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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 06:19 AM
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Hi to all
I am trying to decide between a maggie or a SC. It is a LS2 with all the bolt ons. I don't drag the car and need a solid street machine, that is fast by maintains good street manners. I have been reading all that I can find on this subject and still can't make up my mind. I will do the install my self during the "off season" ( live in CT). With that said I would like a unit that is relative quiet and is self contained (don't want to tap into oil pan). The car needs to run cool in the summer and don't want to fight the belt aliment battle. So A&A or ECS or who to get the maggie from.
Thanks for your input
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 08:24 AM
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Had the maggie. Loved it for a while, but wanted more. If you're one of those guys that doesn't like getting beaten, don't get a Maggie. They fall off up top where you need it most. I dyno'd 520rwhp and then got beaten by a stock C6Z06 with catbacks only. Maggies have great low end torque, and awesome looks. Reliability is excellent. As you may know, Magnuson is made by Eaton, except Magnuson makes them vehicle specific. I have had an Eaton (TRD) blower on my Toyota truck for over 100k with no issues. That's reliability!

I now have an A&A Vortech and love it. The low end torque is still awesome and if you want a flatter torque curve to match the Maggie, you can just put a restrictor plate in. Andy's price won't be beat. his intercooler is the best in the industry. The rest of the product is top notch. His customer service is beyond comprehension.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 08:27 AM
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Just in case you have read my belt alignment thread, my main problem was the power steering pulley as far as alignment goes and I'm still not sure my issue isn't from turning the blower at 75krpm. I have the largest Vortech system Andy offers and his guess is that it takes 100hp just to drive the thing at WOT in the top of the RPM band. That's a heck of a lot of stress on a belt.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 08:29 AM
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A&A or ECS, don't get a roots style like the Maggi..........IMHO


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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 11:19 AM
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New A&A Vortec Supercharger for $4500

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2155282
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by setxws6
A&A or ECS, don't get a roots style like the Maggi..........IMHO


depends on what you're going to do and your preferences I guess, for driving around town having fun, I like the maggie, I think they're a ton of fun. You can lug it along and have power anywhere down low.
I had a procharger on a previous LS1 (non vette) and did not care for it at all. This time I'm going back to turbo, we'll see if I like that better, I think I will.

In a 1/4 I have no doubt my procharged car was quicker than the same car with a maggie I rode in, but for pure fun I'd have traded in a hearbeat.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 11:32 AM
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I think it all depends on what you want. If you want high end get the a Paxton or Vortec from ECS or Andy if you want low end grunt get the rmaggie. I am very happy with my paxton setup.

I make 510 RWHP at somewhere around 9 psi (my guage is messed up and I have been to lazy to send it back to autometer or whomever so it wavers fairly badly.)

With the stock pulley I made about 10 more rwhp up top and a bit more through the midrange (smaller pulley but had a restrictor plate) however after my installers had a long conversation with Paxton they agreed that the origional pulley was border line spinning the blower to fast so we decided to go slightly bigger.


Good luck with your decision.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 11:58 AM
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Again, if you like low end grunt, you can put a restrictor plate to flatten out the torque curve. More boost down low and less up top.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06
Again, if you like low end grunt, you can put a restrictor plate to flatten out the torque curve. More boost down low and less up top.
I won't speak for bigger blowers but on my Novi 1200 there was very little difference I would way 5-10 rwhp/rwtq with the restrictor plate. And for my blower at least the rist of over spinning wasn't worth it.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 05:38 AM
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I have read about over heating and some mods that were done to resolve this problem ( big Bols or something like that ) Have the boys at A&A and ECS fixed this issue in their set ups? Does any one have any video of their set up running? The next question would be which head unit to get. I will be using it on the street 99% of the time. Should I get anything else like radiator or 8 rib pulley system? How about the alky injection for street use?

Thanks again
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 06:00 AM
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One more question, I want to do the install myself. I will need to get it tuned but will have to drive it some were after the install. Anyone that DIY what did you do about this?.

Thanks
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 10:02 AM
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Like Blown Blue stated earlier get a upsized head unit, for minimal upcharge, over drive it, then restrict it back down... The torque is CRAZY, and the h.p. potential of this setup is FAR superior... as far as ALKY on the street???... It's the ONLY way to go!!!!!!!!! 1 gallon of 100% Methanol (i use V.P.Fuels M3) will last per one tank of gas, so you just fill your alky res, every time you fill with gas, this still leaves about 1/2 gallon in reserve at all times... Alky gives you ~ 110-113 octane when you also run 93pump in the regular fuel system... And IAT's are lower than ambient even down here in Texas heat... on a 105* day I saw 88* IAT's... usually IAT's in the 60-70's on avg temp days... you're asking ALL the right questions... Right now Andy at A&A has the best kit on the market, If you go with his $5200 kit, then upsize the head unit, add alky, blower cam, headers. (you can do it in stages of course, but do the alky when you do the S/C) You will have an AWESOME package... good luck with your build... keep us posted... Man I wish someone would have told me this stuff back in '05, it would have saved me sooooooooooooooo much money and hassle...
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by sea six
I have read about over heating and some mods that were done to resolve this problem ( big Bols or something like that ) Have the boys at A&A and ECS fixed this issue in their set ups? Does any one have any video of their set up running? The next question would be which head unit to get. I will be using it on the street 99% of the time. Should I get anything else like radiator or 8 rib pulley system? How about the alky injection for street use?

Thanks again
Hi Rod,
You have asked three questions (I think).

OVERHEATING
Andy (A&A) recently re-engineered his system to maximize the space between the radiator and intercooler to increase cooling. Additionally, Andy added his Ram-Air Intercooler (which he invented) to lower IAT (Intake Air Temp). They are the only ones with this feature. Andy's system with the Ram-Air Intercooler will keep temps lower better than any other system available.

Here is a quote from Andy:
"I had a car on the dyno on Friday. My dyno read 99* and my IATs were 100* with the car running at about 1500 RPM. (it was an unusually hot day for our area). I ran it like this for about a minute to let the IATs stabilize. I did a full 6600 RPM run and my peak IAT was 117*. I did this 3 times (after letting the car cool) and 117* was the highest I saw. Everyone in the shop was impressed! That's with high velocity fans directed at the scoop, but that's NOWHERE NEAR the amount of air that the scoop will grab at speed.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...040&highlight=

WHICH HEAD UNIT TO GET
How much HP you want? If you get the smallest head unit (S-Trim) you will have about 600rwhp at about 6psi. If you want more power later, you could change to a different pulley for more boost pressure. At the lower boost pressures (6-8 psi) you'll be OK with the 6-rib setup.

ALKY INJECTION
Alky is great for high-hp applications. For most people, (under 700rwhp depending on other mods and tune ) it's not necessary. Keep in mind, if you tune your car for Alky, you'll always have to run it on Alky. To me this is a disadvantage. I have a fully modded LS7 (750rwhp) and no Alky; It runs on straight pump gas and was tuned using 91 octane (I use 93 octane here in Texas).

I'm sure others more knowledgeable than I will chime in here. Best of Luck!

Last edited by Rainmaker; Oct 17, 2008 at 11:06 AM.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 12:15 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by sea six
Hi to all
I am trying to decide between a maggie or a SC. It is a LS2 with all the bolt ons. I don't drag the car and need a solid street machine, that is fast by maintains good street manners. I have been reading all that I can find on this subject and still can't make up my mind. I will do the install my self during the "off season" ( live in CT). With that said I would like a unit that is relative quiet and is self contained (don't want to tap into oil pan). The car needs to run cool in the summer and don't want to fight the belt aliment battle. So A&A or ECS or who to get the maggie from.
Thanks for your input
The maggie is a SC.

If you want a flat torque curve, power all the way through your RPM band, and you don't mind having to buy a new hood, get the maggie. You're not going to get the same results with a centri.

If you want big numbers, or you simply don't want to have to change the hood, then A&A and ECS are the way to go.

Very simple differences between the two. Maggie is a "positive displacement" blower, and it keeps full boost all the way through the RPM band. A&A & ECS use a "centrifugal" blower, which ramps boost up at a constant rate as you rev the motor (ie. 5psi at 3k rpm, 10psi at 6k rpm).

With the maggie, the hand of god comes down and pushes you back in your seat immediately.

With the others, the hand of god comes down and starts pushing softly, and keeps on pushing till you poop yourself.

Both are awesome options. Definitely no wrong decision. Just depends on what you want.

Search out PowerLabs install thread to get an idea oh what is involved in installing a centrifugal. A maggie is a little easier, but ends up costing more (have to buy and paint a hood). Both require you pin the crank, which isn't your normal bolt-on type of work.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr.Big
Like Blown Blue stated earlier get a upsized head unit, for minimal upcharge, over drive it, then restrict it back down... The torque is CRAZY, and the h.p. potential of this setup is FAR superior... as far as ALKY on the street???... It's the ONLY way to go!!!!!!!!! 1 gallon of 100% Methanol (i use V.P.Fuels M3) will last per one tank of gas, so you just fill your alky res, every time you fill with gas, this still leaves about 1/2 gallon in reserve at all times... Alky gives you ~ 110-113 octane when you also run 93pump in the regular fuel system... And IAT's are lower than ambient even down here in Texas heat... on a 105* day I saw 88* IAT's... usually IAT's in the 60-70's on avg temp days... you're asking ALL the right questions... Right now Andy at A&A has the best kit on the market, If you go with his $5200 kit, then upsize the head unit, add alky, blower cam, headers. (you can do it in stages of course, but do the alky when you do the S/C) You will have an AWESOME package... good luck with your build... keep us posted... Man I wish someone would have told me this stuff back in '05, it would have saved me sooooooooooooooo much money and hassle...
He guys great feed back. Next question is when you up size the head unit what size / model are you talking about? Are most units available in the self contained units. Is there a disadvantage to using this type. Also trying to keeping wifey happy is there a big difference in the SQ (super quiet units) over the rest? How about the start up will I have to get a caned tune to get it to a tuner?

I am looking for good low end grunt (you know monster torque) zero to 120 kind of stuff. Not a real track kind of guy. I have 4:10 gears so I would think that they will help (right?)

Rod
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by sea six
He guys great feed back. Next question is when you up size the head unit what size / model are you talking about? Are most units available in the self contained units. Is there a disadvantage to using this type. Also trying to keeping wifey happy is there a big difference in the SQ (super quiet units) over the rest? How about the start up will I have to get a caned tune to get it to a tuner?

I am looking for good low end grunt (you know monster torque) zero to 120 kind of stuff. Not a real track kind of guy. I have 4:10 gears so I would think that they will help (right?)

Rod

Paxton, Procharger and Vortech all offer self-lubricated head units now. The only real disadvantage to a self-lubed blower that I know of is you have to change the oil once in awhile. however, the insall is easier and you never have to worry about the fact that your oil pan has a permanant hole drilled in it if you decide to remove/change your setup.

I'm personally going self-lubed (ECS Paxton SL1500). I just like the simplicity of it.

As far as noise I can only speak for the paxton (my GF has it on her car). It's quiet as blowers go. There's some "whoosh" from the intake pipe, but there's no real tradtional "whine" from the blower gears themselves.

As far as the crazy low end you're looking for, the positive displacement blowers would BEST satisfy that, but they will also require a new hood, suffer from higher IATs and flatten out on the top end of the range.

On top of that, 4.10 gears and a roots or screw blower are going to make traction completely impossible....

Personally, I think the ECS setup is a nice mix. It makes torque lower in the rev range than the other centrifugals but doesn't hit as hard as the roots/screw blowers. That's why I chose it.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by JSB LS3
Paxton, Procharger and Vortech all offer self-lubricated head units now. The only real disadvantage to a self-lubed blower that I know of is you have to change the oil once in awhile. however, the insall is easier and you never have to worry about the fact that your oil pan has a permanant hole drilled in it if you decide to remove/change your setup.

I'm personally going self-lubed (ECS Paxton SL1500). I just like the simplicity of it.

As far as noise I can only speak for the paxton (my GF has it on her car). It's quiet as blowers go. There's some "whoosh" from the intake pipe, but there's no real tradtional "whine" from the blower gears themselves.

As far as the crazy low end you're looking for, the positive displacement blowers would BEST satisfy that, but they will also require a new hood, suffer from higher IATs and flatten out on the top end of the range.

On top of that, 4.10 gears and a roots or screw blower are going to make traction completely impossible....

Personally, I think the ECS setup is a nice mix. It makes torque lower in the rev range than the other centrifugals but doesn't hit as hard as the roots/screw blowers. That's why I chose it.
Thanks for your input. Are you doing the install? It's a long winter and I have to take something apart each "off season" The only problem is getting it tuned after I get it running. I guess that I can trailer it but that would be a real Pain in the a$$.

Thanks
Rod
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 06:08 PM
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Low end grunt is going to be the maggie. 4.11's are a bit aggressive for any blower, but in the end it all just depends on what you want. Gears are cheap, so I would do the blower, drive it, and if it's too hard to keep traction then just swap them out.

The ECS set-up would be a better centrifugal option for you if that's what you decide to go with. The restrictor plate is already done for you.

On the tune, ECS or Andy would include a base tune (mail order) for you. That will be enough to get you to the tuner safely, just don't get all into it on the way there. Same with the Maggie, depending on where you buy it.

Just to give the other side of the argument, I would actually recommend the engine oiled unit if you go with a centrifugal. Self contained is fine, but the added maintenance is a pain.

As for the up-sizing, the ECS shouldn't need to be up-sized. It already has a bigger head unit that the P1 Procharger or S-trim Vortech. If you go with Andy's kit, the up-sized unit would be the T-trim.

As far as the SQ issue, all of the newer blowers you're looking at are already quiet. You will hear a little bit when you're getting into it, and you'll also hear the BOV when you shift or let off the gas, but other than that the centri's are pretty quiet. The Maggie has a very distinctive whine when you step on it, but it's quiet at idle.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 06:35 PM
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I've got a Maggie with 3.15's ,2.8"pulley,9 lbs of boost a 2800 stall,,,,,,,,,it hauls ***!!!

They are all good,,I just like the I got for now!
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 06:40 PM
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[QUOTE=BLOWNBLUEZ06;1567487767]Had the maggie. Loved it for a while, but wanted more. If you're one of those guys that doesn't like getting beaten, don't get a Maggie. They fall off up top where you need it most. I dyno'd 520rwhp and then got beaten by a stock C6Z06 with catbacks only.

I don't quite understand that statement......I've been outrunning stock C6 ZO6s since I dynod 480 rwhp, they're NO problem now. At the Texas Mile (which is a great test for top end power) I'm 10 mph faster then a stock C6 ZO6 and run very similar mph to any comparably powered centri car. My suggestion to the OP is to try and drive both before making your decision. I've owned a centrifugal car in the past and I've been very happy with my Magnuson. No one can tell you which is right for you.
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