HOB Eliminator Kit review
#23
I have installed the same kit on my supercharged ls3 and would like to share my experience on this kit
First of all, Thank you Carlrx7 for your support and excellent review,,,Many Thanks also to save our money for the tach driver ... I will try it out today to connect to pin#48 for engine speed signal.
Regarding the kit,,,
I first bought the in-tank c6 "direct replacment" and when I tried to install it with my tanks on the ground... we discovered some special fittings "low profile" is needed and you will not able to complete the install at all! Im not sure why they call it a direct fit or replacment for the stock fuel system!
Then I was suggested by Jermy@HOB (I received a good support from him till now)
to buy the complete kit with over $2k,,,
The eliminator pmp is noisy and I will see how it will be with the adjusted speed controller.
one other thing is,, with the FAST 102 intake manifold, you MUST cut little from the body to install the fittings and fuel lines behind the driver's side fuel rail
3rd problem, Im facing and Im not sure why but most probably it is a shop installation problem,, my fuel gauge is not working properly... pointing to zero and displaying low fuel & service fuel system... sometime it will work and point to full position!
right now I can only only fill half a tank!...hopfully i will check the tanks and installation for the 2nd time,,,lot of work and time
Thank you all.
First of all, Thank you Carlrx7 for your support and excellent review,,,Many Thanks also to save our money for the tach driver ... I will try it out today to connect to pin#48 for engine speed signal.
Regarding the kit,,,
I first bought the in-tank c6 "direct replacment" and when I tried to install it with my tanks on the ground... we discovered some special fittings "low profile" is needed and you will not able to complete the install at all! Im not sure why they call it a direct fit or replacment for the stock fuel system!
Then I was suggested by Jermy@HOB (I received a good support from him till now)
to buy the complete kit with over $2k,,,
The eliminator pmp is noisy and I will see how it will be with the adjusted speed controller.
one other thing is,, with the FAST 102 intake manifold, you MUST cut little from the body to install the fittings and fuel lines behind the driver's side fuel rail
3rd problem, Im facing and Im not sure why but most probably it is a shop installation problem,, my fuel gauge is not working properly... pointing to zero and displaying low fuel & service fuel system... sometime it will work and point to full position!
right now I can only only fill half a tank!...hopfully i will check the tanks and installation for the 2nd time,,,lot of work and time
Thank you all.
#24
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2004
Location: Camarillo/Oxnard CA
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
3rd problem, Im facing and Im not sure why but most probably it is a shop installation problem,, my fuel gauge is not working properly... pointing to zero and displaying low fuel & service fuel system... sometime it will work and point to full position!
right now I can only only fill half a tank!...hopfully i will check the tanks and installation for the 2nd time,,,lot of work and time
right now I can only only fill half a tank!...hopfully i will check the tanks and installation for the 2nd time,,,lot of work and time
#25
Le Mans Master
Hey, I've dealt with this exact problem on a few C6's after we installed big fuel systems w/ adjustable regulator. The siphon pump in the gas tank is not able to pull fuel from the passenger tank because the fuel pressure is set too low. You are running on half a tank of gas and only using/filling up the drivers tank each time. Turn you fuel regulator back up to at least 58psi and it will fix it. Been there done that a few times already.
#26
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2008
Location: TEXOMA
Posts: 3,712
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
my kit had me drop the passenger tank and install the pressure block off, low pressure shouldnt be a problem.
I think the sending unit inside his tank is binding up inside the tank, the reason the service fuel system message comes up is because there is more fuel in the right tank than the left tank. the left tank should always be full until the right tank is empty.
I also verified i had no sending unit problems by rolling the tank and monitoring the resistance with my multimeter, watchin the resistance increase to max then back down to min multiple times, this assured me that it wasn't snagging on the two hoses inside the tank.
-Carl
I think the sending unit inside his tank is binding up inside the tank, the reason the service fuel system message comes up is because there is more fuel in the right tank than the left tank. the left tank should always be full until the right tank is empty.
I also verified i had no sending unit problems by rolling the tank and monitoring the resistance with my multimeter, watchin the resistance increase to max then back down to min multiple times, this assured me that it wasn't snagging on the two hoses inside the tank.
-Carl
#27
Thanks for your input gentlemen! Appreciate it...
Before the installation of the HOB kit, the fuel gauge was working and never had any issue at all. Also I read a lot that the sending unit is popular thing to be replaced (and some guys used some fuel cleaner and it solved their gauge issue pointing to 0!)
Im not sure if the sending unit now failed and why? or is the shop missed somthing in the installation or not... or it is just a mstter of ajdusting the requlator and fuel pressure!
The second time when we dropped the tank and checked it,, they seems to fix it but after the installation,,, we let the car run for half an hour the suddenly the guage falls to 0 position!
I got my car refilled for 20 liter,, and the gauge displayed at full position... so it seems it is working..after a while it came back again at empty position...
so right now it is displaying full position for few times then drop to empty position
and a check engine code is there for the fuel system, cannot remember the#
but it is related to the fuel level has too high or too low voltage.. I will double check it tomorrow my hptuners.
Hopfully, I will not be forced to drop the tanks for the 3rd time
Before the installation of the HOB kit, the fuel gauge was working and never had any issue at all. Also I read a lot that the sending unit is popular thing to be replaced (and some guys used some fuel cleaner and it solved their gauge issue pointing to 0!)
Im not sure if the sending unit now failed and why? or is the shop missed somthing in the installation or not... or it is just a mstter of ajdusting the requlator and fuel pressure!
The second time when we dropped the tank and checked it,, they seems to fix it but after the installation,,, we let the car run for half an hour the suddenly the guage falls to 0 position!
I got my car refilled for 20 liter,, and the gauge displayed at full position... so it seems it is working..after a while it came back again at empty position...
so right now it is displaying full position for few times then drop to empty position
and a check engine code is there for the fuel system, cannot remember the#
but it is related to the fuel level has too high or too low voltage.. I will double check it tomorrow my hptuners.
Hopfully, I will not be forced to drop the tanks for the 3rd time
#28
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2004
Location: Camarillo/Oxnard CA
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for your input gentlemen! Appreciate it...
Before the installation of the HOB kit, the fuel gauge was working and never had any issue at all. Also I read a lot that the sending unit is popular thing to be replaced (and some guys used some fuel cleaner and it solved their gauge issue pointing to 0!)
Im not sure if the sending unit now failed and why? or is the shop missed somthing in the installation or not... or it is just a mstter of ajdusting the requlator and fuel pressure!
The second time when we dropped the tank and checked it,, they seems to fix it but after the installation,,, we let the car run for half an hour the suddenly the guage falls to 0 position!
I got my car refilled for 20 liter,, and the gauge displayed at full position... so it seems it is working..after a while it came back again at empty position...
so right now it is displaying full position for few times then drop to empty position
and a check engine code is there for the fuel system, cannot remember the#
but it is related to the fuel level has too high or too low voltage.. I will double check it tomorrow my hptuners.
Hopfully, I will not be forced to drop the tanks for the 3rd time
Before the installation of the HOB kit, the fuel gauge was working and never had any issue at all. Also I read a lot that the sending unit is popular thing to be replaced (and some guys used some fuel cleaner and it solved their gauge issue pointing to 0!)
Im not sure if the sending unit now failed and why? or is the shop missed somthing in the installation or not... or it is just a mstter of ajdusting the requlator and fuel pressure!
The second time when we dropped the tank and checked it,, they seems to fix it but after the installation,,, we let the car run for half an hour the suddenly the guage falls to 0 position!
I got my car refilled for 20 liter,, and the gauge displayed at full position... so it seems it is working..after a while it came back again at empty position...
so right now it is displaying full position for few times then drop to empty position
and a check engine code is there for the fuel system, cannot remember the#
but it is related to the fuel level has too high or too low voltage.. I will double check it tomorrow my hptuners.
Hopfully, I will not be forced to drop the tanks for the 3rd time
If you have a adjustable FPR w/ boost reference, remove that line and seal the hose so you don't create a vacuum leak on engine. Then use a fuel pressure gauge and verify while you adj the regulator to 58-60psi with the car running. Lock it down and top off gas tank and then clear all the codes and drive it. Just be ready to have to adjust your tune because the fuel pressure change is gonna throw off the a/f.
Let us know how it turns out.
#29
Former Vendor
Please make sure the shop you had do the installation installed everything correctly. You had mentioned they never wired in the speed controller which is why your pump was noisy. You also need to make sure they installed the fuel pressure regulator block off in the passenger side tank. This system is not a very difficult system to install but it can be very tedious and takes time to do a thorough job. If they cut corners it will cause nothing but headaches. It can also be a bit of a hassle getting the crossover lines hooked back up that run between the tanks.
Shoot me back an e-mail and I'll keep helping you find where the issue is.
#30
Former Vendor
Although what Joshua is mentioning is good information we run our systems down at 40-45psi without issue so he should not have to run 58psi to get the siphon to work.
#32
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2004
Location: Camarillo/Oxnard CA
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jeremy, I know its weird. I've run several C5's and C6's with boost referenced FPR at 45psi at idle hooked up and never had issue with tank siphoning. BUT, then I've had 3 C6's just not want to siphon unless I turned the pressure back up. So on those 3 cars I ran w/o the boost reference and just set them to 60psi and all was working again. Go figure. I fought the first one for over a week, because I knew it worked before and couldn't explain why it wouldn't work now.
#33
I'm not quite sure what you mean by having good service, until now. I have answered any questions you have asked through the 28 emails I have received and have been there to give you suggestions as to what could be giving you your fuel level problem. I just emailed you back this morning concerning your last email.
Please make sure the shop you had do the installation installed everything correctly. You had mentioned they never wired in the speed controller which is why your pump was noisy. You also need to make sure they installed the fuel pressure regulator block off in the passenger side tank. This system is not a very difficult system to install but it can be very tedious and takes time to do a thorough job. If they cut corners it will cause nothing but headaches. It can also be a bit of a hassle getting the crossover lines hooked back up that run between the tanks.
Shoot me back an e-mail and I'll keep helping you find where the issue is.
Please make sure the shop you had do the installation installed everything correctly. You had mentioned they never wired in the speed controller which is why your pump was noisy. You also need to make sure they installed the fuel pressure regulator block off in the passenger side tank. This system is not a very difficult system to install but it can be very tedious and takes time to do a thorough job. If they cut corners it will cause nothing but headaches. It can also be a bit of a hassle getting the crossover lines hooked back up that run between the tanks.
Shoot me back an e-mail and I'll keep helping you find where the issue is.
yeah there was bunch of emails going back and forth and as I mentioned you are providing a good support...
the emails was for the fitment issue with the FAS102 (no clearance)
and also for returning the a1000
and the issues and open questions I have and you answerd,, Thanks
#34
Really sounds like the fuel pressure is set too low. Check those codes and post them here. Each time a C6 had a problem the code was for fuel system preformance B low output or something like that. Don't drop the tanks until you try the pressure change.
If you have a adjustable FPR w/ boost reference, remove that line and seal the hose so you don't create a vacuum leak on engine. Then use a fuel pressure gauge and verify while you adj the regulator to 58-60psi with the car running. Lock it down and top off gas tank and then clear all the codes and drive it. Just be ready to have to adjust your tune because the fuel pressure change is gonna throw off the a/f.
Let us know how it turns out.
If you have a adjustable FPR w/ boost reference, remove that line and seal the hose so you don't create a vacuum leak on engine. Then use a fuel pressure gauge and verify while you adj the regulator to 58-60psi with the car running. Lock it down and top off gas tank and then clear all the codes and drive it. Just be ready to have to adjust your tune because the fuel pressure change is gonna throw off the a/f.
Let us know how it turns out.
the DTC was set P0462 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
When you clear the code,,, the gauge will work again (although Im not sure if it is pointing/referencing the correct amount of fuel inside the tanks!)
once you clear the code, the next time you start the engine, the check engine light comes on and then he fuel gauge will point to empty
I have not yet connected the speed controller to tach signal but it is now operated by the manual switch,
-the low voltage was set to near 60 PSI
-When I switch it on to run full pump speed, the fuel pressure gauge displaying 63 PSI (pump will be louder/noiser)
In both above cases, the same DTC will come up (even if you let the pump run at full speed and start the car, same dtc will be shown)
Any ideas gentlmen?
I'm facing this major issue + overheating issue as the stock fans wont fit perfectly the Dewitts radiator
Thank you for your input gentlmen,
I will wait for your reply before I drop the tanks again, as per the ownershop he checked everything and it was ok,, no installation issues should be there.
#36
Hey, couple of questions on installing this system.
What length did you cut the siphon hose to? Just like in this pic?
Is the other return hose (from crossover tube with open end) zip tied or somehow attached to the pump? There was no mention about that in the instructions...
Is the fuel return (from engine) straight down from the aluminium top plate? No hose there?
Did you have enough clearance for the mechanical fuel pressure gauge to be mounted on the regulator facing up? Looking at your pics you had it that way before turning the regulator upside down. I was thinking of putting the mechanical one there and then the electric sending unit to the other rail just like you initially had. Why did you swap their positions?
Thanks!
What length did you cut the siphon hose to? Just like in this pic?
Is the other return hose (from crossover tube with open end) zip tied or somehow attached to the pump? There was no mention about that in the instructions...
Is the fuel return (from engine) straight down from the aluminium top plate? No hose there?
Did you have enough clearance for the mechanical fuel pressure gauge to be mounted on the regulator facing up? Looking at your pics you had it that way before turning the regulator upside down. I was thinking of putting the mechanical one there and then the electric sending unit to the other rail just like you initially had. Why did you swap their positions?
Thanks!
#37
One more question... Just installed the driver side tank fuel level sensor to the provided bracket. It has like 1cm of free play up and down... Doesn't sound good for sensing the actual fuel level... What did you guys do for that?