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I plan to pickup my 07 A6 this weekend and gonna waste no time modding. gonna purchase A&A vortech kit, kooks lt 1 7/8", fast 90 with Revextreme billet tb, cam, straight pipe exhaust with dumps. Whats safe amount of boost without having to reinforce the internals/not blow the motor? My last car was a modded srt4 so im using to seeing 18+ psi lol. I also plan to purchase a electric boost/vac. and wide band gauges to keep safe monitoring.
I dont plan to make it a track queen, im gonna see about it getting tuned for more highway fun, since driving to school and back is about 98miles in one night.
The guy who never uses it can keep it together. They guy who doesnt care has no worries. Fit either of those descriptions? This isnt srt4 land, your going to be making more power than you can put down even with conservative boost that will keep your car together. Have you called any reputable tuners such as A&A and discussed your plans/parts/goals?
The guy who never uses it can keep it together. They guy who doesnt care has no worries. Fit either of those descriptions? This isnt srt4 land, your going to be making more power than you can put down even with conservative boost that will keep your car together. Have you called any reputable tuners such as A&A and discussed your plans/parts/goals?
Yeah, he's right. I have a WRX that makes 22+ lbs of boost on a regular basis (stock block), but it's a low compression motor, not a high-compression motor. Unless you build a motor specifically for FI and lower the compression, I'd stay conservative with the boost. These motors aren't forged and without a spot-on tune you could be looking at serious/catastrophic damage. I'm still on the fence as to whether I want to go FI or just go all motor. I see plenty of threads where the lower gears are almost a joke with FI. I went with the base gears (same as the Z06) for just this reason. If you can't put the power to the ground, what good is it? I'm also concerned about adding heat under the hood. The Corvette already runs a bit hot IMHO.
I know high compression motors and boost dont go hand in hand to well. Would i just be better off getting a set of heads instead of a blower setup? Im mainly pushing to get around that 550/575 whp, if i could go all motor that be nice, but just figure itd be easier with adding boost.
I know high compression motors and boost dont go hand in hand to well. Would i just be better off getting a set of heads instead of a blower setup? Im mainly pushing to get around that 550/575 whp, if i could go all motor that be nice, but just figure itd be easier with adding boost.
I think you're looking at "adding boost" from a perspective that isn't quite applicable here. You can add boost, but it's a mere fraction of what you're used to. The counterpoint argument is that with high compression you don't need to boost as much. It really comes down to what you want to do with the car. If you're looking for short bursts of speed, FI is probably fine. If you're looking at open tracking the car, I would probably lean towards all motor.
I spoke with a vendor in Florida that has installed a few APS TT kits and he had to de-tune several customer's rides that track their car because they were spinning too much out of the corners. Bear in mind he was pulling ~100hp out of the tunes. If you can't get the power to the ground, who cares how much you made on the dyno?
I met up with some local Corvettes yesterday and some of the heavily modded ones just made lots of noise and spun the tires under power/boost. I'm totally stock and never had a problem keeping up. We weren't racing, so don't read more into this than I posted.
Bottom line - if you're installing a Vortech system, don't go much past 7-8 psi if you want the motor and tranny to stay in one piece over the long haul. I have the A&A kit on my 2006 A6, but I didn't add headers. I have a CORSA Touring exhaust on it. My numbers were about 460 rwhp & torque, but that was at 91 degrees and 95% humidity on the stand. Plus, Doug Rippie doesn't put a big fan in front of the car to artificially boost the numbers. Realistically, given the weather, my car is about 480-500 on both numbers. Mine is set at 7 psi. With yours, adding headers will put you a little over 500 rwhp/tq. If you're thinking you're going to get more than that, the only way to do it is to either start messing with engine internals or go crazy on the boost. The first is quite expensive, and the second guarantees a loud "boom" in short order.
Be realistic - you cannot get much more than about 525 or so and still be safe.
I know high compression motors and boost dont go hand in hand to well. Would i just be better off getting a set of heads instead of a blower setup? Im mainly pushing to get around that 550/575 whp, if i could go all motor that be nice, but just figure itd be easier with adding boost.
It would be very tough to hit 550 all motor. I did heads/cam etc and was at 463. I added aprocharger and hit 571rwhp with barely 5 pounds of boost. I am changing the pulley this week to get it up to 630rwhp(probably 7-8psi??) I did have extensive tuning and a two bar map sensor tuning done. Internals/bottom end will still be stock until next year. Several forum members have similar combos with no problems. I've learned from experience that most people telling you not to do it....have not done it. most people try to give conservative advice. All I can say is the Supercharger was one of the best things I ever spent money on
There are many more factors to consider beyond boost. I would consider tq/hp as your limiting factors of your drive train not boost. You can start off at 6 psi with stock heads/cam/exhaust. Making a change to any or all three could product more power and less boost because the engine is more efficient at flowing air. Likewise, a larger head unit will flow more air at lower temperatures and produce more power.
Im trying to keep my car/build under 50k. Im pickin my car up for 39k(about 42k after uncle sam bends me over). Priced out i was finding kooks lt for 1k shipped, fast 90 w/tb for 1k(local shop has fast 90 for 650 and makes own tb may be cheaper), saw custom cam setups going for 2k, A&A's vortech kit for 5500, brings me to 9500, so 52k without installing or tuning.
550 was a throw out number, if i could get 500/500 id be happy. My uncles made a comment to ordering a new Z06, so im gonna want something to keep up with him lol.
You can certainly get 550-600RWHP with the A6 and one of Andy's kits - SAFELY. I've got an A&A kit with Kooks 1-7/8 headers & no cats, ported TB, small blower cam & valvetrain. I also installed the
8-rib belt set-up and oversized balancer to overdrive the S/C. This combo with a 3.6 blower pulley makes 590RWHP. That is also with a conservative tune and very safe 11.5 A/F ratio. As long as you don't push the car under WOT constantly the A6 will hold up just fine as will the motor.
Like i said, which i don't think most understood, im not looking to make this a weekend track goer. maybe a few times a year. I would just love to have nice power on tap for idiots i see, and to keep up(45miles one way to school, i come across all sorts of modded cars) with my uncle. knowing him he wont hesitate to start modding his car too.
all i really asked in 1st post is what is safe boost lvl, so i know whether or not to upgrade a pulley or not. And i know asking the installers is better, but i keep in mind most shops are out to make top dollar, and me being a vette newbie im sure id be easy pickings.
And i know asking the installers is better, but i keep in mind most shops are out to make top dollar, and me being a vette newbie im sure id be easy pickings.
Again, this is a little different than what your used to dealing with before. The outfits mentioned will not steer you wrong nor sell you something extra to make a buck. The will try and determine what your goals are, your willingness to risk carnage, how much you want to spend and give you sound advice. They are making plenty as it is and dont make any more installing (or selling) one pulley instead of another.
Most folks (and shops) will try and stay between 5 and 7 on the boost with a stock internals. Some will push the envelope and that goes back to your willingness to risk carnage. Say you go with A&A system. Depending on cam and specific setup even with a lower and safer boost number you can be getting up toward the mid 500s. Your talking about serious traction issues till after you get above legal speed limits. There will be very few cars on the road that will be able to stay beside you. Despite that you will not be the fastest car on the road, especially without serious work on the traction end which you say you do not want to do.
I strongly urge you to call Andy if your going with his goodies. He will talk to you personally. He will not try and sell you extra BS and can give you very specific numbers on the output with different combos and boost levels. The lowest numbers are going to be overkill, the bigger ones will be more overkill. Thats the beauty of FI on a vette.
Traction wise im getting black z06 rep. rims with the 19x11 rear, and gonna slap some kdw2s on them. My first car was a builtup foxbody(everything but a blower) that was as heavy as a crx, i know what traction issues ill be lookin at.
Ive already pmed Andy about the blower kit, but im also going to RevExtreme for the rest of the parts to have them install/tune. Waiting on them to return the pm so. Gonna see what they say on the build.