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Thanks and good point. It's something I can monitor with my AeroForce gauge to warm me if it that condition exists!! Here's the list of items you can monitor with this setup..... Thanks again for the heads up because not trying to create an anchor...
Very nice write up, keep up the post, alot of us are gaining valuable information. THANK YOU
Thanks and good point. It's something I can monitor with my AeroForce gauge to warm me if it that condition exists!! Here's the list of items you can monitor with this setup..... Thanks again for the heads up because not trying to create an anchor...
You may want to make a baseline note of what your injector duty cycles and pulse width are (as well as long-term fuel trims) - if these spike up over a short period it would be suggestive of fuel problems.
In other words, as the pump efficiency decreases, the fuel volume under load (say... laying on the pedal!) will tend to drop off because the pump can't keep up. Thus, the computer tells the injectors to stay open longer to get more fuel into the cylinder (because of less volume) and is an indicator of pump efficiency.
Unfortunately, fuel VOLUME is not the same as PSI - so mounting a PSI guage on the rail is also an indicator, but perhaps not the best solution either (it's hard to read when you're going 90mph!).
You may want to make a baseline note of what your injector duty cycles and pulse width are (as well as long-term fuel trims) - if these spike up over a short period it would be suggestive of fuel problems.
In other words, as the pump efficiency decreases, the fuel volume under load (say... laying on the pedal!) will tend to drop off because the pump can't keep up. Thus, the computer tells the injectors to stay open longer to get more fuel into the cylinder (because of less volume) and is an indicator of pump efficiency.
Unfortunately, fuel VOLUME is not the same as PSI - so mounting a PSI guage on the rail is also an indicator, but perhaps not the best solution either (it's hard to read when you're going 90mph!).
PS Post more photos.
Ok.. excellent info. I will do just that as it's easy to program the gauge which can also log that data. Edlebrock is using 52 lb injectors for my setup which shouldn't present a problem for the stock pump. I'm going to program the gauge tonight to look at the data you suggest. You can also set it to STROBE (has 2 very small leds) for warning based on any parameters or deviation you set.
I do have a few pics during the install but plan on posting some when i get my new CCW's and 325's mounted up....
I'd suggest finishing out your boltons to let that motor breath.
I have this sinking feeling I'll be back at ECS this spring for exactly what you suggest! I'm tell you however it's all in the tune... These things are all but worthless with having a really good tuner and Doug IMO is one of the best around.....
Ok.. excellent info. I will do just that as it's easy to program the gauge which can also log that data. Edlebrock is using 52 lb injectors for my setup which shouldn't present a problem for the stock pump. I'm going to program the gauge tonight to look at the data you suggest. You can also set it to STROBE (has 2 very small leds) for warning based on any parameters or deviation you set.
I do have a few pics during the install but plan on posting some when i get my new CCW's and 325's mounted up....
I should preface my other posts by saying: I sincerely doubt you're going to have Pump issues ANY time in the near future. But since that was a concern of yours initially I wanted to expand slightly.
Also, the parameters I mentioned are really only effective in closed-loop (normal/aggressive driving) conditions. IIRC, when you floor it wide-open (drag strip, for example), the computer reverts back to baseline parameters not seen with your scanner; but the tuners can chime in if that has changed with the newer cars.
In either case - I would just get an idea where your at while you know everything is healthy. A few years and a few thousand miles from now, if you start suspecting problems... THEN you can come back and try to figure things out.
I have this sinking feeling I'll be back at ECS this spring for exactly what you suggest! I'm tell you however it's all in the tune... These things are all but worthless with having a really good tuner and Doug IMO is one of the best around.....
My pro-charged C6 came with a full 3" Z06 exhaust system - manifolds right thru to the exhaust tips. I can control the muffler flaps manually from the buttons on my visor.
Love this set up cause she can be real quiet for long trips or open for a more agressive sound. I know plenty of guys who have had header installs only to regret the too-loud sound and heat soak you get from them.
Don't know if a Z06 exhaust on an LS2 or LS3 gives the same flow as headers would, but the set up sounds better than stock, is quieter than headers and costs less.
My observation has been that headers do allow more mechanical noise to be heard...primarily valve train. The mechanical noise is a by-product of the thinner tubes. Headers combined with free flow cats will also increase exhaust volume some...not really perceptible when my NPPs are closed though. Stay away from the temptation of the Gaybay Whang Chu el' cheapo headers...you get what you pay for! BUY AMERICAN! Also, spend the extra bucks and get them JetHot coated to help with the underhood heat. A side benefit of installing headers is that you move those two furnaces (a.k.a. stock catalytic converters) out from under the hood to somewhere underneath the car in the under car airflow. It made a ton of difference for my tunnel heat problem.
My observation has been that headers do allow more mechanical noise to be heard...primarily valve train. The mechanical noise is a by-product of the thinner tubes. Headers combined with free flow cats will also increase exhaust volume some...not really perceptible when my NPPs are closed though. Stay away from the temptation of the Gaybay Whang Chu el' cheapo headers...you get what you pay for! BUY AMERICAN! Also, spend the extra bucks and get them JetHot coated to help with the underhood heat. A side benefit of installing headers is that you move those two furnaces (a.k.a. stock catalytic converters) out from under the hood to somewhere underneath the car in the under car airflow. It made a ton of difference for my tunnel heat problem.
"Gaybay Whang Chu el'cheapo headers"? Now, that's funny, but he's on point. The Z06 ex manni's will keep the heat inside the manifolds and squirt it out the back. Uncoated headers radiate the heat inside the under hood area. If you don't have good airflow through that area, it just compounds a bad situation.