So, I'm almost done putting in the V-3 T-trim system on my '08. The car is a Z51/manual, so I upgraded to the DeWitts radiator with built in engine oil cooler. I thought this was a great idea a anyway for the added cooling capacity. This has been a weekend project when I've had time, and I'm almost at the end but having a few issues that are probably all related.

I think the main issue is that the radiator will not sit all the way flush with the radiator cradle on the passenger side. I noticed this before I installed the head unit, but didn't think it would be a huge issue. It is almost like the radiator is floating- being held up by something. It doesn't seem to be the condenser or A/C lines, or the lower radiator hose. I tried giving the lower hose some more slack, but that didn't seem to help. The radiator is probably sitting 1/2" or more higher on the right side.

The next issue is that the plastic air filter tube does not want to fit over the larger radiator and onto my blower. There just doesn't seem to be enough room. This might be related to the radiator "floating" problem, because if I could get it down another 1/2", I would probably be okay. Maybe extending the lower radiator hose is the answer?

I'll try to get some pictures showing what it looks like. I'd like to hear from anyone who has installed an A&A/Dewitts combo. I might be able to muscle it in if I really try, but I'm not happy with that. I like for my cars to be easy to work on/repair/service, and this is almost making me regret going this route.

Thanks

 

call Andy at A and A. he can probably help without even seeing the car.

 

I have a Dewitts in my A&A car too. Getting the "dongle" onto the blower is a royal PITA. It fits, but it is very tight.

 

Did you install spacers between radiator support and frame?


Mike

 

Oh, yeah. The cradle is lowered and all that.

It is just a very tight fit with the thicker radiator. I was able to get it to seat a little better on the right side, but still no dice on the air intake "dongle". I fitted the plastic part with no silicone coupler, and it is still a snug fit. It is totally flush with the blower inlet. There is no space between the 2, which is why it is near impossible to install with the reducer/coupler installed.

I actually found that cutting the reducer a little shorter is helping a lot. I think I am going to have to take the fan back out and remove all the plastic in that upper right corner. I modified it as per the instructions, but I think it needs more with the bigger radiator. It was REALLY close to going on last time I tried. I think the fan shroud is getting in my way at this point.


Here you can see how tight it is on my car. This is showing the clearence without the reducer:



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

the intake is always a PITA but if you have it "floating" it will be NEAR impossible try lossening the radiator hoses and from under the car very gently pull down on the radiator and ensure that it comes down sang free thats how I did it when I had to put mine back in last time.

PS what is the clearence from the edge of the radator to the closest part of the Inlet on the volute?

 

Thanks. I was able to get the radiator to sit down a lot better. Seems that now the bigger issue is the angle the radiator sits and the clearance between the blower housing inlet and the radiator itself. I actually had to pry the radiator toward the front of the car just to slip the intake in for that picture without the coupler.

I'll get a measurement on that for you tonight. I also might try what you said about disconnecting the radiator hoses to give me more movement. Problem is I also have oil and trans cooler lines plugged into the damn thing. I also think cutting the fan some more is going to help.

 

The dongle attaches via a silcon coupler that I'm not seeing in the picture. Won't go by trying to attach it directly! I put the cooling fans in last from the underside. Goodluck!

 

That is an extremely tight area but I can assure you that everything WILL fit with the DeWitt's radiator.
It may be best to call during the day and talk to Jesse or James. They can give you some pointers on how to make it easier on you.

 

Yeah, I know. That picture was to illistrate how little room there is on my car. If the fans can go on after, that might be the best method though. I think I need to trim the fan a bit more anyway.

 

for what its worth sometimes new radiators come with the lower mounting rubber on the new radiator, if the old rubber mount is still on the car that would make one side higher then the other. dont know if that helps cant wait to hear the finished product

 

i had the same issue, i ended up playing with the a/c dryer and condenser up front to get the radiator to sit down all the way, after that the air bridge fit like a champ.

-Carl

 

did you get it?

 

I have not gotten back into it yet. I'm gonna save that for this weekend. I don't have the patience for this stuff after working on other people's cars for 9+ hours during the day.

I did talk to one of the Techs at A&A, though. Found out that they do cut the reducer that goes between the blower and air intake when doing one of these installs with the thicker radiator. That made me feel better, because that's what I did.

I'm also waiting on a set of constant tension clamps for all the intercooler and intake connections. A&A just started adding these to the kits, and they look nicer. Figured I do this before I put it together. Should be here tomorrow and ready to go for the weekend.

 

I swapped my original bumpers onto the new radiator. It is just very tight down there since you are lowering the radiator cradle a few inches. Everything has more tension on it. I am going to try to give myself a little more slack on the radiator hoses.

I can't wait to get it running either. My car is already cammed w/ headers making ~460 rwhp in na form. The goal is 650 rwhp with methanol. Should be fun

 

what heads/cam were you running?

 

It is an LS3 with stock heads and a 224/236 114+2 cam and LG Super Pros w/ B&B Fusions. I'm keeping it the same as it was, except that I took off the FAST 102 and put the stock manifold back on.

I thought about changing the cam while I was pinning the crank, but everyone told me that my cam would actually work really well with the blower. So I decided to keep it as-is.

 

why did you take off the fast?

 

with a FAST Manifold the TB hits the A&A Bracket,

I had to rotate the tb 180 degrees, extend the TB wires, and bend a custom bracket for the PS pump.

 

that sux