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05 m6 c6 with a 402 stroke, d1 blower with front mounted intercooler and Meth injection.
My friend has been trying to chase down his overheating issue and so far has replaced
-upgraded radiator
-upgraded fans
-new water pump
-160 degree thermostat
The car is still getting up to 230 degrees....its driving my friend crazy...suggestions
05 m6 c6 with a 402 stroke, d1 blower with front mounted intercooler and Meth injection.
My friend has been trying to chase down his overheating issue and so far has replaced
-upgraded radiator
-upgraded fans
-new water pump
-160 degree thermostat
The car is still getting up to 230 degrees....its driving my friend crazy...suggestions
In what driving conditions is he seeing these temps?
You have to get the radiator to cool the coolant only. Trans and engine oil cooling must be kept seperate and out of the radiator. Use a 30/70 mix of coolant for summer time. Make adjustments to intercooler to make as much space between condensor and I/C as possible. With outside temps in the mid to upper 90's you will still have to cut a/c off when at a stop for more than 3 or 4 minutes so I reccomend putting a valve on your heater hose going into the heater core to keep the hot water out of the heater core. You can keep your air blowing in the car and just cut the compressor off. Air will stay cool for a liitle while with out the heater core being hot. Hope this helps.
Other things to try:
coat headers (high temp coating not regular jet hot coating)
Do not lower car. (the closer to the ground the fans can not push car under car)
Make sure BOV air flow is not fighting radiator fans (large s/c's push alot air at idle and when bov is installed behind fans they can cause static pressure and not allow fans to do there job.)
It was when he was driving at hwy speeds.....did the big bollas mod last night and that helped at highway speeds.
Its still getting up to 220 with the AC on (about 100 degrees outside) cruising. City driving it got back to about 230. I believe right now
-bov is directed towards fan
-headers are not wrapped
-running 50/50 with water wetter added
I guess those are the next things to change but would those make that big of a difference? We had it out last night with the AC on and did some spirited driving (about 75 degrees outside) o the hwy and it stayed right at 199 after the hard pulls
I had a very similar issue with one of my modified TT300zx after engine rebuild and turbo upgrades, I upgraded all cooling components spent bookoo $$$ including alu radiator and still no dice!! would run hot, cooling system pressure tester indicated no leaks what so ever, combustion Leak Test Kit indicated the head gaskets were fine. An older radiator specialist (wiser) gentlemen suggested changing the coolant tank or radiator cap and voila! it was the cap.. would not seal properly under pressure, thus letting air in the system, a $10 part drove me insane for nearly 2 months..