well I decided to pull the trigger and get the nitrous system. I'm going to do a 125 shot. I got the micro edge controller for a window switch. my question is weather I need the box to pull the timing when I use the bottle? which is better?

 

yes you need the timing pulling box im assuming youre using a harris kit as i am

 

yep I was wondering if the controller did that or if I needed there box if so I'll just buy there box I want to get everything and try and put it in this weekend and the cam then get it all tuned at once. hopeing I can do it in a 3 day weekend lol I know the tune will be later on in the week though.

 

I have another question about nitrous.....if your car is already tuned with a cam and stuff and you have a wet kit do you have to tune it again? or do you just need one of the timing retard boxes the pulls timing when you have it armed? I never understood if you needed another tune or not.

 

well I'm not sure completely but even with the box without a wideband and a scanner to know what the engine is doing. you won't know how much timming to pull and all that stuff. and I have been told even if your shooting 100 shot you sould get it tuned. that's why I'm doing the cam and nitrous at once and have them both tuned with and without the nitrous. so it's good for both. but I'm no expert that's for sure

 

with my nitrous setup i have 1 tune. a motor tune. then when i turn on my nitrous system, the lingenfelter timing retard turns on and automatically pulls out the appropriate degrees of timing i have it set for on nitrous. when i am done, i turn off the nitrous and my tune goes back to normal. when we did the pulls on the dyno, we checked the jetting, afr, and timing to make sure it was all correct. the timing retard makes it much easier so i don't have to carry around a laptop and change the tune back and forth. and i know the timing retard is pulling timing b/c when you hook a volt meter it should read a certain number which equals a certain amount of timing. so for a rough example i am just throwing out numbers. the voltmeter may read 1.05 which means 8 degrees of timing is taken out whereas 1.25 means 6 degrees. those numbers aren't correct b/c i am too lazy to look at my sheet. i just threw some random numbers out for explanation. also we did a pull with the timing retard on and no nitrous and my car lost 30-40hp as a result of the timing being taken out. so you know it works.

 

When I'm out driving around I'm always ON KILL. I wanted to get a IAT tricker but decided screw it and just bought HP Tuners since I am always messing with my car anyways and my tuner (co-worker) isn't always available since he tunes so many trucks.

You do not have to get the car retuned completely, you just have to tune for the nitrous. I put my kit on, pilled nitrous and fuel to recommended jettings for a 150 (I run NX noids with NOS plate, so I pilled according to NOS plate). Changed plugs to TR6s gapped at .035. Pulled 4 degs on the dyno and made a pull. Had some spark blowout at 5000rpm so I let out and pulled the plugs. Too much timing and started melting #7 and #8. Switched to TR7 gapped at .030, pulled another 4 deg. Made a pull.. blew through the clutch. Let it cool down and made another pass, hit the nitrous at 4500 (window switch set at 3500.. I was trying to hit it after peak torque). Car made 630hp @ 6000RPMs cause the clutch started to glaze over again. Checked AFR, 12.0-12.3:1 all the way across. Good. Checked the plugs, they were good so I pulled it off the dyno. No reason to beat on the clutch.

On the street the clutch holds up decent 2nd and 3rd no problem, top of 4th it will start to get mushy.. too much powershifting I guess.

My whole thing is, it's nice and all to have both motor and nitrous tune but if you are going to race someone you aren't gonna gimp yourself and race them on motor.. so adding another $300 to the bill + labor of wiring it up might not be worth it.

Although, my car is a turd with a capital T on motor.

 

Interesting to say the least!! If I go nitrous I will probably just get the timer so I don't have to mess with another tune tho. Right now I am at 443/420tq so 30 less won't be that bad using the box. Can you program the box to pull the timing at a certain RPM or does it just pull the timing in general?

 

from my understanding it only pulls the Timing when the system is on. I will have the car tuned for without the Nitrous and have the box pull the timming when I need it. that sounds like the best solution to me. and I'll have one tune in there just going to do it all at one time since I don't have the cam installed yet.

 

Do you not have a person with HP Tuners around you? If not.. then I would say you put that $300 bucks into a HPTuners software for yourself. That way, ANY future upgrades you can make adjustments yourself and get advice from others on this forum and other forums, go try them and see if they work.

If you have a tuner near you with a dyno, I'd definitely recommend you go put that thing back on the dyno regardless if you are gonna get a timing box or not.

 

all though I have the HP tuner software but I couldn't figure out what half the stuff on there ment and I never got a straight answer as to what was supose to be what so I knew what to change and what to leave alone lol. I wish I had a better understanding of that side of the house for sure I can pull and replace just about anything really but when it comes to that it's pretty greek to me.

 

The three most important things to me are , Wideband AFR gauge or monitor it on the dyno, Timing ,retard box or in the tune and last reading the plugs, the plugs will always tell you a lot. I would suggest getting it on a dyno to monitor everything that is going on. Peace of mind for me. Just my .02

 

Turkey -

What are you making on the motor?

 

I made 491whp on motor. Mods are Spin's cam and ported manifold/tb, Kooks 1 7/8, catted X, Corsa catback and airaid CAI.

I have been experiencing some issues with the nitrous on the street after I dyno'd the 630. Also, I made 630whp @ 6000rpms because my clutch slipped and hung at 6k. I think it would have pulled 650ish if I could have pulled it to 6800.

After it made the power I took it out on the street and it hit wayyyy too soft. I thought my clutch was gone or I had gotten a bad fill cause the power was fluctuating. AFR, timing and plugs all looked good so I was stumped.

So after reviewing a few things with my kit and making some modifications it hits SUPER hard now and pulls straight on through the gear. I will put it back on the dyno whenever I get the chance and update you guys.

 

Big T,

Just reading through your posts here... (and I don't know what sort of problem you're having) But.. The fact you had to pull 8 degrees of timing is indicative of a problem. That is, unless you're spraying significantly more than a 150 shot? (and I'm guessing that's not the case based on your RWHP numbers...?)

At most I would have pulled 3 (MAYBE 4) degs of overall timing as long as 93 is available @ The pump. Suggest a retune with a diff A:F monitor and really watch KR.

 

I bought both products for my system. I don't have it on the car yet.

http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/prod...age=1&featured

http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/prod...&cat=57&page=1