Oil Leak!!!
06-26-2011, 12:25 PM
#21
Melting Slicks
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Add a catch can with vents and you should be good to go. My oil was blowing out the valve cover gaskets and the oil pan area. Added the venting and the oil was gone.
06-27-2011, 11:49 AM
#22
If you were leaking that amount of air there could be a ring seal issue w/#7 but what I'm really curious about is the fact that there was no flow out the valley cover tube. Since it is a fixed orfice (and a small one that is insufficient to properly vent a FI motor) it could be plugged and that would explain your issues! Try capping it and running a PCV valve from the rear of the drivers side valve cover to the vacuum port on the intake manifold. If the fixed orfice is plugged the only way for the crankcase to vent is through the fresh air line.
06-27-2011, 02:23 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
I also just ordered the dual catch can from Byun Speed, and was curious of what to do with the vent tube that is pictured below
On A&A kit, this is removed from intake tube and is now connected to a hose that routes to the fitting on the air filter. Should it be plugged, vented, etc??
On A&A kit, this is removed from intake tube and is now connected to a hose that routes to the fitting on the air filter. Should it be plugged, vented, etc??
06-28-2011, 11:13 AM
#25
Every time your motor gets up to operating temp the harmful compounds will "flash-off" to vapor, but only a small amount will actually leave the crankcase with the excess blow-by. The majority will recondense after shut down when the motor cools and coat the internal engine parts as well as contaminate the oil faster (doubt this? do an oil analysis both ways and see....you will be horrified with what accumulates).
Now if you don't care about engine life and are just using the motor short term then just venting is your choice.
Doubt any of this? There is a ton of data available to show this. It is just not imediately noticeable as the damage is done over time. Anyone wanting me to post more data just ask. I have been working with crankcase ventalation on race & performance builds and FI applications for over 30 years....have a ton of information on this.
On the fresh air tube, it can stay as is but is a path for ingestion with the LS7 as it runs through the dry sump tank and "burps" oil into the intake bridge. If you do not have that issue (run a bit lower oil level helps) then your fine. Otherwise we put a remote breather run from where the line would attach to the tank and mount it on the pass side of the radiator mount. Then you must cap off the hole it connected to on the air bridge or you will have fuel trim issues.
Doug, I sent you a complete dual valve system months ago free to try.....install it on a build and see for yourself how well it works. It is the only true evac system for turbo and front mount SC systems that evacuates at both boost & non-boost operating and deals with the excess crankcase pressure (unless there is a ring/piston/cylinder issue) as long as you pull from the rear of the drivers side valve cover and not the valley cover. The valley cover vent is a fixed orfice and is to restrictive to allow the CFM of flow needed for a FI application.
Even our drag motors we use header evac systems on the budget builds, and belt driven vacuum pumps on our high-end builds.
06-28-2011, 04:57 PM
#26
Le Mans Master
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No the car is essentially new, I just broke 2000 miles (300 miles break in, and 600 miles driving to and from the tuners.) So, I haven't changed the oil yet, although I did add some to get it to the high end of the operating range. Once I get everything put back together, I'll definitely keep it in the middle of the operating range.
Did you follow the dry sump procedure for checking oil level? If not, you are WAY overfilled.
06-28-2011, 05:31 PM
#27
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That will relieve the excess pressure, but leaves the harmful combustion by-products in the crankcase which will cause damage over time. You need to evacuate the crankcase.....not just reieve pressure. Think about it. The unburnt fuel, water vapor, carbon particles, sulfuric acid, all stay in the crankcase if you just vent it and dont evacuate it.
Every time your motor gets up to operating temp the harmful compounds will "flash-off" to vapor, but only a small amount will actually leave the crankcase with the excess blow-by. The majority will recondense after shut down when the motor cools and coat the internal engine parts as well as contaminate the oil faster (doubt this? do an oil analysis both ways and see....you will be horrified with what accumulates).
Now if you don't care about engine life and are just using the motor short term then just venting is your choice.
Doubt any of this? There is a ton of data available to show this. It is just not imediately noticeable as the damage is done over time. Anyone wanting me to post more data just ask. I have been working with crankcase ventalation on race & performance builds and FI applications for over 30 years....have a ton of information on this.
On the fresh air tube, it can stay as is but is a path for ingestion with the LS7 as it runs through the dry sump tank and "burps" oil into the intake bridge. If you do not have that issue (run a bit lower oil level helps) then your fine. Otherwise we put a remote breather run from where the line would attach to the tank and mount it on the pass side of the radiator mount. Then you must cap off the hole it connected to on the air bridge or you will have fuel trim issues.
Doug, I sent you a complete dual valve system months ago free to try.....install it on a build and see for yourself how well it works. It is the only true evac system for turbo and front mount SC systems that evacuates at both boost & non-boost operating and deals with the excess crankcase pressure (unless there is a ring/piston/cylinder issue) as long as you pull from the rear of the drivers side valve cover and not the valley cover. The valley cover vent is a fixed orfice and is to restrictive to allow the CFM of flow needed for a FI application.
Even our drag motors we use header evac systems on the budget builds, and belt driven vacuum pumps on our high-end builds.
Every time your motor gets up to operating temp the harmful compounds will "flash-off" to vapor, but only a small amount will actually leave the crankcase with the excess blow-by. The majority will recondense after shut down when the motor cools and coat the internal engine parts as well as contaminate the oil faster (doubt this? do an oil analysis both ways and see....you will be horrified with what accumulates).
Now if you don't care about engine life and are just using the motor short term then just venting is your choice.
Doubt any of this? There is a ton of data available to show this. It is just not imediately noticeable as the damage is done over time. Anyone wanting me to post more data just ask. I have been working with crankcase ventalation on race & performance builds and FI applications for over 30 years....have a ton of information on this.
On the fresh air tube, it can stay as is but is a path for ingestion with the LS7 as it runs through the dry sump tank and "burps" oil into the intake bridge. If you do not have that issue (run a bit lower oil level helps) then your fine. Otherwise we put a remote breather run from where the line would attach to the tank and mount it on the pass side of the radiator mount. Then you must cap off the hole it connected to on the air bridge or you will have fuel trim issues.
Doug, I sent you a complete dual valve system months ago free to try.....install it on a build and see for yourself how well it works. It is the only true evac system for turbo and front mount SC systems that evacuates at both boost & non-boost operating and deals with the excess crankcase pressure (unless there is a ring/piston/cylinder issue) as long as you pull from the rear of the drivers side valve cover and not the valley cover. The valley cover vent is a fixed orfice and is to restrictive to allow the CFM of flow needed for a FI application.
Even our drag motors we use header evac systems on the budget builds, and belt driven vacuum pumps on our high-end builds.
I would be happy to try your set up on this car, but it's in China now..
06-28-2011, 05:35 PM
#28
Melting Slicks
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Thanks for all the info on what works for you. I'm not trying to make a case out of your 30 yrs of findings. I'm just going by what has worked for me and many many others. No need to get all technical, there is always an easy solution for a simple oil leak.
That will relieve the excess pressure, but leaves the harmful combustion by-products in the crankcase which will cause damage over time. You need to evacuate the crankcase.....not just reieve pressure. Think about it. The unburnt fuel, water vapor, carbon particles, sulfuric acid, all stay in the crankcase if you just vent it and dont evacuate it.
Every time your motor gets up to operating temp the harmful compounds will "flash-off" to vapor, but only a small amount will actually leave the crankcase with the excess blow-by. The majority will recondense after shut down when the motor cools and coat the internal engine parts as well as contaminate the oil faster (doubt this? do an oil analysis both ways and see....you will be horrified with what accumulates).
Now if you don't care about engine life and are just using the motor short term then just venting is your choice.
Doubt any of this? There is a ton of data available to show this. It is just not imediately noticeable as the damage is done over time. Anyone wanting me to post more data just ask. I have been working with crankcase ventalation on race & performance builds and FI applications for over 30 years....have a ton of information on this.
On the fresh air tube, it can stay as is but is a path for ingestion with the LS7 as it runs through the dry sump tank and "burps" oil into the intake bridge. If you do not have that issue (run a bit lower oil level helps) then your fine. Otherwise we put a remote breather run from where the line would attach to the tank and mount it on the pass side of the radiator mount. Then you must cap off the hole it connected to on the air bridge or you will have fuel trim issues.
Doug, I sent you a complete dual valve system months ago free to try.....install it on a build and see for yourself how well it works. It is the only true evac system for turbo and front mount SC systems that evacuates at both boost & non-boost operating and deals with the excess crankcase pressure (unless there is a ring/piston/cylinder issue) as long as you pull from the rear of the drivers side valve cover and not the valley cover. The valley cover vent is a fixed orfice and is to restrictive to allow the CFM of flow needed for a FI application.
Even our drag motors we use header evac systems on the budget builds, and belt driven vacuum pumps on our high-end builds.
Every time your motor gets up to operating temp the harmful compounds will "flash-off" to vapor, but only a small amount will actually leave the crankcase with the excess blow-by. The majority will recondense after shut down when the motor cools and coat the internal engine parts as well as contaminate the oil faster (doubt this? do an oil analysis both ways and see....you will be horrified with what accumulates).
Now if you don't care about engine life and are just using the motor short term then just venting is your choice.
Doubt any of this? There is a ton of data available to show this. It is just not imediately noticeable as the damage is done over time. Anyone wanting me to post more data just ask. I have been working with crankcase ventalation on race & performance builds and FI applications for over 30 years....have a ton of information on this.
On the fresh air tube, it can stay as is but is a path for ingestion with the LS7 as it runs through the dry sump tank and "burps" oil into the intake bridge. If you do not have that issue (run a bit lower oil level helps) then your fine. Otherwise we put a remote breather run from where the line would attach to the tank and mount it on the pass side of the radiator mount. Then you must cap off the hole it connected to on the air bridge or you will have fuel trim issues.
Doug, I sent you a complete dual valve system months ago free to try.....install it on a build and see for yourself how well it works. It is the only true evac system for turbo and front mount SC systems that evacuates at both boost & non-boost operating and deals with the excess crankcase pressure (unless there is a ring/piston/cylinder issue) as long as you pull from the rear of the drivers side valve cover and not the valley cover. The valley cover vent is a fixed orfice and is to restrictive to allow the CFM of flow needed for a FI application.
Even our drag motors we use header evac systems on the budget builds, and belt driven vacuum pumps on our high-end builds.
Last edited by BADZ; 06-28-2011 at 05:39 PM.
06-29-2011, 05:28 AM
#29
Racer
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agreed, I always try to start with the easiest solution frst - dropped the oil level. In all likelyhood it was probably the cause. That said, I've ordered my dual valve catch can. Because to me, running low oil is a work around not a solution. If it mitigates high pressure oil burps, extends the life of my oil, an provides some degree of protection for the engine, then it was $200 bucks well spent. I did the leak down test mostly as an excuse to learn how to do it, but one never knows...thanks for all the replies. Once I get the can installed, I plan on trying my hardest to fill it up...
Last edited by Adis; 06-29-2011 at 06:36 AM.
07-05-2011, 08:26 AM
#33
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Well. I got my Rx catch can last week and am ready to install. Hopefully this will solve my oil problems. I have a question though. The back pressure line is supposed to run to the SC air dongle, just upstream of the SC head unit. What kind of fitting should i use on the dongle? I'm wary of using anything that has a nut on the inside of the dongle. I can just see it coming loose and getting sucked into the turbine... I'm picturing something like a barbed fitting with a flange that i push through from the inside of the dongle. A collet nut would secure it from the outside as would the hose itself. i've looked online at Summit and Jegs as well as some pipe fitting sites, and can't find anything like what I'm imagining. Any suggestions?
07-05-2011, 11:54 AM
#34
Burning Brakes
Just got my RX installed this weekend - for the back pressure line I drilled a 1/2" hole in the dongle just before the blower and used a couple brass fittings to create a connection. Will post pics of how I did it tonight. Also ran a breather filter with one way check valve to the fresh air on the sump tank (LS7).
07-05-2011, 09:18 PM
#36
Burning Brakes
Here is what I did for the fitting:
Drill 1/2" hole in dongle closest to blower -
Then used brass fittings to create connection (3/8" barb with 1/4" male into 1/4" female with 90 degree, underneath is 1/4" female tightened to previous fitting with 1/4" male that I put another 3/8" barb to, as well as some rtv sealant in between connection point) -
Plugged the hole in the filter (added restrictor plate at same time) -
K&N breather filter connected to sump tank fresh air side -
Another view of filter -
Drill 1/2" hole in dongle closest to blower -
Then used brass fittings to create connection (3/8" barb with 1/4" male into 1/4" female with 90 degree, underneath is 1/4" female tightened to previous fitting with 1/4" male that I put another 3/8" barb to, as well as some rtv sealant in between connection point) -
Plugged the hole in the filter (added restrictor plate at same time) -
K&N breather filter connected to sump tank fresh air side -
Another view of filter -
Last edited by yur2slo; 07-05-2011 at 09:43 PM.
07-06-2011, 03:04 AM
#37
Racer
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Looks good YUR2SLO. Why did you use the barb inside the dongle? I assumed that it is best to keep the cross section of the fitting to a minimum to reduce turbulence in the airflow. Perhaps I don't fully understand how the system works. The crankcase is evacuated by vacuum from the turbine induction, correct? Does your internal 90* barbed set-up improve this? As opposed to having the interior of the fitting as flush with the wall of the dongle as possible.
Also, where'd you find the K&N breather with a 90* fitting? I need one!
Also, where'd you find the K&N breather with a 90* fitting? I need one!
Last edited by Adis; 07-06-2011 at 06:08 AM.
07-06-2011, 08:06 AM
#38
Burning Brakes
Correct. The red line needs to go as close to the inlet of the head unit as possible where the suction is the greatest under boost. I would go one step further and have the frsh air come from a stand alone checkvalved breather mounted on the pass side of the radiator and plug the air filter hole, but it will still work fine as shown unless your "burpping" oil from the tank.
Wish you were close enought to come in I would help get it figured out. Just ask if you need anything else.
Wish you were close enought to come in I would help get it figured out. Just ask if you need anything else.
For the filter, I bought the K&N breather from Pep Boys, added a 1/2" x 1/2" 90 degree pipe fitting (you can see where I used a small hose clamp to make sure the fitting was tight) so it would stand upright then connected that to a one way check valve (a pcv check valve from Grand National) that flows into the sump tank.
07-21-2011, 07:58 AM
#40
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Well, here's my set up. I used aluminum AN fittings. Any comments on the clean air side set up? I added a small catch can and valve inline from the air inlet. I know that it is drawing air, because i can feel it at the small filter, and the oil that used to be in the small catch can is now gone - sucked into the oil tank.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/albu...ictureid=87727
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/albu...ictureid=87728
Took the car out for a road test and every thing seems fine in the engine compartment. No hard driving, just putzing around town. And a 45 minute standard shift driving lesson in a parking lot with my girlfriend. Seemed OK, BUT, lo and behold, next day I find this under my car:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/albu...ictureid=87729
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/albu...ictureid=87731
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/albu...ictureid=87730
Looks to me like now pressure is forcing oil out every possible way from the pan (especially the rear main seal.) This didn't happen until I re plumbed the PCV system. Any opinions as to what's going on? I find it interesting that every bolt on the oil pan leaked oil EXCEPT the drain plug on the driver's side. Is this telling me anything other than it was torqued tighter than the others?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/albu...ictureid=87727
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/albu...ictureid=87728
Took the car out for a road test and every thing seems fine in the engine compartment. No hard driving, just putzing around town. And a 45 minute standard shift driving lesson in a parking lot with my girlfriend. Seemed OK, BUT, lo and behold, next day I find this under my car:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/albu...ictureid=87729
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/albu...ictureid=87731
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/albu...ictureid=87730
Looks to me like now pressure is forcing oil out every possible way from the pan (especially the rear main seal.) This didn't happen until I re plumbed the PCV system. Any opinions as to what's going on? I find it interesting that every bolt on the oil pan leaked oil EXCEPT the drain plug on the driver's side. Is this telling me anything other than it was torqued tighter than the others?
Last edited by Adis; 07-21-2011 at 08:01 AM.