I posted a thread stating that I was considering a dry nitrous system. I received several arguments that wet is better. I also was told that Nitrous Express has a good kit. I decided to call the NX directly and solve the debate. Not only were they very helpful but also managed to change my mind to a wet kit. They suggested the following part with a window switch:
http://www.shopatron.com/product/par...20919-10/300.0

My question to everybody is is this the right choice and does anyone have experience with this kit. I am only looking for 100hp increase.

Nitrous express also told me that I would not need a tune if I run 93 octane which I do and NGK plugs two steps colder than stock.

Thoughts?

 

Wet vs Dry - you can beat it into the ground forever. It isn't going to matter on your 100 shot.

Call nitro daves nitrous outlet (google him). He is an NX dealer and will hook you up with his plate system.

 

WOW... you got the new sales person on this call... You MUST get the car tuned or you WILL have issues... this person obviously wants to make the larger price sale... As long as you stay under 250hp dry IS the way to go... with that said again, this person you got on the phone doesn't have a clue...
"Nitrous express also told me that I would not need a tune"... "Thoughts"...
my thoughts... DO NOT take this persons advice... Give Taylor a ring at www.dallasperformance.com they carry NX and NANO, and he'll sell wet or dry, but inform you of the truth about the tune...

 

Big's and I are almost always 100% - but I have to disagree with him on this one - With a WET 100 shot and a cooler series burning plug you can get away without a tune.

However, if it were a dry shot, I'd say YES, YOU MUST get a tune - even at only a 100 shot.

Of course, it's most prudent to get a tune either way - but not "necessary" with a dry shot. Just make sure you don't bump your timing up with ANY programmer or tool!!!

As we've all said - the wet vs. dry argument has been beat to death - always with similar results: half say wet half say dry.

You made the right choice.

 

I've flowed 200+ wet through an ls1 intake, then brought in another 350 through a fogger .3 seconds out. This was on my TA, similar motor to your vette. Even distrobution at a 550 shot. 8 second 1/4 times @ 3400 raceweight.

A tune would always be nice, you will most likely need one anyway as you increase your jet size (don't kid yourself, you'll be craving more power).

 

Thats two against one here...Three if you count the NX "New Guy". Good to get some positive feedback sometimes

 

Well of course they are going to tell you wet is better, as they have no dry kits, nor real experience with dry technology. Now with that said, they are trying to get to market a dry kit that is controlled by a mech valve but are having some sort of issue (not their design or technology).

This has always been the dry technologies down fall, very limited knowledge in how it really works. Do you realize that the date nozzle technology for the LSx platform was a stop gap measure to get nitrous kits on the LSx?

What that means is, outside of NOS, none of the N2O companies understood how the PCM and/or MAF worked, but they wanted a kit to hit the market because they like lining their pockets with $$. So, they took a single and sometimes dual nozzles from a wet Direct port kit and stuck it in the neck of the CAI and bingo a kit we can sell.

Early on, we seen that many kits were limited to 100 or 150hp shots. Why? Well it was due to using DP Nozzles that never needed to flow more than that amount per cylinder. So most companies dealt with that by introducing drill out nozzles with fancy names that would support what ever amount of spray we wanted.

Now just because it works, does that mean it's the best way to introduce nitrous into our motors, no not at all. Our intakes were designed Dry by the GM engineers with no concern of fuel IE: vapors, liquid, mist and so on. Now they encountered very low hood lines at the same time. So the new plastic intakes were designed to fit under the hood line.

What's wrong with these intakes, nothing for N/A applications. Not the best design for wet nitrous however. here's why, the plenum on the plastic intake is below the runners. where as intakes of past had the plenum about the runners with a centrally mounted carb base. the plastic also had the front entrance. what happens now because the gasoline/nitrous mix must come in the front, go up and over to get to the cylinder. each turn is a restriction and this slows the fuel mix down. When it starts slowing down the atomized fuel starts collecting into bigger and bigger droplets, until they start falling out. This is called fuel puddling and/or fuel drop out.

OK now we have a normal nitrous hic-up or commonly referred to as a backfire. A couple things conspire to make this sometimes catastrophic. The small explosion is being fed fuel in the intake itself and it ever increasing and expanding due to the puddle gas as fuel. so now we have an explosion that is expanding and no where to go easily. What happens is it goes out the side of the plastic intake and shatters it. this in turn dislodges the fuel rails. So now we have gasoline spraying all over the engine bay and many times they burn to the ground.

I only know of two dry back fires that did any damage. One was a 300rwhp shot and just blew a small hole in the intake. IMO, if it had gasoline in the intake the story would have been much, much worse. Dry is safer and will not have a destructive back fire like wet hits will. I have many, many videos of the wet destruction.

Now is this a scare tactic of some sort, no not at all. i just try and get the info out there. There are biased reason for non support of the dry technology. there are absolutely so many positives in the dry favor. I challenge anyone to give me a good reason to stay with 40 year old carburetor inspired wet technology. When we can easily tune our cars with the modern High Tech of the PCM. the GM engineers spent a lot of time engineering the modern electronics packages and we certainly can utilize their work to do a safe repeatable dry hit.


NOS, realized early on the merits of using late model electronics and started the dry technology with the 5177 Dry kit. It has advanced so far since then and is a breeze to do by anyone. the tunes with the dry are much easier out of the box over any wet kit out there. Sure the nitrous companies like us all to believe that nothing needs to be done tune wise, but most with a small amount of knowledge know this is not always the case.

So in closing, if someone wants to still run wet technology I would suggest going DP wet or use a plate kit. The point is drop the crappy dated nozzle technology on the lsx platform and at least run a wet Plate kit, much better. Along with the dry dual stage kits I am putting together, dual stage wet kits are also going together, although they will be harder to tune and will be more inconsistent with a/f curves. The dry will not require a lap top and tuner program, however the wet will.

OK enough babbling for now. This should get me flamed well enough, lol. I did not proof read, so we may need to clarify or expand on certian areas.
Robert

 

Robert,

You should probably do a little research on what I've accomplished before you spout off that I don't have any "real experience with said subject!"

I've probably installed more Nitrous kits (both dry and wet) than you've sold [on more platforms than you can imagine].

However, I digress - this is wet vs. dry is not an argument I'm interested in rehashing. I'm simply alarmed at the self-righteous all knowing attitudes of some folks!

 

I finally made a decision and purchase today. I decided to go with The Harris Speed Works Wet Plate Kit, all out accessor kit (window switch, a/f cut off, bottle heater, purge and other good stuff), their custom cup holder switch plate and I got the bottle opener. I spent a lot more money than planned and I havent told the wife but I think it will be as safe as possible and I wont need to add anything later. I will post some pictures when I complete the install. Should take a while, I plan on taking my time to do it right. Thanks for all the input from everyone.

 

First off where in the heck this cames from is beyond me? If you work for NX you should be more open with it and I would have addressed you personally. That's where my input was directed, NX as a company as a whole, not you, nor anyone personally. From the original post it comes down to this, they went to a Ford dealership asking about a Chevy, do you really think they are going to point out the merits of the dry technology?

As far as what I have or haven't sold, do you realize i was a vendor here for another company selling nitrous in years past? Also, do you know I installed/built/tuned my 1st nitrous kit on a 57 Chevy in 1976 or 77. You may not realize that I have 30 years experience with wet kits of every type, and have only in the last 5 years switched to dry as the preferred style of nitrous introduction for the EFI/LSx platform only?

Anytime you would like to debate the merits of wet vs dry and the LSx platform, I am an open book. I don't think there is any out there that has more hands on experience with the dry than myself, if there is, I don't know about them. I am currently doing a 3-stage dry and a single stage dry both on Z06s.

I really don't have an issue if someone wants to go wet on the LSx, but what kills me the most is they often do so because of misinformation concerning the dry technology. Dry has come leaps and bounds in last two years and more High tech coming.

Hopefully you will realize that anything/everything i said in my prior post was certainly not directed at you. Why you took it like a personal slam, that I am not sure of. With that said, I have no issues with you at all. from what little i know, you seem to go out of your way to help others and that was my prior "Minds Eye" about your personality. Did I offend you somewhere else? Hopefully it was just a misunderstanding and all is fine?
Robert

 

That is a great kit. Really today the plate kit as the method of wet introduction is the only good option. The nozzle kits are dated tech in my book. I think the HSW wet plate is the best on the market. If we compare the spray patterns of all the wet plates, it's easy to see why the HSW is better. some of the other plate kits are having rear cylinder lean issues, but not the HSW.

Glad your happy, and looking forward to seeing your install. In my web there is a section, a Pictorial, of installs for insight and ideas. I know I don't have then posted yet, but the package deals i am putting together do include the wet plate kits as well as the dry plate kits. I am not totally anti-wet, lol. It wasn't that long ago that I removed a wet nozzle kit that was a 3rd stage on my personal car, lol.
Robert

 

Thanks for the insight but at the end of the day my choice was the wet kit for my application. After much research from this forum, other sites and calling around different vendors this just made sense for me.

I am not interested in doing a timing retard or a tune for a small 100 shot and I am not going to the track regularly enough to sacrifice, even in a small way, my daily driving. Only one person doubted the fact of not needing a tune for a wet kit but the overwhelming majority was in agreeance that a wet kit of this size is good with minor changes.

Hopefully I can get some direction on how to do a clean install from everyone here. The biggest problem I am finding with any nitrous kit is that the installation manuals are generic and not specific. This is very frustrating for a guy like me who needs to follow clear directions.

Many may suggest that I should take the car to a shop and get it done but if you live in Canada as I do you would quickly realize that many installers here talk a lot of. Many dont have the know how but claim they do. This isn't a shot at anybody in particular but just my personal experience. I would rather take my chances and do it myself. You guys in the US have it good

Can anyone offer some guidance into the install of a C6 coupe?

 

Not sure what you meant on the tune? Everyone regarless of the size should have the a/f checked. That's a nitrous tune for you. The jetting that is recomended is just a starting point and should cover all applications. It may be 10.9 on one car and 13.7 on another. Now with that said, a small hit does not cause high enough increased cylinder pressures to normally cause issues. So it really is up to the end user whether or not he wants a tune. The tune also includes stepping to TR6 plugs, IMO, for most. We just want safety. Now with that said, this applies for both wet and dry at these levels, a dry certainly needs no extra work either.

The install is really easy and you'll be surprised at how well you will do.
Robert

 

I have ordered the TR6 plugs with the kit. Hopefully I have all the odds and ends covered and the install goes as smoothly as you say it will.

 

here is my harris wet kit on my z06

 

Reza, rattt g's install is so very clean. It was one that was chosen to go in the install pictorial as a good representative of what a clean install can and should look like. I am sure he would be more than happy to help with input should you need. That's the way the Vette community works and I certainly have learned a lot from others installs and tips.
Robert

 

Robert,

We simply got our wires crossed. I thought you were alleging that anyone (me in this case) who argues for wet over dry doesn't have any real world experience. My apologies. Oh, and NO, I don't work for NX. However, they have taken very good care of this customer over the years.

My apologies.

 

that looks incredible....I'll do my best

 

Apology accepted. Trust me, I know how I can get passionate real fast and get into trouble, lol, so no worry here, as I figured it was just a mix up.

I like NX also, and run some of their products. It just is, they have never really liked the idea of the dry technology, but that may be changing as they are supposed to be releasing a new dry kit, finally, lol.
Robert