Lights ZR1

That’s fair. It’s not great for the cats though.

I know it’s either the gas or the attack blue filter causing the problem.

Colonel

Consider this... It takes 9.14oz of Boostane per gallon to take 93 octane to 106. A 32oz bottle treats 3.5 gallons at this rate. If, however, you only need 96 octane (like yourself), it takes only .17oz/gal and a bottle mixes with 188 gallons! My point is with regards to the cats (which I agree don't like most octane boosters very much)... .17oz per gallon is miniscule and I have to believe that running this very diluted mixture for a short time for testing will have minimal impact on the life of your cats.

https://boostane.com/wp-content/uplo...rt_2021png.svg

Colonel

"I know it’s either the gas or the attack blue filter causing the problem."

I would submit that IF it's real KR then it is most likely the mods or the gas. And if it's not then....the search continues.

But is it real?

Lights ZR1

I have new 41-104 spark plugs and the UPF48R oil filter coming. Rock Auto had them for $7.48 a piece, same price for the oil filter. They did have the spark plug wires but you had to search for them and they ship from 5 different locations! And they bang you out for shipping for each. Next!

I am looking into spark plug wires now and I am confused to say the least. I have been recommended Firecore50, but there is like 50 different options. Next step is Techron. I have my original air filter that is basically spotless. If the Attack Blue somehow turns out to be the problem (it wasn't before this) I will order a new one, just don't want to be out $108 if I don't know for sure.

We will also test the sensors. I can find a way to datalog if needed...

Apocolipse

Don’t worry about the cats - toss some boostane in there before you change any of your plugs wires etc as it will make the plugs orange.

My guess is it’s false knock. Shitty part is you have a full tank of gas now and for boostane to mix is going to be a challenge lol

grinder11

I would say definitely not. I'm not a chemist, but I would think the older the gasoline gets, the less volatile it becomes.

Colonel

As gas gets older it's octane does drop. However, I don't think it drops much in just a few months but I could be wrong.

Lights ZR1

Took it for a looooooooooooooooooooooooongggggggggggg drive today. Ran it down to the small line before empty and filled up with 15.7 gallons of Sunoco 94.

I was seeing partial throttle KR earlier today also. No where near WOT. 2.5 degrees, 3rd and 4th midrange RPM or so.

Now we see if the 94 fixes it. The one halfhearted pull back onto the highway showed 0.0.

Plugs, wires going in soon.

305.5 miles, 15.66~ gallons. 19.5 mpg~ hand calculated. The first 1/3 of a tank was mixed driving from 2 week ago. I have no doubt this thing could do 22 or 23 on a long cruise. And I tipped into the blower multiple times to pass, varied speeds, 70-90.

CamayroZ

I would suggest changing your spark plugs and wires. I bought a 800mi ZR1 last year which was “babied” and all stock. I removed and replaced the plugs and even though they had burned clean they looked age. I probably did not need to replace the wires, but untouched for 11 years two of them were absolutely stuck to the plugs.

The whole job is as easy as changing that air filter back to stock. If you need part numbers for stock I have them.

Lights ZR1

I have ACDelco 41-104 plugs and FireCore 50 wires waiting to go in.

CamayroZ

I had 41-104 and put in 41-104. I also don’t have a display to see KR!

Lights ZR1

I’m using a Dashlogic on firmware 1.21. No idea if it’s real KR or not but I know it used to be at 0.0 always.

Colonel

If the fresh 94 octane took the KR to zero then it would seem that it was real....especially if this continues to be the case.

Lights ZR1

I didn’t get into it yet. Truthfully I was scared too. Probably should have but tipping into boost seemed fine. In the past I’d only see like 0.2 or 0.4 KR in between shifts. Even before the clutch was let back in or the engine would move. I hit some boost merging back onto the highway and didn’t see anything after getting the 94.

I was doing a half hearted tunnel blast in 3rd and 4th burning out the old gas and saw 2.5~ KR. But then other partial throttles nothing. At maybe half throttle. So this not just a WOT thing.

I think I will run this tank through before doing anything silly. Plugs and wires might be going in next weekend. Then the fun will be begin lol.

drewz06

i hate to say it but this forum is not really going to help you with this problem...

unless you have hptuners and knowledge of how tuning actually works, any responses you receive on this thread are simply guesses.

if the car drives fine, but you feel there is still a problem, you need to take it to a reputable tuner....

no one here can tell you what your REAL problem is unless they're standing next to your car with a laptop and the ability to scan/diagnose.

there are far too many variables for someone to diagnose your problem over the internet... IF there is actually a problem.

you've spent enough money on the car itself, spend a little more to get it diagnosed by people who do this for a living.

-drew

Higgs Boson

are you logging burst knock also? log it and see if it matches your knock pid.

burst knock is spark lead pulled in advance of actual knock based on preset criteria in the calibration.

I don't really see a problem with a couple random degrees of actual knock here and there anyways, just enjoy the drive, buying a new igntion system over a couple degrees of knock is taking away from the enjoyment of the drive, unless you like changing parts of course, which I understand completely.

Lights ZR1

Well it’s still knocking. But less. WOT in 2nd showed 0, 3rd showed a peak of 1.8 down to 1.0 as the revs rose. WOT in 6th shows max 3.4~. But also 0 sometimes.

But I was also seeing 27.5 degrees of timing at WOT and I know for a fact that’s wrong. 22-23 max I thought?

So now it’s down to Dashlogic being crap and reporting wrong numbers or this Attack Blue filter being a POS. Or the car is somehow tuned.

The Attack Blue is coming out. If that’s the problem, the “no tune needed” claim is going away. I can’t get the actual OEM, it’s just the old Z06 version.

Lights ZR1

Does stability and traction induced spark cut show up as knock retard? I turned everything off and suddenly it was 0.0! Or 0.4 at the most for second.

The KR in 6th stopped too mostly. 1.5 at the most. KR going for it in 3rd shows like 3.5-6.5 with everything on. PTM Mode 5 or everything offf, ZERO.

Then I put the OEM filter back in, date coded April 2009, larger filtering elements so it’s rhe ZR1 version. 0.0 KR regardless. Saw a brief flash of 1.5-1.9 as I let off the throttle quickly coming up the redline in 3rd. Everything was on though might be traction control. No KR in 4th 5th or 6th.

I was still seeing 22.5-26.0 degrees at WOT. Maybe Dashlogic is wrong.

TKO may need to do away with that “no tune necessary” line.

I’m paranoid this did some kind of damage but I never heard anything.

The Attack Blue does have dyno proven gains. LHT Performance did a back to back dyno run years back. No resets or anything There was only a leak 5hp pickup towards the redline, but nearly 30 horsepower and torque bump in the midrange, I want to say 3-5k rpm? Peak AFR went from 11.7 with OEM down to 11.3 with Attack Blue where those gains were made and it was richer the entire pull.

Colonel

Dashlogic doesn't make the numbers...it just reports them. You're getting close to your answer I believe. Perhaps the stock filter is best in your case. It's a great filter for stock to moderate builds, IMO.

Lights ZR1

Perhaps yes. Just can’t get them anymore. If you order from Rock Auto you get the smaller pleat version. Maybe a vendor has ZR1 specific. My OEM filter is date coded April 09, doesn’t have a single thing stuck in it LOL!