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I'm looking for the current best approach to install an MSD BAP. I have the instrustions: http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/2350_frm23726.pdf but where exactly do all the wires need to be run to. Do you need to run wires all the way back to the pump itself? The MSD comes with a relay and I don't hear anyone talking about a relay on the KB BAP? I'm looking into getting a Racetronix harness to make it cleaner (and even more power to the pump?) but I'm on the fence. How much wiring work does it save? I had the Racetronix pump and harness in my blown C5 (with no BAP) and the quality was outstanding.
Edit: I found this thread on a C5 Racetronix BAP install: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1724064 It places the unit in the drivers rear wheel well which is fine but I'd have to run a vacuum line all the way back to the manifold. Anyone see any problem with that?
Last edited by 5 Liter Eater; Mar 22, 2008 at 10:05 PM.
This is how I see it done most often. I saw this post: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...54&postcount=5 which also talks about the gray wire. So tap into the gray wire at the fuse block into the relay, the long red and black wires go all the way back to the fuel pump where the stock wires get cut off and replaced with these right? Red from the battery post to the relay, black to ground from both MSD box and relay, yellow fusable wire from MSD to relay. Right?
Originally Posted by HyeSpeeder
hello
You can mount it next to the fuse box and just tap into the gray wire for the fuel pump
So the msd box gets the power from the battery post or the fuse box post and ground to any where on the chassis .
then the red and black hookup to the fuel pump wire the red goes to the gray wire and then the black for the ground
run the vacuum /boost line to the back of the intake manifold
make sure u turn the **** down on the msd box so it does not burn the pump.
Last edited by 5 Liter Eater; Mar 23, 2008 at 09:44 AM.
Moving the BAP to the rear using the RX harness reduces heat and takes the increased load off of the factory wiring. The BAP will not have to work as hard to overcome factory wiring losses. Voltage drop on the factory circuit will be eliminated. Diagnosis / removal is plug and play. In some cases the gains achieved with the harness alone are enough to tip the balance in your favor.
Yea but the bap being powered by the thin gray wire is not good at all not enough juice.
But if the bap is up front it can push alot of juice threw the gray wire.
Voltage goes up so it does not need to be as thick of a wire
How do you figure that? This is basic ohms law here folks.
If the voltage goes up the pump's current demand goes up.
Power loss is I^2R. The resistance of the factory wiring is fixed. Either way your power loss across the factory wiring is going to be there. You must also factor in the inefficiency of the BAP which adds to the extra power required on the feed circuit.
Some people confuse AC power transmission and transformer buck and boost applications used by the utility companies with automotive electrical, DC circuits and loads. They are two very different things.
Thanks for that, it gave me some insight. So the gray wire everyone talks about is actually the hot wire to the pump from the factory relay. So it's essentially like taking power directly from the battery, and it's already on a relay. So you splice the yellow wire from the BAP into that gray wire (or cut the gray wire), ground the black wire from the BAP, and run the long red and black wires back to the pump, cut the old wires from the fuel pump connector and solder in the BAP wires.
Done and done. There is really nothing left of the stock fuel pump wiring harness except the fuel sender wires. The pump is getting voltage and ground straight from the MSD BAP.
Last edited by 5 Liter Eater; Apr 9, 2008 at 12:30 AM.