 1-1/2"-2" long. The wire is just a bit too large to go into the female relay contacts. So I put each end in a vise, and pinched a slight flat spot, about 1/2" long as measured from each end. Then I bent it into a staple, or loop shape. Then you simply press each end into #87 and #30 to complete the circuit. On my C5, which may be slightly different than the C6, the relay doesn't even need to be installed. At least, on my A/C relay circuit it didn't. Hope this helps someone out.....
Hey Rob/forum members, I've found a pretty good way to jump the 87/30 pins. I used to use staples and a jumper wire with alligator tips on each end, but now I've done this; I simply went to Lowes/Home Depot/fill in the blank, and rooted thru their junk wire barrel, the one that they use for when they come to the end of a spool. Anyway, for me, #14-2 w/ground works great. I only needed an inch or two. Took the wire home, and pulled out the ground wire. Cut a piece about 1-1/2"-2" long. The wire is just a bit too large to go into the female relay contacts. So I put each end in a vise, and pinched a slight flat spot, about 1/2" long as measured from each end. Then I bent it into a staple, or loop shape. Then you simply press each end into #87 and #30 to complete the circuit. On my C5, which may be slightly different than the C6, the relay doesn't even need to be installed. At least, on my A/C relay circuit it didn't. Hope this helps someone out.....
Hey Mike, looks like a good setup and that you flattened the contacts…don’t want to spread the terminals apart…I like my “U Activate”…plug it into the relay socket and flip the switch to activate the load side of the relay…also it can check out all 4 relay terminals and has an current loop to measure current flow
Exactly - either rig something up like the “you switch” tool and use it once everything heat soaks or do a big extension pigtail out to a relay somewhere else outside of the engine bay heat. This is temporary but I really do feel it’s the issue. Or have a spare relay you keep cool in your car, heat soak, quickly swap it and see how it starts when really hot with a cold relay.
Or be like grinder and have 2 wires you click together in your cabin somewhere like you are hot wiring it lol same idea different form
if it's a new starter or old, I take it apart and add more grease to the gears, makes it spin like crazy !!! How come nobody is mentioning the titanium rod issue ???
if it's a new starter or old, I take it apart and add more grease to the gears, makes it spin like crazy !!! How come nobody is mentioning the titanium rod issue ???
Brand new AC Delco starter. Literally has less than 10 starts on it. I mentioned the titanium concern in the original post. My blackstone report had 0 ppm of titanium.
I checked my relays...cranking, powercontrol, and starter. All looked perfect. I swapped them all around, so we'll see if that matters. Probably not.
Its when the relays themselves get heat soaked and hot that it will happen. Being in good shape or not when cold doesn’t mean a thing. That fuse box gets insanely warm when it’s all heat soaked and if the relay gets weak and doesn’t give full power to the starter solenoid then bada boom.
Brand new AC Delco starter. Literally has less than 10 starts on it. I mentioned the titanium concern in the original post. My blackstone report had 0 ppm of titanium.
I think you just have high resistance in the crank relay load side contacts…if the car is starting normally now I’d remove the cover from the relay and see if the contacts are burned…if so that will create high resistance in the juice getting down to the starter solenoid…if you have a DVOM a voltage drop check from starter fuse 30 to the stud on the starter solenoid would verify that…no guessing !!…not a good idea to swap 3 relays around…you just may make more trouble for yourself !!
I put a new ACD starter and crank sensor in mine, helped but didn't fix it.
I then put a ACD 750cca battery in it [direct fit] and no issues since.
Not to say that is everyone's issue, but it fixed mine.
I put a new ACD starter and crank sensor in mine, helped but didn't fix it.
I then put a ACD 750cca battery in it [direct fit] and no issues since.
Not to say that is everyone's issue, but it fixed mine.
Just to be clear, you were experiencing good cold starts and bad hot starts, correct? I just replaced my starter and crank sensor which helped a bit, but I'm looking into a new battery now to (hopefully) fully resolve the issue.
Just to be clear, you were experiencing good cold starts and bad hot starts, correct? I just replaced my starter and crank sensor which helped a bit, but I'm looking into a new battery now to (hopefully) fully resolve the issue.
The battery doesn’t get hot … not sure what it will do to improve the situation
The battery doesn’t get hot … not sure what it will do to improve the situation
Exactly, that's why I'm asking. I remember seeing a post or two where members said that a new battery helped resolve their hot start issue, but it was usually in conjunction with other fixes done at the same time. I'm due for a new battery anyway, so I'll be looking into a Group 34 for the additional CCAs.
Just to be clear, you were experiencing good cold starts and bad hot starts, correct? I just replaced my starter and crank sensor which helped a bit, but I'm looking into a new battery now to (hopefully) fully resolve the issue.
Correct. fine cold, slow cranking hot, twice bad enough for a no start.
90g is the number on the receipt. But it is 600cca and 750ca, not 750cca I stated earlier.
Hey Mike, looks like a good setup and that you flattened the contacts…don’t want to spread the terminals apart…I like my “U Activate”…plug it into the relay socket and flip the switch to activate the load side of the relay…also it can check out all 4 relay terminals and has an current loop to measure current flow
You've sure got a LOT of diagnostic stuff Rob!! Happy Thanksgiving to you and all the other forum members!!🦃🦃
11-21-2022, 02:11 PM
