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St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Please explain "forged bottom"
I've heard the term over and over again. I think I understand it to mean beefing up the crank and pistons. What else is involved. I ask out of practical concern. My C6 has a D1Sc, heads, cam, headers, exhaust, competition clutch/flywheel and puts out 586rwhp/506rwtq.
I've heard the term over and over again. I think I understand it to mean beefing up the crank and pistons. What else is involved. I ask out of practical concern. My C6 has a D1Sc, heads, cam, headers, exhaust, competition clutch/flywheel and puts out 586rwhp/506rwtq.
Forged low compression pistons and forged rods are the recommended minimum for a forged rebuild.
The stock LS_ cranks are pretty robust and can be retained while still making serious power.
In order to stroke a motor for additonal cubic inches,
stroker rods and a stroker crank is required.
So, many people will buy stroker rods and a stroker crank when doing a forged rebuild because you get the extra cubes for basically just the additional cost of the stroker crank.
Your 6.0 LS2 will become a 402ci with a stoker rebuild.
I you used the new 6.2 block (L92, LS3) you will net 418ci.
The extra cubes will improve your low end power of your centrifugal combination.
With a smaller pulley and the bigger motor,
you will build boost faster and your low end performance will be greatly improved.
In addition to the extra power,
you will gain the peace of mind that a forged motor will bring.
I've heard the term over and over again. I think I understand it to mean beefing up the crank and pistons. What else is involved. I ask out of practical concern. My C6 has a D1Sc, heads, cam, headers, exhaust, competition clutch/flywheel and puts out 586rwhp/506rwtq.
Thanks in advance for the info.
Jeff
Jeff, the factory crankshaft is good for 900 to 1000 hp. In fact, I've never seen one break. Unless you want more cubes, all you need are better rods and pistons. I'd also add ARP head studs. Bob
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Originally Posted by EPP
Jeff, the factory crankshaft is good for 900 to 1000 hp. In fact, I've never seen one break. Unless you want more cubes, all you need are better rods and pistons. I'd also add ARP head studs. Bob
Guys, thanks for the validation. I have no intention going beyond what I currently have. BTW, put ARP head studs in when the AFR heads went on.
Forged implies forged pistons and rods. Almost everyone cleans up the stock crank unless you intend to add cubes. The short block would also be outfitted with new rings and upgraded bolts.