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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
I'm not sure what you want to know. It looks like a decent parts list. I would probably replace the valve springs since you don't know how many miles are on them.
Is this the Supersonic Blue one close to Atlanta?
I've talked to the owner. He traded it in on a BMW M2C
Yeah i saw that at the Bmw dealer, what a downgrade! Once you modify the M2C the same way, you spin crankhubs, and the sound is disgusting unless you buy equal length exhaust. Took me $10k to fix both those issues on the M4.
OP, for a little more you can get a 2009 Z06 with 21k miles and proper recaro seats, and I'll provide the same warranty that bmw was going to provide for selling that one also
Its always a risk getting a modded vette or any modded car. I have a TSP cam as well with almost identical specs. It's a great sounding lope at idle cam. I have 30k miles on the TSP cam now. But, I opted to rebuild the LS7 (at 67k miles, currently at 99k miles) since I was the 9th owner and one of the main cap bearing bolts was backing out. My C6Z is a 2008. I do not autocross or track my C6Z. Just spirited driving and I'll break the rear loose every once in a while. Tire are expensive....or at least the one that grip really well. The good thing is that if some work needs to be done on the C6Z, parts are available at the auto parts store down the street.
I would drop $45k on this if the pre-purchase inspection was positive. But I would set aside $3-5k just in case since it is already modded.
Also keep in mind an UNmodded C6Z is a whole shitload of fun!!!
I have bought a number of modded cars and it has (mostly) worked out well; however, get as much backstory as you can. Then, hope for the best but be prepared for the worst .
The most recent highly modded car I bought worked out ok however:
- the gas door would not open, PO had installed a different shifter & neglected to reconnect the electronic button
- Speedo had not been calibrated & was 10% off
- engine did not have the advertised super-fancy valvetrain
- brake caliper bolts had been left off and caliper was held on by grinding on the inside of the wheel
- 'built' diff had been built by monkeys (parts all mangled, they did not use the correct tools), developed a whine on the drive home & required a rebuild.
And I consider the above as mostly 'getting off light' Note in my case I do not blame the PO as he had owned it only a few months, almost all work had been done by others.
Assume that at best there will be minor issues to work through.
I'll give you another perspective and I say this knowing I am NOT always right... I've never bought a new car for myself. I've bought several for my wife. That is the way I roll.
I could not read most of what you've posted about what has been done to the car. I would first investigate the Cam and the Undercarriage. If the Cam is a radical and very High Lift Cam and the undercarriage and wheel barrels look like it has never been touched or cared for, I'd look elsewhere. I'd also determine who did the work. If I couldn't satisfy myself on these issues, I'd walk away.
I would look the car over, in GREAT DETAIL and VERY CAREFULLY. I would do so with pen and paper. EVERYTHING about the car that does not look like NEW, I would write it down and rate it on a scale of 1 to 10 with a 10 being PERFECT. What you are scoring is of the things that matter most to you, what is the level of effort to get the car the way you want it. Doing this on the undercarriage is just as important as the paint. If the cars "topside" is all 8 to 10s and the undercarriage looks like a car with 50K miles and looks like it has NEVER been touched, I'd walk away. Even most of the best detailers will not touch the undercarriage. If the topside is shiny and bottom side has been left to takes its lumps, I'd walk as it is an indication of the owners tolerance of good enough.
I'd then drive the car. Hard, if necessary to determine if any concerns are identified. I do so with the mindset that I would never have a problem taking a chance on a car that has CLEARLY been babied and or well taken care of regardless of mileage.
I've already gone through a lot of cars and trucks in my lifetime. I'm not hard on them and don't abuse them. At all times, and especially with my man-toys, I care for them in the best way I am capable. If I can't or don't want to do work that is needed, I pay for the best I can find to do it for me. I hold myself accountable to determining if there is ever anything wrong with my vehicles, new or used, in the first 30 days and yes, that means I to drive it until I think I'm satisfied. I have always felt competent enough to determine if a car has a major problem. I measure my satisfaction with the vehicle running cold and after is has had the chance for the drive-train to the point of heat-soak. This has to be done several times in the first 30 days. I've only been surprised once and it was with a brand-new Lincoln Navigator. Otherwise, this process hasn't let me down. I'm not saying it couldn't fail me or could never miss something. I am saying, however, as long I believe I know what it is I'm buying and the price I'm paying, the risk of buying used (to me) is worth it. I've enjoyed a number of very expensive cars I otherwise would not have been able to afford.
I'd much rather be lucky than good. What I've tried to described is what I would call a risk mitigation process. Good luck with whatever decision you make.
Since you are back to square one, I'd say go for a 2009 or 2010.. 2011 the oil cooler moved to the rad, and in 12 they changed rod bearings (supposedly not as good as the old lead ones). So the last and best upgrades my .02 -> upgraded steering in 2009 and move to Bosch electronics.. Color is king, here's a breakdown by year..
(BTW my cars are stock and have PLENTY of power.. as in you can easily spin tires in first and second, more powa wont mean much without stickies.. oh and yes send the heads off to get done if you have no history on them, good info here on who and how much)
What year did they fix the heads issue? Or did it effect all C6Zs?
GM never acknowledge it to the point of correcting the heads from the factory. So all C6Zs are potentially affected. The vast majority of C6Z owners will fix the heads for peace of mind (self included) . Depending on the shop you choose, I would estimate about $2k-5k to get the "heads fixed." If the worst happens (valve drop...engine goes ka'boom), you are looking at building an engine which is approx $15k-25k. LS7 are no longer offered from the factory/GM.
When "fixed" are they fixed? Or still failure-prone?
We rework/fix more LS7 heads than anyone in the business and have for years and years now!
Our package 4 is a a great fix for the LS7 heads. Thousands of our package 4 fixed LS7 heads out there running strong
Here is a link: https://americanheritageperformance....cylinder-heads
04-27-2024, 12:28 PM
Car lot: Heads/Cam built C6 Z06. Should I ?
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