Both the OEM fuel pump fuse and the BAP fuse need to be 30A.
Blown BAP fuse
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,290
Likes: 0
From: Willow Springs IL
Blown BAP fuse
So yesterday I was on I-55 on my way home from a birthday party when I decided to step on it a little bit. Let's just say I was in the boost for a pretty long time when the car just quit running.
I decided that the first place to look would be the BAP since it quit while under a full load. The installer of my A&A kit was definately not a mechanic since the BAP was spliced into the fuel pump harness with crimp connecters that were all burned up. I removed the solderless connectors and hard soldered the wires together. Hopefully everything will be ok with a better connection to the fuel pump now.
Anyway... the moral of the story is. Don't use crimp connectors on your Boost A Pump. They will let you down.
Anyone else have this happen to them?
I decided that the first place to look would be the BAP since it quit while under a full load. The installer of my A&A kit was definately not a mechanic since the BAP was spliced into the fuel pump harness with crimp connecters that were all burned up. I removed the solderless connectors and hard soldered the wires together. Hopefully everything will be ok with a better connection to the fuel pump now.
Anyway... the moral of the story is. Don't use crimp connectors on your Boost A Pump. They will let you down.
Anyone else have this happen to them?
Instructor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 234
Likes: 3
From: Wexford, PA
Best way to go is to use the RaceTronics Fuel Pump Harness. Its all plug and play that way.
Have up'ed your fuel pump and BAP fuses to 30A also? I have heard of people blowing those that stay with the 15A.
Have up'ed your fuel pump and BAP fuses to 30A also? I have heard of people blowing those that stay with the 15A.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,290
Likes: 0
From: Willow Springs IL
The fuse under the hood is a 20A, as is the fuse in the BAP too. I think I should be ok now that there is a good solid connection into the stock harness.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 636
Likes: 2
From: Lumberton TX
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Racer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 383
Likes: 1
From: McHenry IL
Wow rob, another issue with it? Sucks. Glad you have the cash to fix it all though....LOL. That thing would be sitting in my garage until next spring if it was me. ****ing installer. Get it back on the road asap. And do you have any pics of it? I miss it.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 174
Likes: 17
From: Dubai Dubai
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,290
Likes: 0
From: Willow Springs IL
I am quickly running out of cash for it.
That built RPM trans and diff cost me a bunch earlier this summer. I fixed the wiring and hopefully it should be good to go now. I don't have many pictures, but I can send some to you soon. We are going to Galena on th 26th so I'm sure we will take plenty of pics there.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 132
Likes: 3
From: Surprise, AZ
I just did the racetronix harness and KB BAP 40amp for under $400.00. According to KB you can cut out the BAP 30amp fuse if you are running the racetronix harness with 30amp fuse. Thats the way I set mine up and no issues so far. It's a very clean setup, plug and play. The reasoning is the underhood 30amp will protect both the harness and BAP. If a fuse were to blow it's an easy underhood fix. Instead of having to get behind the rear wheel liner.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.