For those doing their own install, here are a few tips that will save you some time and frustration. Thought us DIY'ers would let future installers benefit from our experience. Feel free to add your tips to the list. By the way, none of this is mentioned in the instructions.

1. Remove your water pump. Install the main bracket, then reinstall the pump. You can spend a few hours figuring our that you cannot access the lower bracket bolt with the pump in place.

2. Clock the head unit as far clockwise as you can toward the drain plug. BUT, be sure and leave enought space to get a socket on the plug, between the plug and the cap screw, so you can remove the drain for your oil changes. I discovered this the hard way and had to completely remove the head unit and re-clock it slightly, to gain access to the plug with a socket, to do my first oil change. PITA.

3. There is a useless bracket mounted on the rearmost intake maniflold bolts that covers the rear of the fuel rails. Saw the bracket off being carefull with the shavings. Then remove the bolts and discard the brackets. These brackets are useless and will not allow the fuel rails to fit properly with the new larger injectors.

4. Use T-bolts instead of the (very) cheap Autozone hose clamps.

5. Make sure the head unit discharge aligns properly so the attaching tube will pass between the frame and front sway bar.

6. Go ahead and do the Big Bolas modification so you can move the intercooler away from the radiator/ac coils. The further you move it, the more air will get to the radiator. However, if you move it too far forward, you may need to cut some of the plastic shrouding near the front of the nose for clearence.

7. Use a 160* T'stat, and when you send off your PCM to be reprogramed, ask that your fan temp settings be set to the lowest temps possible. I failed to do this, and I think my settings were lowered by a whooping 10 degrees! My fans come on at 216 degrees, which ain't soon enough, IMHO!

8. Use a Gatorback belt. Period. I've had zero issues with belt slippage.

Had I know some of this prior to beginning my install, I could have easily saved a minimum on 10 hours, probably more! Good luck and happy wrenching.

 

Good advise, but I have to disagree with #'s 1 and 4.

There is absolutely no reason to remove the waterpump. I've installed ProChargers on 2 C6's, and had no problems what so ever mounting the main bracket.

At 6 psi of boost, the worm clamps are just fine. You can replace them if you want it to look better, but other than that, there is no other reason to replace them.

 

I don't know if ProCharger has changer their design, but the last two DIY'er here on this forum had the exact issue with having to R&R the waterpump.

 

Well, I doubt they have. I installed one of their 'beta' kits, then another one about 2 weeks ago, and pretty much everything was identical.

 

That's weird, huh? 'Course, they also sent me the incorrect main bracket, which cost me a few hours of frustration attempting to figure out if I was just stupid, or was the bracket wrong.

 

and what was the conclusion you came up with?

 

I sent them a pic of the bracket they sent with the original kit. Just looking at it, it looked like the one in the instructions, so I didn't give it a second thought. Assumed I was just crazy. Anyway, they got back to me immediately and said I was not crazy, but they had sent me the wrong bracket. They overnighted the correct bracket. It's much easier with the correct bracket.

 

you have to remove the water pump. there is no way you are getting the allen head bolt in the head that hold the bracket on without doing so....i guess you could grind but six bolts is pretty easy to undo.

even with the bollas mod i am still going to re work the intercooler bracket to move it up some. i still have issues with bolts touching the intercooler