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ok, after the dewitts the vette is cooler and AC is cooling.
but it's still overheating on stop and go heavy trafic, but when in P/N it's even cooling
I know that I have to add the dewitts fan, but why it's cooling in P/N!
and overheating when idleing in gear.
any Idea?
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You could try a seperate trans cooler with a fan, placed prior to the radiator, so it cools the trans fluid before it goes into the radiator. We have seen large temp drops in coolant from doing that.
You could try a seperate trans cooler with a fan, placed prior to the radiator, so it cools the trans fluid before it goes into the radiator. We have seen large temp drops in coolant from doing that.
I am sure to try this, I will tack the vette to the track next month.
so do you think it's from the tary?
what about the timing?
and yes I like my fog light very very much, I saw it before but I couldn't think on doing it. sorry the vette with the fog rooock man.
I am sure to try this, I will tack the vette to the track next month.
so do you think it's from the tary?
what about the timing?
and yes I like my fog light very very much, I saw it before but I couldn't think on doing it. sorry the vette with the fog rooock man.
I understand 100% but when the engine compartment is packed 100% with intercoolers, larger fans (I have the duals), etc. It is the only "fresh air" I could find. If you have removed your leafsprings you have a spot underneath to mount a cooler. I went with a round in-efficient gadget but it does work. I may switch it out with an Earls straight stack if I encounter any more problems.
For a quick fix I would change out the two pin connector (to handle more amps) and up your fan speed and frequency.
You could try a seperate trans cooler with a fan, placed prior to the radiator, so it cools the trans fluid before it goes into the radiator. We have seen large temp drops in coolant from doing that.
100% - I have a dewitts but had the trans cooler bypassed and the temps dropped. The coolant was rising from the transmission heat transfer.
First, I am not am expert, but had a BMW that did the same thing. Pulled a couple degrees of timing and a new water pump fixed everything. Second, this screams tune / timing. Stopped in traffic it should be closed loop, has the tuner adjusted timing on the closed loop maps? Good luck, it will all come right in the end.
First, I am not am expert, but had a BMW that did the same thing. Pulled a couple degrees of timing and a new water pump fixed everything. Second, this screams tune / timing. Stopped in traffic it should be closed loop, has the tuner adjusted timing on the closed loop maps? Good luck, it will all come right in the end.
I sure hope so, looking in timming sence it's easer to go for.
and CPG1962, I still have places for cooling, didn't try the fan yet, still trany cooler (smal one with fan form b&m) may solve it.
I sure hope so, looking in timming sence it's easer to go for.
and CPG1962, I still have places for cooling, didn't try the fan yet, still trany cooler (smal one with fan form b&m) may solve it.
I still beleive you will find changing out the 2 pin connector and then having your tuner pump up the fan speed, cycle time, and frequency is the easiest way to go. The 2 pin connector is north of the Fan control box (6" x 6" x 2" approx). The 2 pin connector is blue in color I beleive and is the main power source going into the fan area. You can make one out of aluminum and then wrap it with shrink tubing or mastic tape. The fan is set at 85% from the factory and comes on, stays on for a duration,a nd then turns off. I beleive there are two temp "zones" the fan comes on and off. These can be adjusted with tuner box. Crank up the fan to 95% and allow it to come on earleier and run longer. The difference SHOULD be tremendous.
NO ****! Do you have coil overs? If yes, place a cooler where your leaf springs once where. My car creates ALOT of heat with HP and forged pistons. I have gotton it under control. You may HAVE to pull those foglights. Best of luck.
Another tidbit I just learned was the from A&A. I have a PC D1SC with a PC intercooler. You may want to switch to the A&A intercooler IF you run std procharger unit.