Pro Charged Z06 Help
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,166
Likes: 26
From: Odenton MD
Wow!...great to know headers and exhaust let's the horses out!!! WGT do you also have full exaust? Do you still have the aftermarket CAM in it?
From what I've heard the stock fuel system can safely support around that 575RWHP number. I know that PIO had A&A make a few changes and instantly the car went up 30rwhp.
It sounds like the think is going to be a complete beast! Please keep us all updated. I feel sorry for the clutch and half-shafts as they are going to feel what "real" hp feels like!
As far as tires go I've been asking the same questions as even with my measely 576rwhp 1st and 2nd are useless at anywhere near full throttle. I think WGT uses Hoosier A6(autocross compound) and is happy. If its a car not driven much(mileage wise) that may be the only way to go as those guys won't last too long. Fun in the rain though...lol.
Also sounds like the Nitto INVO's may be a little better than the goodyears. I hear they are a 1/2" taller which for our big hp cars would be a bad thing. May affect speedo accuracy though.
Cheers,
Chad
From what I've heard the stock fuel system can safely support around that 575RWHP number. I know that PIO had A&A make a few changes and instantly the car went up 30rwhp.
It sounds like the think is going to be a complete beast! Please keep us all updated. I feel sorry for the clutch and half-shafts as they are going to feel what "real" hp feels like!
As far as tires go I've been asking the same questions as even with my measely 576rwhp 1st and 2nd are useless at anywhere near full throttle. I think WGT uses Hoosier A6(autocross compound) and is happy. If its a car not driven much(mileage wise) that may be the only way to go as those guys won't last too long. Fun in the rain though...lol.
Also sounds like the Nitto INVO's may be a little better than the goodyears. I hear they are a 1/2" taller which for our big hp cars would be a bad thing. May affect speedo accuracy though.
Cheers,
Chad
Yes I still have an aftermarket cam in my setup. I have Kooks headers too, but stock exhaust.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,359
Likes: 6
From: Los Alamitos California
St. Jude Donor '09
I personally use a wideband air/fuel meter, a knock indicator, electronic boost controller, boost gauge, egt, and audible/visual alarm indicators for all gauges, including other non forced induction specific guages (oil temp & pressure, water temp) on my turbocharged car (my vette only has 270 miles on it). It's very cheap insurance.
The first thing I'd want from my tuner is a dyno graph showing hp, tq, and more importantly air/fuel levels. As others have said it was almost certainly the tune.
Even though you're building the block, you can still blow it up with a bad tune, especially if you're going to utilize the stock compression ratio. Personally, if was building the block I'd go with a lower compression ratio than stock to allow for more boost. Depending on the amount of boost, I'd want to keep the air/fuel ratios around 12:1 or maybe 12.5:1. I'd also look into water/meth/etc injection to insure even more safety and effectively upgrade your fuel octane economically. Just additional insurance, and that's a fairly expensive toy, especially after an engine rebuild.
Good luck, and I'd like to see your results. I think I'll be looking at a turbo or s/c setup down the road so I "lurk" this forum often.
San
The first thing I'd want from my tuner is a dyno graph showing hp, tq, and more importantly air/fuel levels. As others have said it was almost certainly the tune.
Even though you're building the block, you can still blow it up with a bad tune, especially if you're going to utilize the stock compression ratio. Personally, if was building the block I'd go with a lower compression ratio than stock to allow for more boost. Depending on the amount of boost, I'd want to keep the air/fuel ratios around 12:1 or maybe 12.5:1. I'd also look into water/meth/etc injection to insure even more safety and effectively upgrade your fuel octane economically. Just additional insurance, and that's a fairly expensive toy, especially after an engine rebuild.
Good luck, and I'd like to see your results. I think I'll be looking at a turbo or s/c setup down the road so I "lurk" this forum often.
San
Racer
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 465
Likes: 0
From: Conroe TX
I didn't see this posted yet. Don't forget that the factory head bolts on the LS2/7 are torque to yield. There is a good possibilty that the car actually stretched the head bolts, leading to the blown head gasket. As far as the motor issue goes, I tend to agree with everyone else. The LS7 has more compression than the LS2 meaning that there must be a significant lowering of your timing. Especially under WOT. My car makes over 700 with 12psi and we don't have problems using 93 octane fuel. However I'm not running crazy amounts of timing. With the higher comp. motor I would imagine timing would need to be in the neighborhood of 16*at WOT. Maybe less? Perry would probably be able to tell you a good number to start at. Good luck
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,166
Likes: 26
From: Odenton MD
I didn't see this posted yet. Don't forget that the factory head bolts on the LS2/7 are torque to yield. There is a good possibilty that the car actually stretched the head bolts, leading to the blown head gasket. As far as the motor issue goes, I tend to agree with everyone else. The LS7 has more compression than the LS2 meaning that there must be a significant lowering of your timing. Especially under WOT. My car makes over 700 with 12psi and we don't have problems using 93 octane fuel. However I'm not running crazy amounts of timing. With the higher comp. motor I would imagine timing would need to be in the neighborhood of 16*at WOT. Maybe less? Perry would probably be able to tell you a good number to start at. Good luck
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
I will post results soon as I have them.
It won't hurt to check it. Thanks.
Former Vendor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,239
Likes: 1
I personally use a wideband air/fuel meter, a knock indicator, electronic boost controller, boost gauge, egt, and audible/visual alarm indicators for all gauges, including other non forced induction specific guages (oil temp & pressure, water temp) on my turbocharged car (my vette only has 270 miles on it). It's very cheap insurance.
The first thing I'd want from my tuner is a dyno graph showing hp, tq, and more importantly air/fuel levels. As others have said it was almost certainly the tune.
Even though you're building the block, you can still blow it up with a bad tune, especially if you're going to utilize the stock compression ratio. Personally, if was building the block I'd go with a lower compression ratio than stock to allow for more boost. Depending on the amount of boost, I'd want to keep the air/fuel ratios around 12:1 or maybe 12.5:1. I'd also look into water/meth/etc injection to insure even more safety and effectively upgrade your fuel octane economically. Just additional insurance, and that's a fairly expensive toy, especially after an engine rebuild.
Good luck, and I'd like to see your results. I think I'll be looking at a turbo or s/c setup down the road so I "lurk" this forum often.
San
The first thing I'd want from my tuner is a dyno graph showing hp, tq, and more importantly air/fuel levels. As others have said it was almost certainly the tune.
Even though you're building the block, you can still blow it up with a bad tune, especially if you're going to utilize the stock compression ratio. Personally, if was building the block I'd go with a lower compression ratio than stock to allow for more boost. Depending on the amount of boost, I'd want to keep the air/fuel ratios around 12:1 or maybe 12.5:1. I'd also look into water/meth/etc injection to insure even more safety and effectively upgrade your fuel octane economically. Just additional insurance, and that's a fairly expensive toy, especially after an engine rebuild.
Good luck, and I'd like to see your results. I think I'll be looking at a turbo or s/c setup down the road so I "lurk" this forum often.
San
San, I'd shoot for a little of a richer tune. We shoot for an air/fuel ratio of 11.5/1 to be safe. Bob
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 376
Likes: 0
From: www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com info@alcoholinjectionsystems.com Phone: 1. 801. 447. 2559
The two biggest reasons for engine failure with supercharged and turbocharged engines - Poor tuning and lack of octane.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,359
Likes: 6
From: Los Alamitos California
St. Jude Donor '09
San
Former Vendor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,239
Likes: 1
We still run 11.5/1 to be safe. With the meth we can add more timing, which makes a big gain in horsepower. Bob
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 376
Likes: 0
From: www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com info@alcoholinjectionsystems.com Phone: 1. 801. 447. 2559
If the water methanol injection system is installed and tuned correctly, your ECU will automatically reduce ignition timing and add fuel in the event the air temps rise as a result of the water alcohol injection system running out of fluid or failing.
How do we do this?
It's simple. On the Corvettes the IAT (intake air temperature) sensor is located in the mass air meter. Since we do not want to spray the water methanol mixture through the mass air meter, injection will have to take place just after it. By injecting after the IAT sensor the ECU is not able to recognize the air temperature drop from the water methanol injection.
By relocating the IAT sensor in the manifold the ECU can now recognize the drop in air temps allowing us to tune off of it. That way if air inlet temps rise due to the water methanol injection running out of fluid or system failure, we can tune the ECU to significantly reduce ignition timing and add fuel to protect the motor. This can only be done if the IAT sensor is located after the water methanol injection. Not before it.
How do we do this?
It's simple. On the Corvettes the IAT (intake air temperature) sensor is located in the mass air meter. Since we do not want to spray the water methanol mixture through the mass air meter, injection will have to take place just after it. By injecting after the IAT sensor the ECU is not able to recognize the air temperature drop from the water methanol injection.
By relocating the IAT sensor in the manifold the ECU can now recognize the drop in air temps allowing us to tune off of it. That way if air inlet temps rise due to the water methanol injection running out of fluid or system failure, we can tune the ECU to significantly reduce ignition timing and add fuel to protect the motor. This can only be done if the IAT sensor is located after the water methanol injection. Not before it.
Last edited by AIS; Oct 28, 2007 at 12:04 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,166
Likes: 26
From: Odenton MD
If the water methanol injection system is installed and tuned correctly, your ECU will automatically reduce ignition timing and add fuel in the event the air temps rise as a result of the water alcohol injection system running out of fluid or failing.
How do we do this?
It's simple. On the Corvettes the IAT (intake air temperature) sensor is located in the mass air meter. Since we do not want to spray the water methanol mixture through the mass air meter, injection will have to take place just after it. By injecting after the IAT sensor the ECU is not able to recognize the air temperature drop from the water methanol injection.
By relocating the IAT sensor in the manifold the ECU can now recognize the drop in air temps allowing us to tune off of it. That way if air inlet temps rise due to the water methanol injection running out of fluid or system failure, we can tune the ECU to significantly reduce ignition timing and add fuel to protect the motor. This can only be done if the IAT sensor is located after the water methanol injection. Not before it.
How do we do this?
It's simple. On the Corvettes the IAT (intake air temperature) sensor is located in the mass air meter. Since we do not want to spray the water methanol mixture through the mass air meter, injection will have to take place just after it. By injecting after the IAT sensor the ECU is not able to recognize the air temperature drop from the water methanol injection.
By relocating the IAT sensor in the manifold the ECU can now recognize the drop in air temps allowing us to tune off of it. That way if air inlet temps rise due to the water methanol injection running out of fluid or system failure, we can tune the ECU to significantly reduce ignition timing and add fuel to protect the motor. This can only be done if the IAT sensor is located after the water methanol injection. Not before it.
What a great post. I predict that some day people are going to dump front mount intercoolers and just use meth as an intercooler. In fact, i am certain that meth injection provides much better cooling than a front mount intercooler. Whay would i get rid of the front moount intercooler? Well it blocks air flow to the radiator and makes is difficult to road race with AND it adds weight to the front of the car.
BTW, where exactly would you put the IAT sensor in the manifold? Do you have a picture of this setup?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,166
Likes: 26
From: Odenton MD
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 376
Likes: 0
From: www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com info@alcoholinjectionsystems.com Phone: 1. 801. 447. 2559
What a great post. I predict that some day people are going to dump front mount intercoolers and just use meth as an intercooler. In fact, i am certain that meth injection provides much better cooling than a front mount intercooler. Whay would i get rid of the front moount intercooler? Well it blocks air flow to the radiator and makes is difficult to road race with AND it adds weight to the front of the car.
BTW, where exactly would you put the IAT sensor in the manifold? Do you have a picture of this setup?
BTW, where exactly would you put the IAT sensor in the manifold? Do you have a picture of this setup?
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,347
Likes: 25
From: Apache Junction AZ
I didn't see this posted yet. Don't forget that the factory head bolts on the LS2/7 are torque to yield. There is a good possibilty that the car actually stretched the head bolts, leading to the blown head gasket. As far as the motor issue goes, I tend to agree with everyone else. The LS7 has more compression than the LS2 meaning that there must be a significant lowering of your timing. Especially under WOT. My car makes over 700 with 12psi and we don't have problems using 93 octane fuel. However I'm not running crazy amounts of timing. With the higher comp. motor I would imagine timing would need to be in the neighborhood of 16*at WOT. Maybe less? Perry would probably be able to tell you a good number to start at. Good luck
BJK
Last edited by 07MontRedcp; Oct 31, 2007 at 03:47 PM.